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I'm pretty sure the installers mentioned that mine was the second generation when the project started, but I was going to email the roofing lead and ask just to double-check. I'd heard the version 3 reference at the autonomy day presentation on Monday, so I've been curious since then (and what's actually different between the two if I really am gen 2).
 
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@woferry - If its the worst happens that you are travelling and you get PTO.. haha First world problems. Ask you neighbor if you trust them. glad to hear moving slowly

Totally, but it would be my luck with the way everything has gone. No, I want to be there when the switches are flipped, to make sure nothing bursts into flame or such. :) Even if I got PTO tomorrow, while I'd consider racing home to give it a try I'm not sure I'd leave things on without being able to watch it more closely (I would like to get the PW above the 0.008% SOE it's reporting right now, however). So at least one more week of paying for electricity consumption. :p
 
Well, my luck turned for the better and I got the PTO email from PG&E this afternoon! Flipped all of the switches when I got home at 5, managed to produce around 5kWh before the sun went down, all of which either powered the house or the PW, brought it up to 25% so at least it won't be sitting at 0 any longer. I did switch everything off, so it will be a few days before I get a full day of testing out of it.

Turns out the installer had made two mistakes on the CTs (so all 4 had issues), when the inverters first came online the gateway still showed no solar or Powerwall, and instead my household consumption more than doubled (0.6kW -> 1.6kW), while my meter was running backwards. One of the two inverters (presumably the bigger one) was looped backwards through the solar CTs, so it must have looked like consumption to the gateway and it ignored it. Once I fixed that it then showed ~4kW coming from the solar, ~1.7kW going to the PW, and 3.3kW coming from the grid to power my home at 5.6kW (mind you I hadn't turned anything on compared to the ~600W "idle" house state, and the meter was still running backwards). Turns out there was a problem with the grid CTs as well, because the meter and original service panel share a box with no place to put the CTs for a proper "grid" measurement, the two breakers that remain in that panel were passed through the CT (so the 100A to the gateway and the 30A from one of the two inverters). Everything looked good when I switched that inverter off, so I turned its wires around in the grid CTs and suddenly everything was reporting properly (also started putting all of the solar that wasn't going to the house into the PW). So I stopped exporting anything, but at least stored some more energy to bleed-off over the next few days. :p

But all of the "paperwork" is finally behind me, now to actually start producing energy! Oh, and now I officially feel like I can start challenging all of those people calling Solar Roof "vaporware".
 
Well, my luck turned for the better and I got the PTO email from PG&E this afternoon! Flipped all of the switches when I got home at 5, managed to produce around 5kWh before the sun went down, all of which either powered the house or the PW, brought it up to 25% so at least it won't be sitting at 0 any longer. I did switch everything off, so it will be a few days before I get a full day of testing out of it.

Turns out the installer had made two mistakes on the CTs (so all 4 had issues), when the inverters first came online the gateway still showed no solar or Powerwall, and instead my household consumption more than doubled (0.6kW -> 1.6kW), while my meter was running backwards. One of the two inverters (presumably the bigger one) was looped backwards through the solar CTs, so it must have looked like consumption to the gateway and it ignored it. Once I fixed that it then showed ~4kW coming from the solar, ~1.7kW going to the PW, and 3.3kW coming from the grid to power my home at 5.6kW (mind you I hadn't turned anything on compared to the ~600W "idle" house state, and the meter was still running backwards). Turns out there was a problem with the grid CTs as well, because the meter and original service panel share a box with no place to put the CTs for a proper "grid" measurement, the two breakers that remain in that panel were passed through the CT (so the 100A to the gateway and the 30A from one of the two inverters). Everything looked good when I switched that inverter off, so I turned its wires around in the grid CTs and suddenly everything was reporting properly (also started putting all of the solar that wasn't going to the house into the PW). So I stopped exporting anything, but at least stored some more energy to bleed-off over the next few days. :p

But all of the "paperwork" is finally behind me, now to actually start producing energy! Oh, and now I officially feel like I can start challenging all of those people calling Solar Roof "vaporware".

