Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Model Y Mud Flaps (Rear Bolt Issue)

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Hi all,

I have read many of the threads regarding installing rear mud flaps and risk of breaking the rear bolt/nut assembly (and the tip to use oil penetrant - BTW what is the best one to use?)

I am wondering if the bolt breaking loose is still a current issue for newer Model Y vehicles or if Tesla caught on and improved the issue - for example cars delivered in the past several months?

I ordered the Basenor set from Amazon, but nervous to tackle the job since it seems the weld issue is hit or miss.

Any input appreciated!
 
I used WD-40. Sprayed some on …. Waited a bit ….. and started loosening the bolt. I used a socket wrench and went very slowly, deliberately, and firmly but smoothly. Whenever the resistance seemed to be increasing, I stopped and sprayed some more WD-40. Took my time …. Maybe 1/8-1/4 turn at a time. No problems.
 
I used WD-40. Sprayed some on …. Waited a bit ….. and started loosening the bolt. I used a socket wrench and went very slowly, deliberately, and firmly but smoothly. Whenever the resistance seemed to be increasing, I stopped and sprayed some more WD-40. Took my time …. Maybe 1/8-1/4 turn at a time. No problems.
I used a similar method and product without any problem.
 
Hi all,

I have read many of the threads regarding installing rear mud flaps and risk of breaking the rear bolt/nut assembly (and the tip to use oil penetrant - BTW what is the best one to use?)

I am wondering if the bolt breaking loose is still a current issue for newer Model Y vehicles or if Tesla caught on and improved the issue - for example cars delivered in the past several months?

I ordered the Basenor set from Amazon, but nervous to tackle the job since it seems the weld issue is hit or miss.

Any input appreciated!
I wouldn't worry too much about breaking the spot weld nut when trying to take the bolt out . I will say shame on Tesla for only spot welding the nut in one location - it would literally take another couple seconds during manufacturing to make another spot weld. Also in terms of penetrant - Kroil is king (will use PB Blaster in a pinch). I am a hobby machinist with several friends who work in the tool and die industry and we all swear by the stuff.

FWIW I broke one of the nuts on my car trying to install the Baesnor mud flaps and replaced it with a clip nut from the auto parts store, which was a super quick and easy fix:

1643158268155.png


I didn't like how rigid the Baesnor flaps were, especially when they would occasionally hit the ground going over speed bumps and steep driveways so I switched to Rally Armor, which are exponentially more expensive, but I think the product looks and performs much better.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: pepperoni
I wouldn't worry too much about breaking the spot weld nut when trying to take the bolt out . I will say shame on Tesla for only spot welding the nut in one location - it would literally take another couple seconds during manufacturing to make another spot weld. Also in terms of penetrant - Kroil is king (will use PB Blaster in a pinch). I am a hobby machinist with several friends who work in the tool and die industry and we all swear by the stuff.

FWIW I broke one of the nuts on my car trying to install the Baesnor mud flaps and replaced it with a clip nut from the auto parts store, which was a super quick and easy fix:

View attachment 760231

I didn't like how rigid the Baesnor flaps were, especially when they would occasionally hit the ground going over speed bumps and steep driveways so I switched to Rally Armor, which are exponentially more expensive, but I think the product looks and performs much better.
Thanks for the great info. Hmmm you’ve peaked my interest regarding rally armor. They’re different but maybe in a good way. My long range white MY is probably the most common one out there, so I’m not opposed to giving it a different look, especially if it is better performance.

I watched a quick video - does the rally armor install not involve that rear bolt?
 
Rally armor does not use the rear bolt - it uses expanding anchors and screws that replace the two fender liner push-in clips as well as three serrated steel clips that attach to the fender trim. Ill post some pictures of mine when I get a chance - I am very happy with them.
 
Rally armor does not use the rear bolt - it uses expanding anchors and screws that replace the two fender liner push-in clips as well as three serrated steel clips that attach to the fender trim. Ill post some pictures of mine when I get a chance - I am very happy with them.

