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MountainPass Performance Comfort Coilovers

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I've come to the conclusion that no damper/spring combination can overcome the harshness of the short/stiff sidewall of the OEM tires. Vehicle weight demands the integrity of the sidewall.
Your conclusion is flawed. I run the 21” Uberturbines with the MPP coils on my MYP. The ride is better than a LR Model Y with 19” Geminis in our family. Far less crashy, significantly more supple, no more dive and squat under braking and acceleration. While tire sidewall certainly plays a role in comfort, I believe the dampers on the MY are the primary culprit.
 
buddalun: I'm mentioning the tire slap. I have no issues with dive/squat or "crashy" with the MPP coilovers.

Where do you live? Do you have broken concrete slabs with regular uneven expansion cracks? There's no way your 21"s, with short sidewalls, are NOT going to slap/thunk when driving over broken pavement.
 
buddalun: I'm mentioning the tire slap. I have no issues with dive/squat or "crashy" with the MPP coilovers.

Where do you live? Do you have broken concrete slabs with regular uneven expansion cracks? There's no way your 21"s, with short sidewalls, are NOT going to slap/thunk when driving over broken pavement.
Tire slap? I’m not sure what you’re referring to nor did you mention that in your post I originally quoted. We have awful roads in Portland as it rains 70% of the year and there is little to no maintenance. The potholes are big enough to lose a child in.

buddalun: I'm mentioning the tire slap. I have no issues with dive/squat or "crashy" with the MPP coilovers.

Where do you live? Do you have broken concrete slabs with regular uneven expansion cracks? There's no way your 21"s, with short sidewalls, are NOT going to slap/thunk when driving over broken pavement.
I’m curious, do you have the MPP Comfort Coilovers installed on your MY?
 
buddalun: Yes, I've got maybe 5k miles on them. Played around a bit with settings, tire PSI, finally arrived at F: 13/8, R: 13/8. (Compression/Rebound) This seems to be the best compromise for my region, especially the rather large uneven concrete heaves that I have to drive on to/from my house, and on my short (3.5 mile) commute.

The "slap", as I call it, is the harsh feel when the tires encounter a 2"-3" concrete lip between slabs. The stiff sidewall just can't compress as much as the taller sidewall and lower weight rating of our Avalon, and the various other cars I've owned. If I dial in softer compression, I think I'm at risk of too much dive/squat.

I hope that makes sense.
 
buddalun: Yes, I've got maybe 5k miles on them. Played around a bit with settings, tire PSI, finally arrived at F: 13/8, R: 13/8. (Compression/Rebound) This seems to be the best compromise for my region, especially the rather large uneven concrete heaves that I have to drive on to/from my house, and on my short (3.5 mile) commute.

The "slap", as I call it, is the harsh feel when the tires encounter a 2"-3" concrete lip between slabs. The stiff sidewall just can't compress as much as the taller sidewall and lower weight rating of our Avalon, and the various other cars I've owned. If I dial in softer compression, I think I'm at risk of too much dive/squat.

I hope that makes sense.

Those rebound numbers are probably set too firm for normal driving. In my experience anything 9 or lower number for rebound will cause the car to be too firm against rough road and especially upset (significant side-to-side impacts) on paver stone streets. The compression of 13 is fine and eliminates most road texture and grain transmitted to cabin.

I’m on 42 psi on the 21” ubers, which allows the MPP suspension to really do most of the damping work instead of squishy tires, and provides great steering feel/response.

I drove through downtown PDX on my summer settings of these with my family and it was tolerable but should have set softer for those roads:

front 11/11 (compression/rebound turns from full stiff)
rear 10/9 (compression/rebound turns from full stiff)

On the round trip from Seattle it was perfect, but too firm for those Portland streets.

I’m currently at these settings and very satisfied for the colder months where the tires (Michelin PS AS4) and perhaps the suspension components are less soft and transmit more noise/energy to the cabin (if kept to the summer settings):

front 13/12 (compression/rebound turns from full stiff)
rear 12/10 (compression/rebound turns from full stiff)
 
Anyone interested in brand new MPP Model Y Comfort Adjustable Coilovers? locally? Seattle area.
I just received my set (brand new still in box)after waiting for 8 weeks for them to be built, and no longer plan to install them on my model Y.
coilovers: https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/.../modely.../
camber arms: https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/product/tm3-ruca/
If you are interested in getting them without the specified wait time from MPP, please PM me. The box is heavy, would prefer to meet locally.
 
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Anyone interested in brand new MPP Model Y Comfort Adjustable Coilovers? locally? Seattle area.
I just received my set (brand new still in box)after waiting for 8 weeks for them to be built, and no longer plan to install them on my model Y.
coilovers: https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/.../modely.../
camber arms: https://www.mountainpassperformance.com/product/tm3-ruca/
If you are interested in getting them without the specified wait time from MPP, please PM me. The box is heavy, would prefer to meet locally.
What made you change your mind?
 
