My Model 3 Audio SQ Build Log (Helix, Audiofrog, HAT)

[amorris]

Another quick update. Got the Audiofrog GS25 midranges installed. Just did left and right since I’m not going to tuna. Center channel. You can see I’ve mounted them on 3D printed PETG mounts using the ones that Travis Llado designed.
The connectors used are form Amped garage and were a perfect fit. The wire they use is also excellent.
First impressions are amazing. These mids paired with the tweeters are so clear and clean. I can’t wait to hear what the GS60 woofers add to the mix.

 

[amorris]

Here's some video talking about the midrange install too:

 

[amorris]

And here's getting the AudioFrog GS60 door woofers all ready to install:

 

[amorris]

Tonight’s adventure is soundproofing the passenger side door. I took about 4 sq feet of dynamat extreme and dampened the inside of the door down on all thinner outer door pieces. I also struck butyl rope between the crash bars and the door skin. I also applied dynamat to the back of the plastic piece that covers the large opening in the door.

After the dynamat was applied, I moved into applying Resonix CCF7 closed cell foam. It’s kind of an ugly job but it works really well. The adhesive is insanely good.

basically to do this you have to take the door panel off and unplug all of the wiring. It’s a real pain. The next step is to put some dynamat on the large plastic pieces on the back of the door panel, tape down all the retaining pop clips with fabric tape and reinstall. Doing the “knock test” shows that the door is quite solid now. Honestly it wasn’t too bad to being with.

 

[P2WRTMR]

Looks good. I started Matting mine and wiring it yesterday. What do you have planned for remote turn on?

 

[amorris]

Looks good. I started Matting mine and wiring it yesterday. What do you have planned for remote turn on?

I'm actually not doing remote turn on since my Helix DSP does line level source detection, it works perfectly. I probably would have done remote turn on if I had gone with the penthouse for power using the resistor/relay modifications. However, I didn't like a lot of things (mainly safety/fire concerns) about that setup, so I'm running power straight off the battery under the hood - no problems at all.

 

[amorris]

So some more quick updates:

I still need to tune and dial everything in, but so far things sound really good even with just the crossovers only loaded into the Helix V Eight.

I also decided I want to give a 12" sub a try, so I have a Stereo Integrity SQL-12 now on hand to play with. I'm going to see how I want to enclose it and go from there.

 

[amorris]

Here's a picture of the SI SQL-12 installed. Built a quick 15 x 15 x 12.5" box, put some carpet on it. So far it sounds amazing, super clean. Haven't tried to get it super loud yet but I'm sure it will. I figured I'd try the box like this for now until I figure out if I want to stay with the 12 or the 10, and then maybe have someone custom build me a box for the trunk well. I realized that I'm terrible at carpeting skills.

 

[Lashlee]

Looks great! I can't wait to get started on mine.

 

[amorris]

Some more updates! Decided to change things up quite a bit, and did the following:

Got rid of the Helix director and mounted a Helix Conductor knob and Amazon Echo auto in an aftermarket center console tray using my own designed 3D printed mount. Conductor is great because you can control up to 4 volumes (Main, Subwoofer, Aux in 1&2), change which tune you're using and more.

Sold the the 10" HAT subwoofer and picked up a Stereo Integrity SQL-12, which has amazing SQ and can also shake the car good in just a 1cu foot box!

Got 3 AudioFrog GB25's which are going to go in the front dash, and I'll install the GS25's into the rear parcel shelf instead.

Got a pair of Stereo Integrity TM65 MK3 midbass drivers to try out in the front doors vs. the GS60s.
Attached are some pics.

 

[Lashlee]

That's a great update!!! Ironically enough, I'm trying to decide to stick with the 12TW3's or to get a pair of the SQL-12's or a single SQL-15.

I also want to know what you think of the Conductor. I've got a Director but have struggled with where to put it.

I think the choices you made on speakers will yield great results. I've used (and plan on using) TM65 Mk2's in my install.

 

[amorris]

That's a great update!!! Ironically enough, I'm trying to decide to stick with the 12TW3's or to get a pair of the SQL-12's or a single SQL-15.

I also want to know what you think of the Conductor. I've got a Director but have struggled with where to put it.

I think the choices you made on speakers will yield great results. I've used (and plan on using) TM65 Mk2's in my install.