Here's some photos. The Rally Armor flaps with the gray logo look killer on my MSM MYLR. The last pic shows how they attach inside the wheel well.

IMG_0403.jpg

IMG_0404.jpg

IMG_0405.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gaige and eCharcoal
Here’s the thread that goes through each step:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firocity
Here's some photos. The Rally Armor flaps with the gray logo look killer on my MSM MYLR. The last pic shows how they attach inside the wheel well.

View attachment 760511
View attachment 760512
View attachment 760513
Finally someone posts a MSM with the grey flaps with the added bonus of the the YELLOW HOV sticker, I have definitely considered the grey rally armor flaps. Currently running Tesla front flaps with basenor clones in the back. I might end up getting the rally armor ones.. which store did you use to get them?
 
Aren’t those off-road tires? Do you happen to have pictures of the car? That looks quite cool! I guess efficiencies dropped a bit?
Yes - they are Falken Wildpeak AT Trails on 18" wheels. My reported efficiency dropped from about 280 Wh/mi to about 305 Wh/mi (about a 9% drop), but this doesn't account for the fact that the tires are 1" larger than stock diameter, so actual efficiency is probably somewhere around 300 Wh/mi. I also added a roof rack and wind fairing right around the same time, so that probably caused a 1-2% hit in efficiency as well. Honestly, the efficiency tradeoff for the taller sidewall and better overall comfort was totally worth it IMO, plus I will be invincible in rain and snow.

Tesla_Y_IRWD.jpg
 
Last edited:
Yes - they are Falken Wildpeak AT Trails on 18" wheels. My reported efficiency dropped from about 280 Wh/mi to about 305 Wh/mi (about a 9% drop), but this doesn't account for the fact that the tires are 1" larger than stock diameter, so actual efficiency is probably somewhere around 300 Wh/mi. I also added a roof rack and wind fairing right around the same time, so that probably caused a 1-2% hit in efficiency as well. Honestly, the efficiency tradeoff for the taller sidewall and better overall comfort was totally worth it IMO, plus I will be invincible in rain and snow.

View attachment 760902
I must say it looks pretty badass.
 
Hi all,

I have read many of the threads regarding installing rear mud flaps and risk of breaking the rear bolt/nut assembly (and the tip to use oil penetrant - BTW what is the best one to use?)

I am wondering if the bolt breaking loose is still a current issue for newer Model Y vehicles or if Tesla caught on and improved the issue - for example cars delivered in the past several months?

I ordered the Basenor set from Amazon, but nervous to tackle the job since it seems the weld issue is hit or miss.

Any input appreciated!
I didn’t have a problem removing and reinstalling on 2021 MY.
 
I made my life easy.
slightly turned the screw so I have SOME wiggle room (lefty loosey but after a certain point it becomes TIGHTER.. when this happens STOP)
Snipped the mud flaps
Slipped it under the screw
Added a touch of https://amzn.to/3gjHKzi
Screwed it back up and done

I tried the wd40 method and for some reason it didn't work for me so I gave up on that

25k miles and no issues with the basenor mud flaps

rpm mud flaps sucked.. one broke and they didn't want to stand by their guarantee so I won't be shopping there anymore
 
Yes - they are Falken Wildpeak AT Trails on 18" wheels. My reported efficiency dropped from about 280 Wh/mi to about 305 Wh/mi (about a 9% drop), but this doesn't account for the fact that the tires are 1" larger than stock diameter, so actual efficiency is probably somewhere around 300 Wh/mi. I also added a roof rack and wind fairing right around the same time, so that probably caused a 1-2% hit in efficiency as well. Honestly, the efficiency tradeoff for the taller sidewall and better overall comfort was totally worth it IMO, plus I will be invincible in rain and snow.

View attachment 760902
Awesome. What's the exact rim (width, offset) and tire size? And do you have the part # handy for the Yakima fairing? I'm really diggin the look man.