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Model S Plaid Track Package Waiting Room

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Dropped off at my local service center at 8am this morning. Advisor started off by saying we'll set you up with the loaner as requested, but it should be done in 3-4 hours... 🤨. I said sure it will.... Apparently I'm their first track pack install. The advisor assured me they were putting their senior most tech on the job. I'm expecting (hoping) 2-3 days and told them so. Of the four rotors, one had a "minor cracks" label. Nothing significant noted on physical inspection. Based on previous posts, my only real concern is underestimation of time to do the install. I have a track event for this coming Saturday.

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Well, getting the car back for the weekend is optimistic. When I dropped mine off the estimate was 1 week. It's officially a 10 hour job, but it was their first time installing the track package. It ended up taking 2.5 weeks for some unexpected reasons (ordering a new tire mounting machine, etc). The SC was great though, kept me updated on the progress and I had a M3P loaner the whole time.
 
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Dropped off at my local service center at 8am this morning. Advisor started off by saying we'll set you up with the loaner as requested, but it should be done in 3-4 hours... 🤨. I said sure it will.... Apparently I'm their first track pack install. The advisor assured me they were putting their senior most tech on the job. I'm expecting (hoping) 2-3 days and told them so. Of the four rotors, one had a "minor cracks" label. Nothing significant noted on physical inspection. Based on previous posts, my only real concern is underestimation of time to do the install. I have a track event for this coming Saturday.

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Looking at your profiles photo it appears you have a build prior to 3/22. So all knuckles will need to be replaced taking a bit more time. Also a alignment will be stacked into the service due to this.

If you have links DO NOT HAVE them align. Tesla mandatorily preforms a height optimization as part of every air suspension alignment, which has them measure from the alignment rack to four separate points on the chassis/battery and then they enter these values in Toolbox 3 which will electronically level the car back to factory height, regardless, if you have links. Just an FYI.
 
Looking at your profiles photo it appears you have a build prior to 3/22. So all knuckles will need to be replaced taking a bit more time. Also a alignment will be stacked into the service due to this.

If you have links DO NOT HAVE them align. Tesla mandatorily preforms a height optimization as part of every air suspension alignment, which has them measure from the alignment rack to four separate points on the chassis/battery and then they enter these values in Toolbox 3 which will electronically level the car back to factory height, regardless, if you have links. Just an FYI.
Understood - the knuckle availability has been why the install wasn't completed a month+ ago. They don't have alignment listed on the service estimate but I expected that would be needed. No suspension upgrades yet, so that shouldn't complicate things.

I did leave them with one of my winter wheels to test-fit (20x9's). I assume i'll be going shopping for a new set when the confirm they won't fit.
 
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While I am a bit dismayed at the three times my install has been rescheduled (four total appointments), I am happy that I am learning what to look out for, and the technicians in Charlotte NC are learning how to do a proper install on someone else's car. :)

There is usually a bright side if you look hard enough.

Joe
 
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You would think for 15k, Tesla would pony up a new DOT 4 brake fluid reservoir cap. Nope they leave the DOT 3 one in place.

I sourced a DOT 4 cap and replaced it myself.

The cap that fits is a GM Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap part #92457850. $5 at your GM service center.

The DOT 3 cap from the factory is a GM cap as well.
 

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You would think for 15k, Tesla would pony up a new DOT 4 brake fluid reservoir cap. Nope they leave the DOT 3 one in place.

I sourced a DOT 4 cap and replaced it myself.

The cap that fits is a GM Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap part #92457850. $5 at your GM service center.

The DOT 3 cap from the factory is a GM cap as well.

From my experience (including the near 10 year old unwashed, dirty interior model s loaner) Tesla tries to cut every corner they can to save a buck. Not surprised at all the dot 3 cap is left in place. I would want the new cap as well to ensure the fluids don’t get mixed in the future if a tech does a top off.

SC has delayed my pickup date another 7 days.
 
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You would think for 15k, Tesla would pony up a new DOT 4 brake fluid reservoir cap. Nope they leave the DOT 3 one in place.

I sourced a DOT 4 cap and replaced it myself.

The cap that fits is a GM Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap part #92457850. $5 at your GM service center.

The DOT 3 cap from the factory is a GM cap as well.
We were thinking along the same lines. I had ordered this one from Amazon to give it a try. It should be here either today or tomorrow.

 
Finally got my car back from the CCBK install. It took about a week from Fremont SC. I was told I was the first customer car. Wanted to share a few pics after swapping out the Arachnids and with the Signature wheels.

Wheel/Tire specs: Signature sv104, 21x10.5 (295/30/21) & 21x11.5 (315/30/21)
Suspension: N2ivitive links (-7,-8) /camber arms (-1.2 rear camber)

The rear wheel fitment was close. I have about ~ 6mm clearance.
 

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Understood - the knuckle availability has been why the install wasn't completed a month+ ago. They don't have alignment listed on the service estimate but I expected that would be needed. No suspension upgrades yet, so that shouldn't complicate things.

