New "wraparound" dash door panels for the US Model Y's - retrofit to existing cars?

[Destiny1701]

I did not order the wood insert pieces as I'm going with the "Real Carbon Fiber" inserts from Hansshow. I've installed one of their steering wheels along with their carbon fiber dash pad/insert and this is the final piece I need to get the interior looking the way I want it.

Hold on the carbon fibre insert you ordered is the actual piece with the entire metal trim around it? Not just just the wood section correct?

The wood is insert into an entire piece that snaps on over top the door panel as a seamless design. One cannot simply order carbon fibre inserts or covers.

So you must have ordered the entire piece then which is what the actual wood is a part of?

 

[KRG21]

This is significantly less expensive than I would've guessed. Cool upgrade. Looking forward to seeing a couple of these swaps completed.

 

[Destiny1701]

Here we go Nov 9th…includes parts and install!
I’ll post before and after pics

 

[EightBitWhit]

Hold on the carbon fibre insert you ordered is the actual piece with the entire metal trim around it? Not just just the wood section correct?

The wood is insert into an entire piece that snaps on over top the door panel as a seamless design. One cannot simply order carbon fibre inserts or covers.

So you must have ordered the entire piece then which is what the actual wood is a part of?

Yes it was and one can definitely order the carbon fiber inserts just like I did - but what you get and whether they would work "like OEM" with the upgraded door panels would totally depend on what you buy and from whom. I've stuck with Hansshow for all of my carbon fiber mods, so that the material pattern is consistent throughout my interior. The "real carbon fiber" line that Hansshow sells are OEM Tesla parts + their additions for material.

Here's the Carbon Fiber insert before installation, paired against the new door panel:

Here's the Carbon Fibert insert installed in the door panel. Looks absolutely perfect and is exactly what I was after.

 

[Destiny1701]

Yes it was and one can definitely order the carbon fiber inserts just like I did - but what you get and whether they would work "like OEM" with the upgraded door panels would totally depend on what you buy and from whom. I've stuck with Hansshow for all of my carbon fiber mods, so that the material pattern is consistent throughout my interior. The "real carbon fiber" line that Hansshow sells are OEM Tesla parts + their additions for material.

Here's the Carbon Fiber insert before installation, paired against the new door panel:

View attachment 871265

Here's the Carbon Fibert insert installed in the door panel. Looks absolutely perfect and is exactly what I was after.

View attachment 871266

Ok that makes sense

 

[RIPmyAMG]

Update to the thread... my door panels finally arrived at my local Tesla SC and I picked them up yesterday! I'm aiming to do the install this next week and will report back with finished pictures once I'm done!

Here's how they were packed/wrapped and handed over to me...

View attachment 870409

And I was happy to see that they did indeed ship me the proper door panels!

View attachment 870410

Been waiting so patiently for an update! Can't wait to see your install progress.

 

[EightBitWhit]

OK, the panel swap is done, and I've got pictures in tow!

Here's a quick write-up of the overall process that I took. I did the passenger door first, and finished on the driver's side. The first door took me about 1.5 hours to do and the second door took me about 30 minutes... it's funny how that goes!

Step 1 - remove the old door panel
Before you get started, remove the tweeter that sits on top of the door panel. It will take some effort, but it does "pry" up and "pop" out with some persuasion. I used a trim removal tool to get underneath of it and lift an edge of it up so I could get a couple fingers under it to lift it out. You'll then need to disconnect the wiring harness connector and set the speaker aside.

You'll need a Torx T-27 bit in order to remove the 3 bolts securing the door panel to the door itself. Pictures below show where each bolt is located.

Bolt 1 - under the red reflector

Bolt 2 - on the backside of the door pull

Bolt 3 - on the underside of the door pull

Once the bolts are out, I then used an interior trim tool and my hands to pull the panel back from the door frame and lifted the panel from the door itself. I started at a bottom corner and ran along the bottom, popping the plastic rivets out as I went and the panel eventually freed itself from the door. There are 3 wiring harness connectors that must be removed (2 across the width of the door, one at the LED light at the bottom of the panel).

Next, you'll need to remove the emergency latch release cable... it's easier than it looks, as it simply lifts out of the retaining assembly once you pull the cable up and rotate it around. It's keyed and can only come out and go back in one way, so it's difficult to mess up.

With that done, you can then fully remove the panel from the door.

I set the old door panel side-by-side with the new one just for comparisons sake:

One interesting point - the door panels have NO insulation whatsoever (outside of the white fabric liner shown above)... no wonder the doors sound so "hollow" when pulled shut!

