Here the side view on a set of aftermarket Forged wheels with a 14mm offset ... no spacers needed
View attachment 292677
Do you get rubbing?
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Do you get rubbing?
Adding spacers will make the wheel stick out more. The opposite of what you want to do.
Check out https://www.willtheyfit.com/index.p...2=45&wheel_size=19&wheel_width=8-5&offset2=30 and enter different wheel sizes and offsets to see how it affects one another.
Thanks for the link, helps me out. sorry Newb here
I just thought I needed the tire to stick out more so it wouldn't rub the wheel liner which is why I thought spacers
Both. As others have stated, adding spacers prob won’t help you. Depending on how bad you’re rubbing, you may be able to heat the liner up and push on it to buy yourself a few precious millimeters. Or just not go full lock when reversing and live with the slight rubbing.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
I believe the offset on the FRONT wheels is +30 or 35 mm for all of the OEM wheels. IIRC, the rears are +40 to clear the strut tower.
So, with that said, if you're rubbing on the outer side of the wheel well when reversing, spacers would make things worse, because you're making the "swing" of the wheel wider when you turn. As in, the edge of the tire is even farther from the hub.
I have 22's on my car and experienced rubbing when I reverse at full lock as well. I found that the tire was catching the little plastic fins on the front of the wheel well in reverse, causing the rubbing noise.
From a mechanical standpoint, this is a minor deal, but the noise is irritating. So, my plan is to grab an X-Acto Knife and just cut out the little fins that the tire rubs against. The fins aren't structural, and a few cut out won't be missed. That will eliminate the tire catching on the liner, which will stop the rubbing noise in reverse.
So, after aaaaall of that, the main reason that folks get spacers for Teslas is that the factory wheels sit about 20mm inbore in the wheel well, which makes it look like it skips leg day. It's purely cosmetic. If you like the "flush" look of wheels that sit right at the edge of the fenders (I certainly do), then spacers will fix that. If you don't care, then don't get spacers.
The only trouble with spacers is that they 1) MUST be hubcentric, or you'll get vibrations, and 2) will significantly exaserbate any existing vibrations you already have. Just something to consider. I used to have 20mm spacers on my OEM 21" turbines, but had issues with vibrations and took them off. Now I have aftermarket 22s with the proper offset to look good.
I believe the offset on the FRONT wheels is +30 or 35 mm for all of the OEM wheels. IIRC, the rears are +40 to clear the strut tower.
So, with that said, if you're rubbing on the outer side of the wheel well when reversing, spacers would make things worse, because you're making the "swing" of the wheel wider when you turn. As in, the edge of the tire is even farther from the hub.
I have 22's on my car and experienced rubbing when I reverse at full lock as well. I found that the tire was catching the little plastic fins on the front of the wheel well in reverse, causing the rubbing noise.
From a mechanical standpoint, this is a minor deal, but the noise is irritating. So, my plan is to grab an X-Acto Knife and just cut out the little fins that the tire rubs against. The fins aren't structural, and a few cut out won't be missed. That will eliminate the tire catching on the liner, which will stop the rubbing noise in reverse.
So, after aaaaall of that, the main reason that folks get spacers for Teslas is that the factory wheels sit about 20mm inbore in the wheel well, which makes it look like it skips leg day. It's purely cosmetic. If you like the "flush" look of wheels that sit right at the edge of the fenders (I certainly do), then spacers will fix that. If you don't care, then don't get spacers.
The only trouble with spacers is that they 1) MUST be hubcentric, or you'll get vibrations, and 2) will significantly exaserbate any existing vibrations you already have. Just something to consider. I used to have 20mm spacers on my OEM 21" turbines, but had issues with vibrations and took them off. Now I have aftermarket 22s with the proper offset to look good.
View attachment 496502
thanks for the info. I’ve tried the heat gun also but doesn’t help. I talked to the shop I got the wheels from and they have in house machining; so we’re planning to shave down the hub some to go from 30mm to 38mm on the offset. this should almost solve the problem for sure since oem is 40mm
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Resolved the problem today following the Russell method. Turns out I didn't need to cut out the whole fin out, just shave it down a bit. I don't have a "real" dremel, so......I used my dog's rotary nail trimmer. The wheel liner is super soft rubber, so it came off with no problem. I then cleaned up the edges with an X-Acto knife and a bit of sandpaper.
I shaved off about 1/4" from about 5 of the fins, and now no more rubbing, period! Structural integrity of the fender liner is fine, and there's no loss of functionality.
I shaved off about 1/4" from about 5 of the fins, and now no more rubbing, period! Structural integrity of the fender liner is fine, and there's no loss of functionality.