Congrat, btw I sent you a DM. If you can take a look please :)
 
Totally, but it would be my luck with the way everything has gone. No, I want to be there when the switches are flipped, to make sure nothing bursts into flame or such. :) Even if I got PTO tomorrow, while I'd consider racing home to give it a try I'm not sure I'd leave things on without being able to watch it more closely (I would like to get the PW above the 0.008% SOE it's reporting right now, however). So at least one more week of paying for electricity consumption. :p
Lucky you. Congrats. It made sense for you to flip the switch as I see you had to make some changes. You moved electrical wires yourself?
 
Lucky you. Congrats. It made sense for you to flip the switch as I see you had to make some changes. You moved electrical wires yourself?

I'm an electrical engineer, so it's not foreign territory to me. The CT's are simply hall-effect current sensors which I use in DC circuits frequently. But the wires need to pass-through in the right direction or you get an additive effect instead of subtractive (or vice-versa). There was enough slack in the raceway wiring to turn around the ones that needed to be turned around without disconnecting at either end, so it just took a few seconds to fix without having to de-energize any circuits, etc. Figuring out the grid-side problem took longer as I was convinced the direction things were passing through was correct (made sense to me [as well as the installer, it seems] that the inverter should go through in the opposite direction of the gateway, but when you consider that you want to subtract the inverter from the gateway it eventually became clear that it was wrong, plus the fact that if I just killed that one breaker everything else was reporting properly, clearly that pair of wires had to be the issue, so at first it was swap-and-see, then the moment of realization why that was the right answer). Seems like these should have been caught during commissioning, but I guess they don't actually check the app output or something.

I had also discovered a wiring issue in one of the PV strings, so I've been double-checking their work throughout the process. :) That one I couldn't fix myself as it required replacing MC4 connectors, so I just reported that one to them.
 
Tesla's online quotes of $11/ft^2 for non-solar tiles and $42/ft^2 for solar tiles, plus $10,100 for a single Powerwall, do include installation according to Tesla's website. It's understandable that they would charge extra for "non standard" work. Your project does seem to have been more involved than "normal". However, I'd be curious as to how close Tesla's final prices come to the quoted figures for more "typical" jobs. When Tesla installed our two Powerwalls, the final price was spot-on compared to the initial quote, but there weren't any significant complications.

Also, for extra stuff like removing additional roofing layers, I wonder how Tesla's prices compare with most roofers.


That's totally understandable! If anticipating a potential solar roof, and one's budget allows, preemptively getting rid of natural gas stacks might be ideal. But it may not be ideal from the standpoint of cost. Within the next several years in California, I'd be surprised if there aren't new state and/or utility incentives to encourage property owners to switch to all-electric appliances and heating systems. We have a forced air natural gas furnace at our primary home, and it would cost more than $10K to replace it with heat pumps to cover all of our rooms, so we're waiting for costs to drop.


Heat pumps are designed to run more or less continuously, so the air that they output isn't as hot as from a forced air gas heater that essentially heats the home in bursts. However, an advantage of a heat pump is that it won't tend to reduce the humidity level in the house to really low levels during the winter, as it's simply recirculating the air in each room. We switched to a heat pump at another, smaller family home and it worked quite well all winter, including in February when temperatures frequently dropped into the teens (Fahrenheit). If the old gas heater still works, I agree that keeping it as a backup makes sense - why not, if it doesn't cost anything?


Dual-fuel means that you have an electric induction stovetop and a natural gas oven, right? In our case, we were doing a lot of baking and we were tired of the indoor emissions from our natural gas oven, so we just went all electric. Most home ovens aren't vented particularly well, and the exhaust gases just go into the home's living space. This includes carbon monoxide, of course. It also includes a lot of water vapor. Previously, whenever we ran the oven for long periods, we noticed condensation on the insides of our windows, but this completely stopped once we switched to electric.