Here's a detail shot of the back side of the new panel - I didn't think the flocked storage compartment on the new panel would make a big difference in sound insulation, but TRUST ME - it's night-and-day compared to the old panel. Now when I shut either of the front doors, they sound so much better and I don't worry that they're going to explode every time they are shut!

Step 2 - Prepare the new door panel
Another difference between the two panels that I wasn't quite expecting was the mounting tabs... the new door panel has these white/green tabs that will not work in my "older" door frame, so I had to swap over the black mounting tabs from the old panel before putting the panel back on the door... you can see the differences in the side-by-side picture, above.

FYI that I used some medium-sized needle-nose pliers to remove the tabs from both doors, as trying to remove them by hand wasn't going to cut it, as the tabs are too easy to break by hand.

While I had the door apart, I took the opportunity to tape the wiring harness so that I eliminated all points of "rattle" that I could possibly find. I used some black gorilla tape and it worked a treat. You can see below what I'm referring to... I walked the entire harness and made sure that if there was any point where the harness could move and "slap" against the door panel it got some tape!

Step 3 - install new door panel
Once finished there, I then lined everything back up, connected the wiring harnesses (be sure to pay special attention to the tweeter harness, as it has to run up the door in a specific manner in order to reach properly), inserted the emergency release cable pawl, set it in its mounting tab, laid the white sound proof material back over and situated it properly and then mouted the new panel on the door frame.

To get this installed, you'll need to start at the top of the door and "hang" the panel on the metal "lip" that runs the length of the door. Once you have the door supporting the weight of the panel, you can then "swing" the bottom panel down and into place. It'll take some trial/error, but it will eventually "find its home". You'll want to ensure the 3 bolt holes line up properly, and once they do, you should be able to use your fist and go around the perimeter of the door panel and hit it (gently) and feel/hear the plastic tabs "snap" back into place, securing the panel onto the door.

Once you are at that point, reinstall the 3 Torx bolts, reinstall the red reflector, mount the tweeter and marvel at your handiwork!!!

I then repeated on the other side, and the end result is shown in the next post (I ran into the 10 attachment limit on this post).

 

[EightBitWhit]

And here the project is - finished up and in all its glory! I now have (most of) the interior I was hoping for from the factory...

Pano, baby....

All up, I love this mod. Despite it being expensive, I feel it to be 100% worth the investment as it brings the interior up quite a bit in complexity and fit/finish AND the car is quieter now due to the additional flocking on the back side of the door panels... the doors also sound so much more "solid" when shutting, as well (I noted that above).

Truthfully, it makes me want to do the rear door panels now as well just so everything matches! I suppose I should check EPC to see if they have been updated...

I'm so happy now every time I get in and drive the car... I have uniformity. I absolutely LOVE the Hansshow steering wheel (it's one of the best mods I've done) and the matching interior pieces in matte carbon fiber really give the interior a look of understated elegance.

I'm super-pleased with how this all turned out.

 

[Jkwan]

And here the project is - finished up and in all its glory! I now have (most of) the interior I was hoping for from the factory...

View attachment 873695


View attachment 873696

View attachment 873697

Pano, baby....

View attachment 873698

All up, I love this mod. Despite it being expensive, I feel it to be 100% worth the investment as it brings the interior up quite a bit in complexity and fit/finish AND the car is quieter now due to the additional flocking on the back side of the door panels... the doors also sound so much more "solid" when shutting, as well (I noted that above).

Truthfully, it makes me want to do the rear door panels now as well just so everything matches! I suppose I should check EPC to see if they have been updated...

I'm so happy now every time I get in and drive the car... I have uniformity. I absolutely LOVE the Hansshow steering wheel (it's one of the best mods I've done) and the matching interior pieces in matte carbon fiber really give the interior a look of understated elegance.

I'm super-pleased with how this all turned out.

What brand is you steering wheel?

 

[EightBitWhit]

What brand is you steering wheel?

It's from Hansshow - Glossy Real Tesla Model 3 Y Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel|Hansshow

Carbon Fiber dash is from them as well as the door panel inserts... ordered everything from them so the matte finish would be uniform on all the parts.