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I run them on all my rims except one set. Btw that set is 10” front 11” rear so no need lol
I believe the offset on the FRONT wheels is +30 or 35 mm for all of the OEM wheels. IIRC, the rears are +40 to clear the strut tower.
So, with that said, if you're rubbing on the outer side of the wheel well when reversing, spacers would make things worse, because you're making the "swing" of the wheel wider when you turn. As in, the edge of the tire is even farther from the hub.
I have 22's on my car and experienced rubbing when I reverse at full lock as well. I found that the tire was catching the little plastic fins on the front of the wheel well in reverse, causing the rubbing noise.
From a mechanical standpoint, this is a minor deal, but the noise is irritating. So, my plan is to grab an X-Acto Knife and just cut out the little fins that the tire rubs against. The fins aren't structural, and a few cut out won't be missed. That will eliminate the tire catching on the liner, which will stop the rubbing noise in reverse.
So, after aaaaall of that, the main reason that folks get spacers for Teslas is that the factory wheels sit about 20mm inbore in the wheel well, which makes it look like it skips leg day. It's purely cosmetic. If you like the "flush" look of wheels that sit right at the edge of the fenders (I certainly do), then spacers will fix that. If you don't care, then don't get spacers.
The only trouble with spacers is that they 1) MUST be hubcentric, or you'll get vibrations, and 2) will significantly exaserbate any existing vibrations you already have. Just something to consider. I used to have 20mm spacers on my OEM 21" turbines, but had issues with vibrations and took them off. Now I have aftermarket 22s with the proper offset to look good.
View attachment 496502
If you get the right spacers/adapters they are fine. If you get adapters they come with studs and will change the offset. The problem with spacers is that you need to make sure it has a extended center bore or 5mm is the largest you can use. That’s what will cause vibration and could bend you studs since the rim isn’t fully mounted on the center bore. I run both spacers and adapters on all my rims. No issues
Not true adding spacers can stop rubbing or it can start rubbing it all depends on the offset and the type of spacers
These are 10 inch wide front rims and 11 inch wide rear rims. Front has 5mm pacer the tears have nothing
I believe the offset on the FRONT wheels is +30 or 35 mm for all of the OEM wheels. IIRC, the rears are +40 to clear the strut tower.
So, with that said, if you're rubbing on the outer side of the wheel well when reversing, spacers would make things worse, because you're making the "swing" of the wheel wider when you turn. As in, the edge of the tire is even farther from the hub.
I have 22's on my car and experienced rubbing when I reverse at full lock as well. I found that the tire was catching the little plastic fins on the front of the wheel well in reverse, causing the rubbing noise.
From a mechanical standpoint, this is a minor deal, but the noise is irritating. So, my plan is to grab an X-Acto Knife and just cut out the little fins that the tire rubs against. The fins aren't structural, and a few cut out won't be missed. That will eliminate the tire catching on the liner, which will stop the rubbing noise in reverse.
So, after aaaaall of that, the main reason that folks get spacers for Teslas is that the factory wheels sit about 20mm inbore in the wheel well, which makes it look like it skips leg day. It's purely cosmetic. If you like the "flush" look of wheels that sit right at the edge of the fenders (I certainly do), then spacers will fix that. If you don't care, then don't get spacers.
The only trouble with spacers is that they 1) MUST be hubcentric, or you'll get vibrations, and 2) will significantly exaserbate any existing vibrations you already have. Just something to consider. I used to have 20mm spacers on my OEM 21" turbines, but had issues with vibrations and took them off. Now I have aftermarket 22s with the proper offset to look good.
View attachment 496502
What's the offset on your 22s?
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
I have to imagine you rub like crazy in the front. I had my last set of wheels set flush with the fender (factory turbines @ + 30, add a 20mm spacer), and it started rubbing at 1/4 turn of the front wheel and got worse from there.
Actually doesn’t rub at all surprisingly. It’s because my rims are deep dish. Meaning they have a large lip which is the style I actually like more but that style faded and now most rims have no or hardly any lip. The rears don’t even need spacers. Neither rub at all. I will be adding larger spacers not adapters cuz I am going to be adding fender flares and want the rims flush with them. I like the flush look much more than it sitting inside. It also makes your car look lower when it’s flush. However it can end up bottoming out a lot easier since you don’t get all the extra space under the wheel well.
It does rub if I use adapters cuz it throws off the offset.
You can see it actually still sits slightly inside compared to the rears
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Aggmeister2010
Active Member
So I have 19 x 8.5 square setup with 30mm offset front and back. Heat gun didn't work for me so may have to do what you did. Have pics of how the final vents looked like?
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