-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
arijaycomet
Member
With that high of a CAC... can I ask....
1 - how long ago did you get the R80 upgrade pack installed?
2 - how many miles have you put on it since then?
Thanks. Sadly, I cannot help with your other question.
Probably the latest firmware ;-)
The experimental digital speedo feature is in the bleeding-edge nightly 'edge' ota builds, but not in 'eap, or 'main' yet. It will appear in the 3.1.009 formal release later this month (that will go out when we have the server v3 support working, which is getting pretty close now).
If you can't wait (and the words 'bleeding-edge nightly automated build experimental release' don't scare you), you will need to OTA update the edge release:
api.openvehicles.com/firmware/ota/v3.1/edge/ovms3.bin
Regards, Mark
Well thanks for the question. I just looked back in history and the install was Oct 2016. The milage then to now is just a hair under 2000 miles. So what does that mean, what is CAC and whats high and whats low?
Ah, I'm on the latest firmware but you mean the latest latest firmware. Edge. I get it. I'm a bit SW myself.
OK I might try that as time allows. Funny the doc leads the software in this case, that does not happen at my place.
Thanks very much for the answer and we eagerly await the next ...
Hoping somebody can help me. My new OVMS 3 worked great for a week or two, always on Wifi. I don't have good cell service here. It connected to the Wifi automatically every time I got home and I got notifications on my phone. Now it no longer works. I can go into the wireless network settings on my desktop and connect to OVMS to enable an access point. So far so good but then when I try to open the browser page http://192.168.4.1 it won't connect and just times out. Not sure where to go from here... TIA for any help.
One thing I've noticed is that the overall network routing can get confused as to where to send traffic, resulting in timeouts. If the module is connected to your home network, try attaching to it on that address, instead of connecting directly to the module's WiFi on the OVMS SSID and using the 192.168.4.1 address. You should be able to see the module's address on the home network if you have an i-thing (iPhone, Mac, etc.), or with a "Bonjour" mDNS service browser app on Android. Not sure what a Windows machine would see. Failing all that, log into your router and perhaps it will tell you what the module's IP is.
Your phrase "connect to OVMS to enable an access point" confuses me. Do you mean that you see SSID "OVMS" as an available network on your desktop computer, which means the OVMS device is acting as an access point? If you connect to that SSID with your desktop, what address gets assigned?
There are some problems with WiFi operation on the OVMS device still at this point. Mine works at home for a while, connecting to the home network, but then it gets into a state where I can't connect to the device over WiFi. When I connect a USB cable to look at the device status with my laptop I find that it is continuously looping trying to bring up Server V2 and failing. To fix this requires stopping and restarting the WiFi component on OVMS using console commands, or simply resetting the OVMS device.
Some improvements to the WiFi code are coming in a new release of the firmware.
Rotarypower
Member
Just got mine last week, first time user. A few things....first, I set mine up to early access program mode (eap) which will download updates that have not been public tested. I had good luck with v3.1.008 but lots of obvious bugs but functional. Was hoping to jump on the early version of v3.1.009 to get some of those bug fixes. Well that was a mistake, as OVMS quit working right after the update . Also, it wasn’t running a WiFi AP, so no way to easily fix the issue. Had to pull it out of the car and remove the cover to manually reset the unit. After that, I was able to revert to v3.1.008 and turn off eap mode, but now the unit is back up and running. How is yours setup? Maybe a hard reset is in order?
The other thing, noticed my iPad would sometimes be logged into my home router vs. the OVMS WiFi AP....make sure you are connected to the OVMS WiFi AP, and not your home network when wanting to get into the OVMS setup. Sometimes I also noticed the iPad would unexpectedly bounce between connecting to the OVMS WiFi AP and my home network, at times unpredictable. I had to go into my WiFi setup on the iPad and disable auto-connect for the OVMS WiFi AP, as I always want it on my home network by default. Finally the OVMS WiFi AP is pretty weak so if you want to connect reliably to it you should be near the car.....several times in my den I was connected but it would not be able to communicate unless I got up and went into the garage. And yes, if you can find the IP of the OVMS on your network, you can connect that way too. I have an ASUS home router and using their APP, it gives me a list of all connected devices. On my network, the OVMS showed up with the device name of “espressif”.
By the way, great device...looking forward to diving into it. I think the APP has a lot of potential growing room! I see a lot of features ( GUI based, one click) that could be added, hopefully that is in the master plan.