 

[Destiny1701]

Here we go Nov 9th…includes parts and install!
I’ll post before and after pics


View attachment 871026

Delayed to next week…
For the install labour and time mentioned above, I think it’s a steal being charged $60 for Tesla to just do it lol

 

[EightBitWhit]

Delayed to next week…
For the install labour and time mentioned above, I think it’s a steal being charged $60 for Tesla to just do it lol

For the $60, I'd agree that its a very fair deal for the install. My main reason for doing it myself is that I really wanted to see what I could do to help make the doors sound better when they were being shut. My driver's door was "OK" but the passenger door sounded absolutely horrible when shut anything barely harder than "ginger soft".. it sounded like even the most routine of shuts was a slam and the door just sounded bad.

I'm glad that I put my hands in it and taped everything down, as that might have been an issue beforehand.

Either way - you're going to be fine and I'll be looking forward to how yours turns out!

 

[Destiny1701]

For the $60, I'd agree that its a very fair deal for the install. My main reason for doing it myself is that I really wanted to see what I could do to help make the doors sound better when they were being shut. My driver's door was "OK" but the passenger door sounded absolutely horrible when shut anything barely harder than "ginger soft".. it sounded like even the most routine of shuts was a slam and the door just sounded bad.

I'm glad that I put my hands in it and taped everything down, as that might have been an issue beforehand.

Either way - you're going to be fine and I'll be looking forward to how yours turns out!

You just gave me an idea! I know the SC service manager personally and I’ll ask him if they can tape stuff up

I’ll definitely post when it’s done !

 

[tangible1]

I was thinking that it would be simpler, for part storage, to have a panel without any trim,
and to have the trim (wood, white, or more choices in the future, like in the case of the MS and MX)
to be added later.

But at the assembly time, it is certainly simpler to have the panel assembled already with the correct trim.

nope.
the door panel with trim is from an entirely different mold than the original door panel.
the wood trim is inset. and the wiring harness behind the panel is routed differently.

 

[RIPmyAMG]

OK, the panel swap is done, and I've got pictures in tow!

Here's a quick write-up of the overall process that I took. I did the passenger door first, and finished on the driver's side. The first door took me about 1.5 hours to do and the second door took me about 30 minutes... it's funny how that goes!

Step 1 - remove the old door panel
Before you get started, remove the tweeter that sits on top of the door panel. It will take some effort, but it does "pry" up and "pop" out with some persuasion. I used a trim removal tool to get underneath of it and lift an edge of it up so I could get a couple fingers under it to lift it out. You'll then need to disconnect the wiring harness connector and set the speaker aside.

You'll need a Torx T-27 bit in order to remove the 3 bolts securing the door panel to the door itself. Pictures below show where each bolt is located.

Bolt 1 - under the red reflector
View attachment 873365

Bolt 2 - on the backside of the door pull
View attachment 873366

Bolt 3 - on the underside of the door pull
View attachment 873367

Once the bolts are out, I then used an interior trim tool and my hands to pull the panel back from the door frame and lifted the panel from the door itself. I started at a bottom corner and ran along the bottom, popping the plastic rivets out as I went and the panel eventually freed itself from the door. There are 3 wiring harness connectors that must be removed (2 across the width of the door, one at the LED light at the bottom of the panel).

View attachment 873684

Next, you'll need to remove the emergency latch release cable... it's easier than it looks, as it simply lifts out of the retaining assembly once you pull the cable up and rotate it around. It's keyed and can only come out and go back in one way, so it's difficult to mess up.

View attachment 873686

With that done, you can then fully remove the panel from the door.

I set the old door panel side-by-side with the new one just for comparisons sake:

View attachment 873685

One interesting point - the door panels have NO insulation whatsoever (outside of the white fabric liner shown above)... no wonder the doors sound so "hollow" when pulled shut!

Here's a detail shot of the back side of the new panel - I didn't think the flocked storage compartment on the new panel would make a big difference in sound insulation, but TRUST ME - it's night-and-day compared to the old panel. Now when I shut either of the front doors, they sound so much better and I don't worry that they're going to explode every time they are shut!

View attachment 873687

Step 2 - Prepare the new door panel
Another difference between the two panels that I wasn't quite expecting was the mounting tabs... the new door panel has these white/green tabs that will not work in my "older" door frame, so I had to swap over the black mounting tabs from the old panel before putting the panel back on the door... you can see the differences in the side-by-side picture, above.

FYI that I used some medium-sized needle-nose pliers to remove the tabs from both doors, as trying to remove them by hand wasn't going to cut it, as the tabs are too easy to break by hand.

While I had the door apart, I took the opportunity to tape the wiring harness so that I eliminated all points of "rattle" that I could possibly find. I used some black gorilla tape and it worked a treat. You can see below what I'm referring to... I walked the entire harness and made sure that if there was any point where the harness could move and "slap" against the door panel it got some tape!