I did leave them with one of my winter wheels to test-fit (20x9's). I assume i'll be going shopping for a new set when the confirm they won't fit.
Was just notified that my car is ready to be picked up. They did the work in a little over a day. The car was brought into the service bay around 4pm Monday after an 8am drop-off. They gave me an update yesterday around 5pm (Tuesday) that the work was completed however they could only do part of the bedding in process due to a low state of charge on the car. I dropped it off at around 30% and the car mysteriously chewed through 19% between drop-off and when they started bedding-in late in the day. They hadn't had the car plugged in at all until after the first round of bedding-in left the car at 8%. After an overnight L2 charge they completed the bedding-in covering 27 miles and hitting 81mph at least once according the data logging service I use.

I'll probably repeat the vendor bedding in procedure myself on the way to the track early Saturday morning as I'll likely be the only car on the road when I head up.

One possible concern - there was no alignment listed on the service invoice. I thought one was required?

EDIT: Update received from the service center - alignment was done as part of the upgrade - it just wasn't explicitly listed in the work performed....

Concern: Model S Plaid Track Package

Performed Carbon Ceramic Brake Kit Retrofit onto vehicle. Removed and replaced all four knuckles,rotors, calipers, pads, and associated parts. Performed 5x Brake Fluid Flush with High Performancefluid. All fasteners torqued to spec. Updated vehicle configuration and reinstalled firmware.Performed test drive and multiple brake burnishing procedures. Brakes working as designed - ABSengages.


They also said my 20x9 winter wheel fit. They are Savini SVF5 20x9's. I wasn't expecting that pleasant surprise.
 
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They also said my 20x9 winter wheel fit. They are Savini SVF5 20x9's. I wasn't expecting that pleasant surprise.

I would still try it manually on the rear. The fronts usually has more clearance. My rear wheels are 11.5” width with 37mm offset. I had about ~6mm clearance. So 42mm offset wheel (depending on the curvature of the spokes) may contact the high spot of the rear caliper face.

The fronts can spin in jack mode freely but the rears won’t. This is what I did to make the rears spin freely.

1. Jack mode (add blocks to front wheels as it may roll forward)
2. Don’t close driver door but close the latch with your finger until it closes (it will click twice)
3. Sit in driver seat and attach seat belt behind you. (So later you csn step out of the car and belt is still attached)
4. Press brake and select Neutral. Blue light will confirm your in neutral.
5. Get out of the driver seat (seatbelt and door should still be latched)
6. Jack uo rear corner ( rear wheel should freely spin)
 
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Was just notified that my car is ready to be picked up. They did the work in a little over a day. The car was brought into the service bay around 4pm Monday after an 8am drop-off. They gave me an update yesterday around 5pm (Tuesday) that the work was completed however they could only do part of the bedding in process due to a low state of charge on the car. I dropped it off at around 30% and the car mysteriously chewed through 19% between drop-off and when they started bedding-in late in the day. They hadn't had the car plugged in at all until after the first round of bedding-in left the car at 8%. After an overnight L2 charge they completed the bedding-in covering 27 miles and hitting 81mph at least once according the data logging service I use.

I'll probably repeat the vendor bedding in procedure myself on the way to the track early Saturday morning as I'll likely be the only car on the road when I head up.

One possible concern - there was no alignment listed on the service invoice. I thought one was required?

EDIT: Update received from the service center - alignment was done as part of the upgrade - it just wasn't explicitly listed in the work performed....

Concern: Model S Plaid Track Package

Performed Carbon Ceramic Brake Kit Retrofit onto vehicle. Removed and replaced all four knuckles,rotors, calipers, pads, and associated parts. Performed 5x Brake Fluid Flush with High Performancefluid. All fasteners torqued to spec. Updated vehicle configuration and reinstalled firmware.Performed test drive and multiple brake burnishing procedures. Brakes working as designed - ABSengages.


They also said my 20x9 winter wheel fit. They are Savini SVF5 20x9's. I wasn't expecting that pleasant surprise.
Sounds like you got a good tech. I have been telling everyone how much brake fluid they send in order to get the proper bleed and pressures registered in the ABC module. Bleeding 5x is quite possibly what it takes. I believe mine had 4 bleedings to get the proper pressure registered.

Sounds also like they they did do a proper burnishing. More so than others have reported. As you will do, I also burnished mine per ST instructions which I posted here prior.
 
Tech confirmed he bled the lines five times. Also he did test the 20” wheel on both front and rear. I showed him the above post and he said I should be good.

Definitely will take some getting used to with the longer peddle travel. Car does subjectively feel a bit more nimble. Can’t really see how things feel given my ride home was in slow rush hour traffic.

The car feels complete- or at least much closer to it.

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Got to take a look at it before the wheels went on when I picked up the old parts today. Mentioned the reservoir cap issue to the tech. He said the BASF Hydraulan 406 ESI is DOT 5.1. Had trouble finding clear info from the manufacturer, but figure I'd pass along the info.
This would certainly suggest it.

Being 5.1 it is pretty hygroscopic and should be changed more often. In this case probably at least annually.

Motul 660 DOT 4 still has better dry/wet boiling points. I’ll change to Motul RBF 660 or Castrol SRF probably when I swap/full bleed next time.

Hydraulan 406 ESI:

Dry boiling point: 265 c
Wet boiling point: 180 c

Motul 660 (DOT4):

Dry boiling point: 325 c
Wet boiling point: 204 c

Castrol SRF (DOT4):

Dry boiling point: 320 c
Wet boiling point: 270 c

While Motul RBF 660 has an edge in a higher dry boiling point, Castrol SRF has a much larger advantage in wet boiling point which speaks to its longevity.
 

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