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MS P85D wheel spacers?

Discussion in 'Model S' started by M4guy, Feb 5, 2018.

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  1. kingleonidas

    kingleonidas Member

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    I went with Design 3. Am I correct in my understanding that I will not need new lugs? I'm pretty handy, but thankfully I have a friend who's a mechanic helping me to install.

    Thanks for the link, brilliant! I guess we'll have to see how everything looks once they're on... hopefully the rears aren't too out of proportion.
     
  2. Doanster1

    Doanster1 Member

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    You should be fine then. I think others also asked Lenny to send steel lugs vs aluminum.
    Installing spacers is not daunting. All you’re doomg is putting a plate between the hub and the wheel.
     
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  3. kingleonidas

    kingleonidas Member

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    Thank you much. Yeah, I figured as much... can't be any more of a pain in the ass then the serpentine pulley I just replaced on my backup car, a 1999 VW Passat GL6 w/ 306K miles. $50 bucks and back on the road! ;)

    Aside from the exaggerated aesthetic w/ 19's... is there any potential for tire/fender contact with 25 in the rear?

    Also, I just now considered to ask this; are the 21" turbines also 8" wide? In other words, would I need to consider a different tire width when I swap summer/winter wheels?
     
  4. Doanster1

    Doanster1 Member

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    Should have no issues with rubbing unless you slammed the car with lowering links or something.

    Stock Turbines are 21x8.5 for a squared setup or 21x9 in the rear for staggered. Tires would be 245/35/21 square or 265/35/21 in the rear for staggered. I run 275 just fine on my 20s. Def need to do some homework if you go this route to ensure no rubbing. The rear fender liners are “warped” so I had to pin them back via zip ties.
     
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  5. FlatSix911

    FlatSix911 918 Hybrid

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    I run a 14mm ET offset in the rear with 19x9 OEM Forged BMW 6 Series wheels ... absolutely no issues :cool:

    249 Wheel.jpg
     
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  6. kingleonidas

    kingleonidas Member

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    I've installed the motorsport tech Design 3 spacers, and they've worked out great so far.

    One question though... if I needed to re-torque down the wheel lug nuts after about 100 miles, would it stand to reason that I also need to re-torque the spacers themselves to the hub, to ensure they are still at the 129 spec, since (with this type of spacer) this is a separate connection to the hub?
     
  7. davidc18

    davidc18 Active Member

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    yes
     
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  8. Dameon

    Dameon Titanium P90DL

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    10K Mile Update on the Motortech spacers:

    No significant problems to report... yet. When I swap my tires (i.e. replace due to wear) every 10K miles, I check the spacers. I live in Southern LA (not L.A.), so no snow or salt. I noticed a couple of my spacer bolt head are looking puny...

    TeslaSpacer.jpg

    I'm not sure how far this oxidation will go, but hopefully not to a part failure point. I'll be watching it. I'm also not sure what all the "goober" is on the surface. I clean it with Simple Green, but it keeps returning.

    People have asked about fender rubbing. With the factory Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 21", they rub very slightly on a near full lock steer in both directions...

    TeslaRubbing.jpg

    I'm still running the Michelin's in front. I've replaced the rear with Falken's this go-round and have noticed they have a slightly taller profile despite being the exact same 265/35R21 (about 3.65 inches tall) measurement. I know this because there is a specific spot (spots) on I-10 between Lafayette and Baton Rouge, that I frequent, that cause the car to "bottom out" the suspension at 70 mph. With the Michelin's in the rear, and the suspension on auto-lowering at 70 mph, those areas were never a problem. With the Falken's, they are a consistent problem. In my years as a "car guy", I know different tire manufacturers can have different profiles (rounded vs. squared) despite a consistent sidewall measurement.

    As an additional note, people have voiced concern (myself included) about the metal quality of the Motortech supplied lug nuts. Here is a comparison....

