-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
strider
Active Member
Do not make a purchasing decision based on this but I'm pretty sure the calipers and pads are stock Lotus Elise. Should be trivial to find a source for those.
strider
Active Member
I agree with @titaniumdave the pads will need to be reinstalled. The mistake most people make (and I could see shops doing this because the right way takes more time) is that you need to let the spray set up on the pads for like 10 minutes (it's in the instructions on the can, don't trust my number) BEFORE installing. Otherwise the spray will squeeze/run out and you'll have metal-metal contact and hence, squeaking.
shrink
Member
You know what, I hung out and watched the install. That's exactly what happened.
Thanks for the info everybody!
Both the CRC Disc Brake Quiet Spray and the CRC Disc Brake Quiet paste
have instructions to apply and wait for 10 minutes.
Is there any reason the spray and or paste could not be applied
a day or two before the install?
Hang them up out of the way and install at your leisure.
They certainly would not be rushed...
have instructions to apply and wait for 10 minutes.
Is there any reason the spray and or paste could not be applied
a day or two before the install?
Hang them up out of the way and install at your leisure.
They certainly would not be rushed...
In Hong Kong the Government inspection Centers conduct the inspection so I worry a little about HK TD/Insurance regulations. It is legal to change... it is a 'notifiable modification' (as Transportation Department likes to call it). They don't mention rotors/pads, but this would seem to indicate it is:
http://www.td.gov.hk/filemanager/en/content_1178/alteration.pdf
A general article:
Your guide to aftermarket vehicle modifications in Hong Kong
Correct on both counts. Nothing stopping you spraying your pads before the install. I normally spray the pads, then start replacing the rotors. By the time you are done. The pads are dry. In winter I tend to run the can under warm water to speed up the drying time or lay the pads on a bearing warmer (think hot plate) before spraying.
Nvbob
Roadster 1256
Rotors all installed!!
Bedded them in (Accelerated to 40, braked to 20 about 6 times, let them cool for about 10 minutes then accelerated to 60, braked to 10 about 10 times and then let them cool) but on hard braking I still get a little rotor knocking. I guess I will need to re-bed them again.
Anyway, Thanks Dave for a great product!!
Bedded them in (Accelerated to 40, braked to 20 about 6 times, let them cool for about 10 minutes then accelerated to 60, braked to 10 about 10 times and then let them cool) but on hard braking I still get a little rotor knocking. I guess I will need to re-bed them again.
Anyway, Thanks Dave for a great product!!
Adrian Cockcroft
Member
I upgraded to the slotted rotors a year or two ago, haven't had any issues with the Tesla service people in Palo Alto. I have 205/50 Toyo R1R on the front rims as well, which are well over sized, but at least they grip under braking. It's clearly an improvement over the stock setup, but there is still an underlying lack of caliper pressure that makes braking weak. There's an old thread from three years ago on four pot caliper upgrades using parts like the VX220 upgrades at eliseparts.com, has anyone else done a recent caliper upgrade? I'm ready to try it out if I can figure out what parts to order.
So I'm at the shop now, getting the rotors and pads installed. All went well, except that the fronts rattle. He used some high temp grease instead of the brake quiet. Said that it works better than the Quiet stuff on foreign cars
Anyway, now trying to glue the shims from the original pads onto the new ones. Is that a good plan, or should I tell him to use the Quiet goop?
EDIT: Never mind... He checked, and they said to use the Brake Quiet. Waiting now for it to get delivered.
Question: Should I make him put it on the rears too?
Anyway, now trying to glue the shims from the original pads onto the new ones. Is that a good plan, or should I tell him to use the Quiet goop?
EDIT: Never mind... He checked, and they said to use the Brake Quiet. Waiting now for it to get delivered.
Question: Should I make him put it on the rears too?