We have an "on demand" tankless water heater at a rental property, due to space limitations, and I'm not a big fan. We also had one at a previous residence. Maybe they've improved in the ten years since we last installed one, but our experience with tankless water heaters is that they can be finicky about changes in the hot water flow rate. If you're in the shower and you attempt to adjust the flow of hot water, you may get nailed with an unexpected blast of cold water. In addition, we haven't noticed much in the way of natural gas savings.

It's currently possible to buy a heat pump water heater at Home Depot for less than $1200, for a 50 gallon tank. For a mild climate or a location such as a garage or basement that's not directly exposed to cold outdoor air, this might be a good option.
We have been all electric in Western NY for quite a few years. Geothermal costs us about 150/month for 2800 sf and cathedral ceilings. Hybrid water heater (heat pump) and superheater in the geothermal costs 90/year (not month) on which I put a meter.

The problem is w hybrid heater: NOONE can fix it from Buffalo to Syracuse. (Rheem) I checked w GE and the same issue. Lowe’s now sells AO Smith but they don’t know anyone who can fix it. My Rheem made a funny noise, so after getting referred to at least 6 repair people who were clueless, the HD warranty people paid me the cost of my unit, which still works fine.

So buyer beware.

Geothermal I would install in a heartbeat. Particularly in new construction.
 
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Well, the system has been online for almost 2 weeks now, and I couldn't be happier (well, I would be a bit happier if I was getting direct data from my Solivia units, I started another thread for that). I'm putting data on pvoutput here, though it's not live data yet but a daily upload, still need to do some work on my publishing scripts before it will be truly "live". Last Saturday's data (5/11) looks bad because of the grid outage testing I was doing, I need to re-assemble that day as my grid-side inverter was still connected to the grid (and not in the Gateway's CT loops), so since the Gateway wasn't seeing any of that inverter's production it's missing from my initial upload. But I have the data from my Rainforest Eagle that shows what went to the grid during that time, just need to combine the data and re-submit it.

But the short story is beyond what seems to be some minor measurement error in the CT data (I seem to be seeing a pretty constant ~18W offset in both the solar and grid data) I haven't consumed any power from the grid since I flipped the switches for good. The single PW has kept my house powered between solar production periods, even on the past few overcast/rainy days, and with typical (for me) cooking/cleaning/laundry loads. PG&E has left me a bit frustrated, the PTO email said I'd be getting a welcome packet from them explaining the net metering, etc, 3 weeks later I still haven't received anything. And my PG&E dashboard won't tell me what my current metering plan is (seems to be blank where that information should be), so I'm not sure whether I'm now on TOU-A or TOU-B or if they didn't change it at all (when I downloaded my hourly billing data it suggested I was still paying a fixed rate). My bill period should have closed on the 12th, but since San Jose switched to a CCA in February it seems to take PG&E much longer to actually publish the bill than they used to (used to be online a day or two later, now seems to take at least a week), hopefully I'll see it in the next few days. So I'll be really curious to see this first bill and what they're actually doing.

It's funny, I'd guess most people go through it especially when they look at a daily production graph, but clouds are officially my new enemy. :) And normally they're pretty rare in a Bay Area summer (at least other than the morning marine layer, which I used to like because it generally meant a cooler day), but this has been an unusual week. I've joked through the whole thing that doing a roof seems to be a very effective rain-dance, and I guess that's continuing. So if you were tired of CA's droughts, you're welcome. ;)

But so far I have a daily routine of capturing several views of the Tesla app to get all of its data, here are a few of the composites, the best day so far, worst, and yesterday (rainy in the morning).

