Makes sense,...yeah it does suck. I've lowered almost every car I've owned since I got my driver's license at 16. Springs and coilovers with setups ranging from $800 BC's to $4k JIC Magic's...and I can say that not "ALL" coilovers are better. My 3 is just a daily and I'm trying to keep this build OEM+. Figured I'd give UP a try before I give up the ghost and just go back to stock. I've got another "fun" car I gotta dump money in!
I have! I think he forwarded my message to support. Thanks for responding!
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Unfortunately the previous owner bought the springs so they were not covered for replacement. Dealership did switch back to stock suspension but the fender gap makes the car look alot less appealing.
Where do you have your dampers set? Keep in mind the shocks you have a very soft up front and very stiff in the rear. With that said the fronts need to be almost at full stiff and the rear shocks set at least 5-8 clicks softer.
I was the first one to test out these dampers. Tein sent me a pallet so I could do my thing. I was so excited to see an aftermarket damper that I had to get them in our hands first. I have yet to release all our information on them. We're working on a youtube channel that will help provide insight. We've done a very crude test showing the difference between the Teins and the factory dampers. Since the Tein rear damper is univeral for all 3's and Y's it seems they valved it a lot stiffer and the front is extremely soft. I actually think it's really strange because we have seen how it compares to the stock dampers. Before you go about spending money on springs please set your rear dampers to tein and the fronts between 2 and 5 for starters. This might get you where you want to be. We have tested them on all trims of 3's, RWD and AWD, so I hope that this fixes your issue. BTW always counting from full stiff so go righty tighty til it stops and then count backwards the # of clicks I advised. From there you can play with it. but retain that delta or bias from front to rear so to speak.
All the way right means full stiff, count backwards to make it soft. That's how we have always done it. Close the valve and count backwards. Did you check the top nut? Since it's not a nylock it might be backing off. This is one thing I don't like about the Teins. They don't give you a good way to hold the shaft from spinning while tightening down the shaft nut.
Did you ever end up getting the UP springs? I’m torn between Eibach, UP mild or just saying f**k it and spending the money on MPP comfort coilovers. Whichever way I decide to go, I’m pretty sure I’ll be adding toe and camber arms
I bought some nylock nuts and torqued them down to spec while holding the shock shaft with vicegrips wrapped in electrical tape. The clunk remains, so this is either an issue with the shock itself or something about how the spring is aligned on the perch. I ordered another 13mm skinny socket since redwood ghosted me on the one I ordered from them. I'm pretty sure the three nuts at the top of the strut are tight, but that's the last thing I can think to check before I disassemble the whole shebang again. Open to your thoughts!
I did not. Still rolling on Tein EduraPro Plus with stock springs. I think I'd be satisfied with the ride if I could just eliminate the noises.
I just cringed at the thought of this. Even the slightest damage to the shaft surface can ruin your internal seals in the shocks.