Last edited:
Adrian, I'm happy to help you make your Roadster stop quicker. Can you describe the specific issue you are trying to correct? Generally larger calipers biggest benefit is increased thermal capacity having larger pad area so brakes will fade less and pads last longer. A front only caliper swap may actually make the car pitch forward more when braking, but actually NOT make the car slow any quicker because it upsets the brake bias which is already a bit too much forward for good performance on the track. What pads are you running? My first move would be to go with more aggressive pad compound.
The other place to look for improvements in general performance is to invest in better coilovers. Having the tires get better traction has a very positive effect on the ability to let the brakes actually stop the car.
The other place to look for improvements in general performance is to invest in better coilovers. Having the tires get better traction has a very positive effect on the ability to let the brakes actually stop the car.
Use the Brake Quiet on all the pads or they WILL rattle. Make sure the mechanic gets all the grease off the caliper pistons before he puts them back it. The grease will prevent the Brake Quiet from bonding, really sucks he tried this...
Ok, done! Well, sort of. Brake Quiet applied, dried, and re-installed. He took it for a test drive, and all was well, including a couple of stops from 40 and 60.
Of course, on the way home, they started clicking again. Right front, I think. Did a few more hard stops from 50-60 ish to 20-ish with the car in neutral (disables regen), then drove around the block to let them cool. Home now, parked without setting the hand brake. IR gun on the fronts is in the mid 140's C, rears in the mid 120's.
Observations. Besides the clicking (which I presume means he needs to re-apply the brake quiet, right?), there is still a LOT of force needed to do a hard stop. I suppose it's better than the original brakes, but I kind of was expecting more. They did not seem to fade at all, which was nice, so if that and the better grip when wet are all I get, I will be happy. Just checking to see if it means I need to do some more hard stops, or if I'm done with that part.
Second is that there is a continuous scraping sound as I drive, audible only at slow speeds. Normal, or is there an adjustment that needs to be made?
Thanks,
Greg
p.s. Forgot to mention, these look really nice on the car!
Of course, on the way home, they started clicking again. Right front, I think. Did a few more hard stops from 50-60 ish to 20-ish with the car in neutral (disables regen), then drove around the block to let them cool. Home now, parked without setting the hand brake. IR gun on the fronts is in the mid 140's C, rears in the mid 120's.
Observations. Besides the clicking (which I presume means he needs to re-apply the brake quiet, right?), there is still a LOT of force needed to do a hard stop. I suppose it's better than the original brakes, but I kind of was expecting more. They did not seem to fade at all, which was nice, so if that and the better grip when wet are all I get, I will be happy. Just checking to see if it means I need to do some more hard stops, or if I'm done with that part.
Second is that there is a continuous scraping sound as I drive, audible only at slow speeds. Normal, or is there an adjustment that needs to be made?
Thanks,
Greg
p.s. Forgot to mention, these look really nice on the car!
Greg,
It does sound like you need to re-do the Brake quiet for the clicking noise.
The scraping could be an issue with caliper fit up. I have done a couple hundred rotor sets for Lotus Elise and Tesla Roadsters, there have been 5 or 6 cars(1 Roadster) that had interference issues with the front calipers from manufacturing tolerance ranges. The caliper actually touches the outer edge of the rotors. I have shims in stock to deal with this issue, let me know if that is the problem and I will send you a set.
It does sound like you need to re-do the Brake quiet for the clicking noise.
The scraping could be an issue with caliper fit up. I have done a couple hundred rotor sets for Lotus Elise and Tesla Roadsters, there have been 5 or 6 cars(1 Roadster) that had interference issues with the front calipers from manufacturing tolerance ranges. The caliper actually touches the outer edge of the rotors. I have shims in stock to deal with this issue, let me know if that is the problem and I will send you a set.
I don't think it's the calipers, as it is the same sound as the brakes make when applying lightly. Just not as loud. I'm thinking it's just the pads resting against the rotors lightly, and that it will "go away" with time, but wanted to be sure.
Similar threads
- Article