Nice! I'd love a Rivian but it's too big for where I currently live. Have you gone by their shop in Bellevue yet? When are you scheduled to take delivery?
I currently own a diesel truck, so it will be a nice change. The goal is to have a 2 for 1. get rid of the diesel and the Y for 1 rivian truck. Haven't been by the Bellevue store recently, last time I was there it was still empty. I received a guide so the process is rolling, since there is not much info out there I am not quite sure what the time line is, assuming in the next month or so.
 
gundarx: Thanks for the recommendation. My thinking on the rebound was to eliminate what I call "porpoising", when the road heaves cause the car to bound/dive. The height of the high and low points of the concrete can really set up some uncontrollable flopping. Feels like the car needs another 6" of wheelbase.
 
I've read through this entire thread and am hoping you guys can confirm something for me. If I install the comfort coilovers on my car, and lower it say 1", I cannot do so without messing up the camber. Is that correct? I would have to buy other parts, like camber arms? And if so, does that take care of the problem completely?

Being in FL I'm not real sure I can find someone who I trust to do it, but maybe MPP knows someone. This is a bit out of my league for DIY and I don't have all the tools.
 
I've read through this entire thread and am hoping you guys can confirm something for me. If I install the comfort coilovers on my car, and lower it say 1", I cannot do so without messing up the camber. Is that correct? I would have to buy other parts, like camber arms? And if so, does that take care of the problem completely?

Being in FL I'm not real sure I can find someone who I trust to do it, but maybe MPP knows someone. This is a bit out of my league for DIY and I don't have all the tools.
Stay with the standard ride height, or thereabout, particularly if you're not experienced with having suspension work done. The springs will settle a little after installation, so your ride height will adjust. Going down 25mm / 1 inch might get you into a need for additional hardware if the camber can't be setup well.
 
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I've read through this entire thread and am hoping you guys can confirm something for me. If I install the comfort coilovers on my car, and lower it say 1", I cannot do so without messing up the camber. Is that correct? I would have to buy other parts, like camber arms? And if so, does that take care of the problem completely?

Being in FL I'm not real sure I can find someone who I trust to do it, but maybe MPP knows someone. This is a bit out of my league for DIY and I don't have all the tools.
You will definitely need rear camber arms, maybe rear toe arms too. Lowering it that much may also cause problems with speed bumps and speed calming areas. Email or call your coilover supplier and they will generally help you through your purpose.

I don't know where in Florida you are, but checkout the Electrified Garage, 1829 NW 10th St, Ocala, FL 34475 for the work you might need. They seem to do service in West Palm Beach as well.
 
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If you lower 1", you will need camber arms in the rear and you can get it back to stock alignment. For the front, you'll end up with ~1 degree negative camber beyond the recommended amount. To fix that in the front, you will need the MPP control arms. I chose to just leave it with the neg camber and monitor tire wear. It's a pretty small amount and so far, I've not noticed any strange tire wear.
 
Thanks all of you for the info. Ocala is drivable so that's awesome, I actually stopped at the Supercharger there recently on the way back from Atlanta. I recently joined the FL Tesla club and did think about asking them for references.

@Ruffles I noticed in your signature you dropped one inch - looking at your car I thought it a bit more. 1" is pretty dramatic then. I'm just looking to soak up a little of that space between the tire and fender. BTW, thanks for doing the homework on the SV503, I think your fitment is perfect. Sooooo, I ordered the same spec from Jaime yesterday, but in brushed titanium. (literally, "same as Ruffles!")
 
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We have a brand new set of MPP Comfort Coilovers for Model Y that's ready to ship with no wait times.
A client who originally ordered this had his car order switched from Model Y to a Model 3 before taking delivery.
Pickup in SoCal available.

Please message if interested.
Plenty can vouch for us on here.



Thanks,
Danny
 
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gundarx: Thanks for the recommendation. My thinking on the rebound was to eliminate what I call "porpoising", when the road heaves cause the car to bound/dive. The height of the high and low points of the concrete can really set up some uncontrollable flopping. Feels like the car needs another 6" of wheelbase.
I pored over this thread front to back and have a specific question that perhaps you can answer:

Did the coilover kit eliminate or reduce this on your Y? Finally took a test drive yesterday and experienced exactly this - porpoising/bucking - on a specific section of I-5 north of downtown Seattle that has plagued various vehicles of mine for years. It used to be a lot more of I-5 paved thusly but they've rebuilt most of those old sections. Anyhow, none of my current vehicles display this same behavior, it transported me to a time when my primary vehicle was a 2 door Jeep with a short wheelbase. The MYLR with 20" Inductions bucked like the Jeep, but with harsher impact, it really took me aback because the car was otherwise quite well behaved on a variety of other surface streets, highway and freeway sections.

It's not a dealbreaker, but if there is a solution to soften the ride a bit and still have the Y maintain its other handling characteristics (not get sloppy), I'd be keen to hear it. Perhaps the suspension is quite taut on a new/low miles Y and it will soften a bit with more miles as well (didn't happen to catch mileage on the demo unit).
 
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