@Lashlee So far I absolutely love the conductor. Makes it easy to do everything I need to do with it vs. the director. I'm running an optical cable today as well so I can have a straight digital connection for the iPhone, and I'll assign a volume color to the conductor for that as well.

Nice, sounds like you're running a lot of the same gear. The TM65's should be a perfect fit with the 3D printed mounts I used.

 

[Lashlee]

I'm impressed with how well the TM65's did in the last install (they replaced a set of ML1600's) so that's settled. The 3d printed mounts I had printed will need to be modified slightly to fit the size of the magnet in my setup (which I think Nick changed on the V2 to V3).

I may have give the Conductor a serious look, especially considering I'm looking at either the optical option (I do have a 12v converted airport express for airplay) or getting one of the BT cards to fit my DSP Pro. I am curious why more people aren't on board with the BT card option for ATF processors. I know Mosconi installs generally use the AMASS for direct BT connection...

 

[amorris]

I have the BT HEC card in mine but I need to get it all tuned because the audio sounds way different than from the head unit.

 

[Lashlee]

That's odd, though I guess it's supposed to "sound" different!

 

[ELEV8DX]

If anyone is curious to know how much an aftermarket system will affect their range, I just made this calculator a moment ago. Maybe those who have seen real-world results can vouch for the accuracy of the calculator. I'm about to be building my X and, being that I already have range anxiety, I needed to see what my 3 AB amplifiers were going to do to my range based on different listening levels.

Shared EV Amplifier Power Calculator

Calculator ELEVATED AUDIO'S EV RANGE CALCULATOR (AFTER AUDIO UPGRADE) FIND YOUR ESTIMATED RANGE AFTER UPGRADING YOUR AUDIO SYSTEM. (ONLY FACTORS NEW ELECTRICICAL CHANGES, NOT WEIGHT) Please enter your values in highlighted cells Enter Your Vehicle's Battery Size (kWh),75 Enter Your Average Milea...

docs.google.com

 

[imschur]

Lost me at 'stock system is pretty poor' - my M3P stock sounds pretty good to me, but I'm no audiophile. Sounds like a money burning project - hope you find what your after. Have fun and make it yours!

 

[Zacster]

Lost me at 'stock system is pretty poor' - my M3P stock sounds pretty good to me, but I'm no audiophile. Sounds like a money burning project - hope you find what your after. Have fun and make it yours!

I have an SR+ and I don't find it to sound good at all. An M3P should sound better, but I test drove a LR before I bought mine and I didn't think it sounded all that great either, even with the sub and other speakers. My old Honda Odyssey sounded better with its stock system and a hi-res front end on my phone. I find that the stock system emphasizes certain frequency to "sound good" but leave holes in the frequency response. This is the same thing that Bose does. It sounds good until you play something that is focused on the frequencies they don't reproduce well and then it sounds horrible. And to top it off the stock streaming is very low-res and only music in FLAC format on a stick will sound good, and how many of us have all of our favorites on a stick? In the end my wife and I find the sound fatiguing and turn it off. The thing that irks me the most is how difficult it is to add a custom system which is why there are threads like this. You can't just go into a car audio dealer and have them build a system for you as it has to interface with the closed Tesla computer.

 

[amorris]

Lost me at 'stock system is pretty poor' - my M3P stock sounds pretty good to me, but I'm no audiophile. Sounds like a money burning project - hope you find what your after. Have fun and make it yours!

Yeah the premium audio you have in your M3P is a lot better sounding that what comes stock in the SR+. The SR+ doesn't have the subwoofer, the tweeters, the imaging speakers, the rear deck speakers or the 2nd amp. It's also highly likely that it's tuned differently too. So far I'm very happy with my upgrades, and think they sound pretty awesome. I'll have to compare it to my friends stock LR system.

 

[siamnet]

Sorry I didn’t answer your question about power. With my Helix M One X, I tested with a JL Audio 13W7 and running the amp to its full potential, the bass was pounding so hard my front dash was rattling nuts and not a single error about power. Hope that helps to run it from the 12V battery.

For those that are following this thread I have a very similar set up on MYP. Can check out my album. Tesla Model Y Audio Upgrade

You thread from

https://imgur.com/a/4Rva611

shows a connection to the 12V battery. Was there any issue(s) with hooking up to the 12V battery? Another guy hook up his amps to the car's main battery (under the rear seat of his model 3). I'm trying to figure out the best way for power connection.