The other thing, noticed my iPad would sometimes be logged into my home router vs. the OVMS WiFi AP....make sure you are connected to the OVMS WiFi AP, and not your home network when wanting to get into the OVMS setup. Sometimes I also noticed the iPad would unexpectedly bounce between connecting to the OVMS WiFi AP and my home network, at times unpredictable. I had to go into my WiFi setup on the iPad and disable auto-connect for the OVMS WiFi AP, as I always want it on my home network by default. Finally the OVMS WiFi AP is pretty weak so if you want to connect reliably to it you should be near the car.....several times in my den I was connected but it would not be able to communicate unless I got up and went into the garage. And yes, if you can find the IP of the OVMS on your network, you can connect that way too. I have an ASUS home router and using their APP, it gives me a list of all connected devices. On my network, the OVMS showed up with the device name of “espressif”.
By the way, great device...looking forward to diving into it. I think the APP has a lot of potential growing room! I see a lot of features ( GUI based, one click) that could be added, hopefully that is in the master plan.
Last edited:
Yes.
I don't know. How do I find out? Running Windows 10. It doesn't show up at all on my router but I assumed that was normal because OVMS is a different network.
I can't afford the time to reset the device every couple of weeks and then go through all the setup steps again. Where would I find the console commands to stop and restart the Wifi component?
Thanks for your help.
Hmmpf. Interesting.
If you can get into the module at some point (say, after the next reset), go to the "Shell" tab and enter 'network status" and it should tell you all the IP addresses it has, on the various interfaces.
If you're seeing the "OVMS" SSID as available to connect to, that's AP mode. If the module is connected to your home network, that's client mode. It's possible to have either or both enabled independently. Some have reported issues when both are enabled, but it's working fine for me, with that one caveat about dual connections. If the AP mode is on and you connect to it while on the road (so, the module and your cell phone are both also connected to the cell network at the same time), you may have to disable the cell data connection on your phone in order to get the wifi connection to the module (on 192.168.4.1) to not time out. I've seen the same at home, if the module is set for AP+Client mode and you try to connect to it on OVMS, sometimes the routing gets confused and you get a timeout. So, at home, I always go in via the home network side; that always seems to work. AP mode is best just for viewing the Dashboard while on the road.
The 3.1.009 release to EAP had some problems with Tesla Roadster vehicle support (related to the new digital speedo function). It was pulled over the weekend, and replaced with 3.1.010 that seems to fix the issue.
Regards, Mark.
If you have a home network reachable from the module, it is simplest to just ignore Access Point mode (more trouble than it is worth) and stick with a simple wifi client configuration. So long as the wifi.ssid entry is set correctly, and wifi is set to "Scanning Client" mode, it will connect to your wifi network whenever in range. It will also prefer wifi over cellular (to save cellular charges).
To reset the wifi, "power wifi off" then "wifi mode client" (assuming scanning client mode).
To check status, either "network status" or "wifi status" will provide details of IP addresses being used.
Announcement: 3 CAN bus (+K-line) OVMS data cable for early Teslas (roadster, and S before autumn 2014)
Since the very start of OVMS, we've used the same 4 pin data cable that provided power, ground, and the instrumentation CAN bus (high and low) signals. While the car has 3 main CAN buses (+ K-line, etc), we only connected one because OVMS v1 and v2 only had support for one CAN bus. Pretty much everything we wanted was on that one bus anyway.
Then, along came Model S and Model X with 4 main CAN buses, and OVMS v3 with support for 3 CAN buses. Time for a new cable.
OVMS Data Cable for Early Teslas - official OVMS parts / Tesla Roadster v1.x/v2.x/v3.x & early Model S compatible
Pinout is:
For Tesla Roadsters, this brings in the same CAN1 (instrumentation, TPMS) bus we have always had access to, but adds access to CAN2 (HVAC, and ESS) and CAN3 (gearshift, switchpack, ABS, and PEM). It also wires in the K-line that is used by the TPMS ECU.
For Tesla Model S, this brings access to the Powertrain, Chassis, and Body Fault Tolerant CAN buses, as well as K-line.
12V constant power and ground is also brought in. It is actually a pretty nice cable for general hacking around on Tesla CAN buses. We plan to make a new connector style version available for post autumn 2014 Model S and X cars, once we have identified a reasonably priced source for the car-side connectors. The old (1 CAN bus) cable is still up on Fasttech, but will not be made anymore.
Adding support for K-line will require a modification to the OVMS module itself; This is a very simple 1 wire link between DB9 pin #1 and an internal expansion pin (GEP#7 - either pin #10 of internal expansion connector, or pin #21 of DA26) that anyone with basic soldering skills can do. We are arranging for OVMS v3 modules in future to have that link already in place. Also required will be an optional internal expansion board, and we are working on this using a MC33660 K-Line transceiver (prototypes are ready - just working on firmware support for K-line protocol).
For OVMS on Model S and X, this new cable will be required. We already support it, and use the second chassis CAN bus to pickup GPS location.
For Tesla Roadster, we hope to be able to use this new cable to provide access to full battery diagnostics (individual cell voltages and temperatures) as well as possibly some other fun stuff. Time will tell, and it is early days for this. As the Roadsters age, and Tesla seems to have forgotten about the car, our focus is on providing detailed diagnostic information for these vehicles, to help owners to help themselves.