    TeslaLugNuts.jpg

    Yes, I used the proper size socket on the nuts. Part of the problem is the depth of the nut and the flange close to the collar. There just isn't enough nut to grab. I torque to 130 specifically, so it isn't because of attempting to over torque.
     
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  9. rooter

    rooter Member

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    Looks like no more snow chains with spacers.

    So I guess I'm out.
     
  10. Dameon

    Dameon Titanium P90DL

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    You might be able to get away with chains and spacers on higher suspension settings, which would likely be a better choice in snow and ice anyway.

    Or you could keep your spacers with your summer tires and change them out when you put your winter tires on.
     
  11. heinzcatsoup

    heinzcatsoup Member

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    i'm rubbing as well on a near full lock steer, but mine sounds pretty rough, maybe my tires are too new? do you think if i get a smaller spacer it would stop rubbing?
     
  12. Dameon

    Dameon Titanium P90DL

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    Unlikely. Without a spacer, turn your wheels and look at the clearance... it's very close with no spacer.

    I would think some enterprising vendor would create an "anti-rubbing inner fender" for sale. A quick visual inspection gives me the impression that isn't a big piece of plastic. It looks like it comes out "easy" and could be easily replaced. It doesn't appear to have significant purpose aside from cooling ducts for the brakes.
     
  13. Doanster1

    Doanster1 Member

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    Scrub patch is really small for me. Only under close to full lock AND on an incline (my driveway).
    So now I just don’t turn the wheel as much or just creep when backing into my garage. 245/40/20 fronts.
     

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  14. Dameon

    Dameon Titanium P90DL

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    Mine is only slightly larger and on flat surfaces or otherwise.

    40% of 245mm is 98mm or about 3.9". The radius of a 20" wheel should be about 10" plus the 3.9" height of the tire, so 13.9" between the center of the hub and the inner fender. This doesn't account for the width of the tire (about 9.6") and how that changes the dynamics of contact.

    On a 245/45-21 tire, the numbers tell a different story. 45% of 245mm is 4.4". The radius of a 21" wheel should be about 10.5" plus the 4.4" height of the tire, so 14.9"... almost an inch more! The tire width is the same, so the same dynamics would apply.

    I'm actually surprised the 20" rubs. What brand of tire are you running? Different manufacturers have different tire profiles. I can see the difference in the profile of the Michelin Pilot Super Sports (more squared) vs. the Falken FK510s (more rounded).
     
  15. Doanster1

    Doanster1 Member

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    We are very similar wrt to data. I calculated everything out before I pulled the trigger on my current setup. To be exact, it’s 704mm total, giving you 352mm or your 13.86” number. :)
    The front wheels are +35mm offset so maybe that lines up the tire (FK510, btw) just right up with a “higher” part of the liner? Incline def contributes to this as well as always riding in low setting. Either way, no biggie and easily avoidable for me.
     
  16. FlatSix911

    FlatSix911 918 Hybrid

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    Easy fix with a heat gun and my car... just apply heat to the inner fender liner and leverage from a 2x4 until clearance is just right :cool:

    [​IMG]
     
  17. heinzcatsoup

    heinzcatsoup Member

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    I actually ended up ordering 8mm spacers from motorsport tech, lets see what happens. Ive been just letting it rub thinking that eventually it will rub itself a little concave section of the fender lining.. but so far it hasn't happened.
     
  18. heinzcatsoup

    heinzcatsoup Member

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    i actually tried to use a heatgun and my hand to push it in.. wasn't working very well, maybe i should have tried a 2x4 like you.
     
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  19. FlatSix911

    FlatSix911 918 Hybrid

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    Mankind was blessed with an opposable thumb with the power and knowledge to use tools... :cool:
     
  20. Dameon

    Dameon Titanium P90DL

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    I used a heat gun and a piece of 2" PVC with a cap on it. It gave a nice smooth, curved, surface to push against the inner fender. Surprisingly, it didn't seem to help much. There's now a slightly concave area, but it still rubs. My next effort is to investigate how to pull that inner fender piece out and modify it on the bench.
     

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