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Modified LR vs Performance

From my search I have seen similar threads but nothing that answers my specific questions.

I am shopping and getting ready to pull the trigger to replace my daily driver and weekend warrior track car in one fun package. I will be performing all of the physical modifications so the cost of changing parts isn't part of my decision here.
I don't have a local Tesla dealer/service center to flash or program any of the vehicle so that is part of my considerations.

Currently commute 50 miles each way for work and no charging capability while at work, with the occasional trip leaving from work so range is considered but not the end all. At initial purchase I plan to stay pretty basic with options other than FSD as I don't want to pay extra for things that I will eventually change. I don't really care about the small difference for the Boost 0-60 and the M3P 0-60 as I am not drag racing.

If I go with the LR then I will very soon after purchase, upgrade suspension(coilovers)/brakes/wheels and tires/Boost etc. to make it more what I am looking for. Looking to aftermarket for many of the changes or using Performance model take offs.

Or does the M3P have options that can not be matched on the LR?

I understand that for many it boils down to personal preference, mainly I am looking for things that can or can't be matched or changed on the LR to get similar performance without the upfront cost of going M3P.
 
The big difference will be Track Mode on the M3P. This will let you fine tune in ways you can't on the LR. As far as aftermarket options, buyer beware as you are trying to sideload things to a computer on wheels. If you are not concerned about possibly voiding your warranty then you could do something like that.

From what you've posted though, it looks like the M3P would be the way to go to meet all of your needs.
 
If you're actually planning to track the car, then go with the Performance for Track Mode. If it's staying on the street, I'd choose the Long Range. You can also use the Ingenext Boost 50 module to get the "acceleration boost" plus a mode that allows you to disable traction control (not as feature-rich as Tesla's Track Mode), but that will void your warranty and it could cause you trouble with Tesla down the road: BOOST 50 FOR TESLA MODEL 3
 
I would try to find a very lightly used Performance without the PUP. Commonly referred to as a stealth performance or a P3D-. Then modify that. I'd tell you to buy a new one but you can't anymore, and in the end, they didn't give you a discount for doing so.

If you really want to track, lightweight wheels, better suspension and better brake pads will go a long way. And will be WAY better than what Tesla includes. But you really do want track mode and the better performance of the, well, performance.
 
Given your objectives regarding any significant differences, I'd mainly consider Track Mode, and to some degree, the possibility of performance-oriented updates in the future, which Tesla decides to cook up.

Other than that, if you can save some $ and suit your needs, either variant will do the job, and it sounds like you want to tinker. Only other thing I'd consider, is if you want things integrated.
 
Maybe we can get a better idea on perspective if you tell us what your current daily driver and weekend warrior is.

Currently daily a ZHP e46 330i and track car is an LS swapped pro am prepped 240sx. I don't plan to drift this car, mainly looking into HPDE/SCCA track days and maybe some autocross.

If you're actually planning to track the car, then go with the Performance for Track Mode. If it's staying on the street, I'd choose the Long Range. You can also use the Ingenext Boost 50 module to get the "acceleration boost" plus a mode that allows you to disable traction control (not as feature-rich as Tesla's Track Mode), but that will void your warranty and it could cause you trouble with Tesla down the road: BOOST 50 FOR TESLA MODEL 3

I am definitely not wanting to void my warranty. The warranty is what helps me decide to make the switch from ICE.

I would try to find a very lightly used Performance without the PUP. Commonly referred to as a stealth performance or a P3D-. Then modify that. I'd tell you to buy a new one but you can't anymore, and in the end, they didn't give you a discount for doing so......

I love the idea of the M3P and convincing the budget side is the harder part.

Given your objectives regarding any significant differences, I'd mainly consider Track Mode, and to some degree, the possibility of performance-oriented updates in the future, which Tesla decides to cook up.

Other than that, if you can save some $ and suit your needs, either variant will do the job, and it sounds like you want to tinker. Only other thing I'd consider, is if you want things integrated.

I love building "My cars" while getting everything that I want, although the track mode seems to be the make it or break it part here. Personally I don't like the wheels and I would prefer nice adjustable coilovers instead of just lowering springs of the M3P so I was leaning towards not getting it as I hate the high price tag for things that I would swap out anyway.
 
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I love building "My cars" while getting everything that I want, although the track mode seems to be the make it or break it part here. Personally I don't like the wheels and I would prefer nice adjustable coilovers instead of just lowering springs of the M3P so I was leaning towards not getting it as I hate the high price tag for things that I would swap out anyway.

Yes, Track Mode is really the dealbreaker. I'm with you on all the stock wheel and suspension parts on the Performance. They're not worth anything because they'll be replaced anyway by anyone serious about handling and performance on the track. It's sad that we can't get Stealth Performance 3s anymore, though they also cost just as much as the Performance when they were offered (if I remember correctly). Anyway, since it does sound like taking it to the track is something you definitely are going to do and you don't want to mess with warranty-voiding hacks, I think the Performance is your best option. As pg62 said, I would skip the FSD, especially if cost is a concern at all.

If only Tesla offered Track Mode as a software unlock... :)
 
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Yes, Track Mode is really the dealbreaker. I'm with you on all the stock wheel and suspension parts on the Performance. They're not worth anything because they'll be replaced anyway by anyone serious about handling and performance on the track. It's sad that we can't get Stealth Performance 3s anymore, though they also cost just as much as the Performance when they were offered (if I remember correctly). Anyway, since it does sound like taking it to the track is something you definitely are going to do and you don't want to mess with warranty-voiding hacks, I think the Performance is your best option. As pg62 said, I would skip the FSD, especially if cost is a concern at all.

If only Tesla offered Track Mode as a software unlock... :)

In Australia for the first 2 months the stealth performance was same price as the AWD but you werent able to order the AWD.
to get the proper performance you had to buy a performance package. After 2 months they removed the stealth performance and replaced it with the AWD for the same price!
 
Probably & might shows that actually, you don't know. Best to show facts to back up your post.

it comes from experience. The same canyons I drive was fine on the first time I drove it hard but on a hot day, it pared back the power until I stopped the car and put it in Track Mode. Depends on how hot the day is. If you have a Performance model, go test it out. Track Mode puts the compressor into overdrive and you can hear it...its loud as hell.
 
Yes, Track Mode is really the dealbreaker. I'm with you on all the stock wheel and suspension parts on the Performance. They're not worth anything because they'll be replaced anyway by anyone serious about handling and performance on the track. It's sad that we can't get Stealth Performance 3s anymore, though they also cost just as much as the Performance when they were offered (if I remember correctly). Anyway, since it does sound like taking it to the track is something you definitely are going to do and you don't want to mess with warranty-voiding hacks, I think the Performance is your best option. As pg62 said, I would skip the FSD, especially if cost is a concern at all.

If only Tesla offered Track Mode as a software unlock... :)

The more I think about it, the more I lean towards M3P and selling off the stock wheels.
If I were to go LR then add Boost, proper suspension, wheel/tire combo and whatever else I wanted right off, I would be close to the M3P price and have Track Mode.


Thanks everyone for adding perspective. With my new position at work and working hard to get finances going the right way for retirement, I can finally look to pulling the trigger and the insight has help me greatly.
 

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