Regards, Mark
Since the very start of OVMS, we've used the same 4 pin data cable that provided power, ground, and the instrumentation CAN bus (high and low) signals. While the car has 3 main CAN buses (+ K-line, etc), we only connected one because OVMS v1 and v2 only had support for one CAN bus. Pretty much everything we wanted was on that one bus anyway.
Then, along came Model S and Model X with 4 main CAN buses, and OVMS v3 with support for 3 CAN buses. Time for a new cable.
OVMS Data Cable for Early Teslas - official OVMS parts / Tesla Roadster v1.x/v2.x/v3.x & early Model S compatible
Pinout is:
- 173851-2 DB9 -F Signal
- ------------- --------- --------
- 1 7 CAN0-H
- 2 8 CAN2-H
- 3 1 K-Line
- 4 5 CAN1-H
- 6 2 CAN0-L
- 7 6 CAN2-L
- 9 3 GND
- 10 9 +12V
- 11 4 CAN1-L
- Cable: 30cm in length, 9 core
- DB9-F: Moulded
- 173851-2: Heat-shrink tubing to protect end of cable
- Label: "OVT1" in black-on-white lettering, shrink to cable
For Tesla Roadsters, this brings in the same CAN1 (instrumentation, TPMS) bus we have always had access to, but adds access to CAN2 (HVAC, and ESS) and CAN3 (gearshift, switchpack, ABS, and PEM). It also wires in the K-line that is used by the TPMS ECU.
For Tesla Model S, this brings access to the Powertrain, Chassis, and Body Fault Tolerant CAN buses, as well as K-line.
12V constant power and ground is also brought in. It is actually a pretty nice cable for general hacking around on Tesla CAN buses. We plan to make a new connector style version available for post autumn 2014 Model S and X cars, once we have identified a reasonably priced source for the car-side connectors. The old (1 CAN bus) cable is still up on Fasttech, but will not be made anymore.
Adding support for K-line will require a modification to the OVMS module itself; This is a very simple 1 wire link between DB9 pin #1 and an internal expansion pin (GEP#7 - either pin #10 of internal expansion connector, or pin #21 of DA26) that anyone with basic soldering skills can do. We are arranging for OVMS v3 modules in future to have that link already in place. Also required will be an optional internal expansion board, and we are working on this using a MC33660 K-Line transceiver (prototypes are ready - just working on firmware support for K-line protocol).
For OVMS on Model S and X, this new cable will be required. We already support it, and use the second chassis CAN bus to pickup GPS location.
For Tesla Roadster, we hope to be able to use this new cable to provide access to full battery diagnostics (individual cell voltages and temperatures) as well as possibly some other fun stuff. Time will tell, and it is early days for this. As the Roadsters age, and Tesla seems to have forgotten about the car, our focus is on providing detailed diagnostic information for these vehicles, to help owners to help themselves.
Regards, Mark
Attachments
backmost
Member
shrink
Member
So, if I can't solder, what are my options?
Does this mean ACC will soon go live? I actually haven't installed my OVMS 3 yet because I need ACC.
Does this mean ACC will soon go live? I actually haven't installed my OVMS 3 yet because I need ACC.
The k-line on Roadster would only be necessary to access TPMS ECU for re-programming tire IDs. Even then, we don't currently know the technique to do it, so that is entirely theoretical. Don't worry about it.
I don't think ACC will come to v3, as it was in v2. Just too limited and restrictive. In v3, we have the scripting system, and we are building that into something much more powerful.
What ACC functions do you need? What was your ACC profile in v2?
I'm not a Windows person, so I'll tell you the geek method for finding the assigned IP address which is to open a Command Prompt window and enter the command ipconfig. You are correct that the desktop computer won't show up on your router when it is connected to the OVMS access point.
Sorry my use of the term "reset" was unclear. I don't mean a factory reset, just a reset by pushing the reset button (the little S2 pushbutton on the module) or alternatively by removing power by disconnecting the cable that goes to the diagnostic port. When the module restarts after the reset the WiFi will come back up in the configuration that you have set.
Since accessing the S2 pushbutton on the module inside its case is inconvenient, I modified my case by cutting a hole directly above S2 and installing a plastic rod to push on the button. The rod I used was the reset button from a discarded hair dryer GFCI plug which happened to be the right length and shape (after one minor modification) and already had the word RESET embossed on the top.
An alternative implementation would be to install a pushbutton switch on the case somewhere and run wires to the board in parallel with S2.Mark already responded with the commands to reset the WiFi. I use "wifi mode off" and "wifi mode client Revelstoke", where Revelstoke is the SSID for my home network.
Similar threads
- Article