TeslaApp-20190512.jpg TeslaApp-20190515.jpg TeslaApp-20190517.jpg
 
As an overview, since I think I'd only described this in text earlier, here's how the system is split up:

Panel Grouping.jpg


The sun basically rises from the top-right corner, and sets along the bottom, close to the bottom-left corner. The grid-side inverter has the "I1" and "I2" strings connected (S5 and S1/S2), and the house-side inverter has the "I3" and "I4" strings connected (S3 and S4/S6). So going by the Vmp/Imp data, the inverter channels should be:

I1: 240.16V Vmp, 7.8A Imp (1873.2 W)
I2: 331.36V Vmp, 15.6A Imp (5169.2 W)
I3: 376.96V Vmp, 7.8A Imp (2940.3 W)
I4: 212.8V Vmp, 15.6A Imp (3319.7W)

Which also means there's a total of 7042W on the first Solivia 5.2, and 6260W on the other one. Looking at the production history data on the inverters, the grid-side one has hit a Pmax of 5000+W almost every day, so this one seems to clip a good bit. The house-side one has peaked at ~5250W two days, but usually runs closer to 4200W peak. The actual Vmax/Imax/Pmax data reported by the inverters per-string so far is:

I1: 205V Vmax, 9A Imax, 1375W Pmax
I2: 392V Vmax, 16.4A Imax, 4457W Pmax
I3: 264V Vmax, 11A Imax, 2134W Pmax
I4: 240V Vmax, 19.5A Imax, 3608W Pmax

So interestingly, I4 (S4+S6, noting that S6 should get the least sun) has exceeded it's rated power (twice), the rest have not, though I suspect I1 & I2 have been limited due to their shared overload/clipping. I'm curious why I3 (S3)'s Vmax hasn't gotten near it's expected Vmp, I'm going to ask my lead about that one to see what he thinks.
 
The tiles, or the inverters? The inverters are covered for 10 years. The tiles have breakage, weatherization and production warranties.

View attachment 409415 View attachment 409416
Degradation is not quite as good as the standalone Panasonic panels. These degrade about 0.5833% per year or about 17.5% after 30 years.

The VBHN330SA17 guarantee 90.75% by year 25, or 0.37% per year. Assuming linear degradation, that's ~88.9% by year 30.

it's not clear with just this text if: they will replace any malfunctioning tiles, ignore bad tiles if your overall average doesn't degrade much, or just somehow credit you the production difference annually.

Since roofs run hotter than 25C, would be nice to see the Pmax/Voc numbers for performance degradation under operating temperatures.
 
I find the insolation data on PVOutput rather interesting, also. I have the system configured as 444x 30W panels instead of the proper 561x 23.75W, they actually didn't allow a panel spec below 50W (or non-integer values), after I emailed them they lowered the limit to 30W (and still integer-only), but that's still not correct obviously. But 444 * 30 gets 13.32kW which is basically the same. Pretty much all of the roof surfaces are 18° pitch so I entered that. Since the surfaces point 4 different directions there wasn't really anything I could put in the orientation field, so I set that to East West, and I left the azimuth at 0. Panel coefficient is blank and shading is Low with no time specified.

With this setup, on a clear day the data is pretty darn close. This link shows May 12th, if you click on Insolation below the graph (there's no direct-link to this, unfortunately) shows how close the projection is to actual. It's a bit off at the edges, probably because of the panels on the less-ideal surfaces for the current low sun position. But then if you look at this link for May 19th and click on Insolation, in between the clouds the system peaks quite a bit above the projection, ~1500W (~20%) over at times. I guess this is some combination of the tiles and/or inverter being cooler and able to output more during these periods? I haven't seen any good cases so far where things cleared-up and stayed clear, to see when it eventually comes back in-line with the insolation projection. Though looking at Insolation on the first day I flipped the switch (May 5th), it basically followed the curve from the moment it was switched-on, so I guess it's more the tiles than the inverters (as the roof would have already been in the sun and warm in this case, but the inverters had been sitting off until then, and there was no overshoot in that case).

Also took screenshots since the direct-links aren't possible, in the order I referenced them above.

Screen Shot 2019-05-21 at 12.05.52 PM.png Screen Shot 2019-05-21 at 12.06.15 PM.png Screen Shot 2019-05-21 at 12.05.23 PM.png