View attachment 873691

Step 3 - install new door panel
Once finished there, I then lined everything back up, connected the wiring harnesses (be sure to pay special attention to the tweeter harness, as it has to run up the door in a specific manner in order to reach properly), inserted the emergency release cable pawl, set it in its mounting tab, laid the white sound proof material back over and situated it properly and then mouted the new panel on the door frame.

To get this installed, you'll need to start at the top of the door and "hang" the panel on the metal "lip" that runs the length of the door. Once you have the door supporting the weight of the panel, you can then "swing" the bottom panel down and into place. It'll take some trial/error, but it will eventually "find its home". You'll want to ensure the 3 bolt holes line up properly, and once they do, you should be able to use your fist and go around the perimeter of the door panel and hit it (gently) and feel/hear the plastic tabs "snap" back into place, securing the panel onto the door.

Once you are at that point, reinstall the 3 Torx bolts, reinstall the red reflector, mount the tweeter and marvel at your handiwork!!!

View attachment 873693

View attachment 873694

I then repeated on the other side, and the end result is shown in the next post (I ran into the 10 attachment limit on this post).

What a fantastic write up! I went with an aftermarket mahogany wood "caps" on the dash and the center console, but man does this carbon fiber look so "correct" against the silver and silver trim, black fleather, and suede.

I'll definitely be taking this project on in the near future.

Very interesting find with the lack of insulation in the doors. Great observation there and probably worth it alone.

That final interior shot in your following post just makes everything look so complete.

 

[Shekhawat Mx]

How about white interior model y ? We have white area above the door handle and new doors are coming with black which I’m ok but back doors ? They will remain white …

Any thoughts

 

[Freshness]

How about white interior model y ? We have white area above the door handle and new doors are coming with black which I’m ok but back doors ? They will remain white …

Any thoughts

You can just buy any door panel from a black car. I would consider going used if there's money to be saved.

 

[Destiny1701]

How about white interior model y ? We have white area above the door handle and new doors are coming with black which I’m ok but back doors ? They will remain white …

Any thoughts

You want to switch doors to black and wood? What about front dash then?

 

[lakerholic]

Anyone in Southern California running into issues ordering these parts? After being screwed around with at the Santa Ana, CA shop (they ordered two left doors, two right doors, one left rear parcel shelf insert, etc.) they cancelled my appointment. I tried rescheduling and ended up at Irvine (my mistake) but they said "no problem, we can get you the parts." So I placed a new order with them last week. Today, I get a phone call from someone from Irvine saying they parts cannot be ordered by me because they are "not compatible" and are not for my vin. When I told him the parts were not vin restricted, he said "the parts department will not order the parts for you." So I asked them transfer my appt to Santa Ana. I then messaged them (of course you can't just call, right?!) and got a phone call from the same guy in Irvine saying Santa Ana told them they now will not sell me the parts.

Total crap if you ask me. I'd appreciate it if someone could point me to another location in SoCal... I'm in OC, but I'll drive to get the parts, I don't care.

 

[RIPmyAMG]

Anyone in Southern California running into issues ordering these parts? After being screwed around with at the Santa Ana, CA shop (they ordered two left doors, two right doors, one left rear parcel shelf insert, etc.) they cancelled my appointment. I tried rescheduling and ended up at Irvine (my mistake) but they said "no problem, we can get you the parts." So I placed a new order with them last week. Today, I get a phone call from someone from Irvine saying they parts cannot be ordered by me because they are "not compatible" and are not for my vin. When I told him the parts were not vin restricted, he said "the parts department will not order the parts for you." So I asked them transfer my appt to Santa Ana. I then messaged them (of course you can't just call, right?!) and got a phone call from the same guy in Irvine saying Santa Ana told them they now will not sell me the parts.

Total crap if you ask me. I'd appreciate it if someone could point me to another location in SoCal... I'm in OC, but I'll drive to get the parts, I don't care.

Just reached out to my service center in SoCal. They weren't even aware of the new door panels.

He was very helpful over the phone, I explained that several users on the forums have already ordered the parts and installed them. He just simply sent me an email so I had his contact info and requested all the relevant information including part numbers, which I provided courtesy of the members above. We'll see what they say.

I'd like to see if I can get a tech to come out and just install them for me.

I specified I wouldn't be ordering the wood trim as I'd be immediately replacing them with a drop in carbon fiber trim piece, and only needed the door cards. Will update, and if successful I'll forward you the info to the service center that I'm using. The guy was super helpful and responsive and seemed eager to help me get the project done.