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Hello all, I just got my roadster 2 days ago and installed the OVMS. It is showing 80%, ideal range 140m and estimated range 93m.I select standard and 70 Amps on the charge settings. Is that correct? I am using a portable EV charger and a Tesla adapter 70AMP sticker.
On my Tesla model 3 app, I can move the battery bar and move the max charged battery level. Is that what Standard, Range and Perform does?
Im not sure why the hologram is still activating... (it has only been 1 hour though)
I tried to lock the card and pin 1234.. it does not work. I notice the PEM and voltage has been fluctuating.
11.1v and 87F on PEM. 12.7V and 68F PEM. shall I be concern?
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You can leave the car set at 70A (or as selected in OVMS), but the current you get is whatever your portable charger is able to deliver, which will be less.
Range mode is all the way full. Standard mode is roughly like selecting 90% on the Model 3, but the Roadster battery icon gets re-scaled in standard mode to again use the full range of the icon.
Those PEM temps are not a problem.
Range mode is all the way full. Standard mode is roughly like selecting 90% on the Model 3, but the Roadster battery icon gets re-scaled in standard mode to again use the full range of the icon.
Those PEM temps are not a problem.
The car has a built-in capability to start charging at a specified time. This is set on the VDS (the little display) when you have the charge cable plugged in.
Thats a very good point. I was at dmv for car registration today and it took me a while to find the button changing range to current millage on the car. hahhaha.
when i open the door and wake the car up. I hear the fan turn on and liquid dripping noise at the back. Is that normal as well? I don’t understand why the fan will turn on. It is so cold.
when i open the door and wake the car up. I hear the fan turn on and liquid dripping noise at the back. Is that normal as well? I don’t understand why the fan will turn on. It is so cold.
It's not a fan but, rather, just the coolant circulation pump turning on since the car's been asleep. Perfectly normal. If you want to see it in action, pop the trunk and leave it open until the car goes to sleep again. Then, wake the car by opening the charge port door or pressing unlock on your fob (or issue the wakeup command via the OVMS app!) and keep an eye on the coolant reservoir on the top right side next to the ESS.
The voltage being reported is going to change depending on whether the car is awake or asleep. 13-ish when awake, 11.3-ish when asleep. The exact values depend on your OVMS unit's calibration, and could be off a little.
Unlike on ICE cars, the car has several separate "12v" segments, controlled by the switch pack. And unlike the other Tesla models, the 2.x Roadsters maintain the actual 12v battery at a 13.8v "float charge" level all the time. The battery is not cycled on a daily basis. What the OVMS is seeing is one of the segments that fluctuates depending on the state of the car. It's not the actual battery voltage.
Sorry i got one more newbie question.
When i charge the car with the 110 outlet with Tesla adapter(the seller gave me this), it is pretty loud. I was told this is normal.
Since the car is working so hard to charge, 220v will reduce the charge time.
Is 220 charging better than 110 charging? It will reduce the “usage” Or, im thinking too much?
When i charge the car with the 110 outlet with Tesla adapter(the seller gave me this), it is pretty loud. I was told this is normal.
Since the car is working so hard to charge, 220v will reduce the charge time.
Is 220 charging better than 110 charging? It will reduce the “usage” Or, im thinking too much?
If you look around in this forum you'll find the most common recommendation is to charge at 220V and 24-32A. This is more efficient than charging at 110 or a lower amperage because the charging duration is shorter so the overhead is spent for less time. It also allows the A/C to run for proper cooling of the battery in summer. And it stresses the battery less than higher currents.
You may find that charging at 110 will fill the battery slightly higher than at 220, but that is not significant.
You may find that charging at 110 will fill the battery slightly higher than at 220, but that is not significant.
@markwj might have an answer, but there are a few other threads on TPMS if you search for "tire monitor" or TPMS. I think there is an update to the OVMS, but not sure if it requires new hardware or if not yet available...
When you asked about purchasing OVMS, I replied with the suggestion to buy the configuration including the TPMS add-on board. If you did that, then OVMS can communicate with the TPMS devices. I have no experience with that as I have a 1.5.
I believe the message you showed may also just be the result of the battery in one of the in-wheel sensors depleting. The sensors need to be replaced after 7 or 8 years, usually when you buy new tires.
Presumably you get this message 20 minutes into a drive? If so, and you have OVMS, please post the CAR tab screenshot, after a few minutes of driving. Rough analysis:
- If you see one bright white pair of pressures, and one dark gray, you have a problem in the antenna serving the pair marked gray. Probably the usual config corruption. OVMS+TPMS option can re-program that for you. The Tesla Service centre could also do it, although they will probably tell you that your antenna is broken (it isn't) and sell you a new one.
- If you just have one tyre gray, and the others bright white, then most likely the battery in that sensor is dead. They last about 5 years (give or take a few). Once replaced, the IDs will need to be programmed (or the sensor cloned). Either OVMS+TPMS or Tesla Service is needed to do that.
- If it is all gray, or you get the error message immediately (rather than after 20 minutes of driving) then perhaps your TPMS ECU or cabling is damaged. Tesla Service required for that one.
i got the OVMS v3 - OVMS v3 with K-Line expansion board installed
Thanks i will do some driving this weekend and keep you posted. I noticed there is a new tire tab. I selected that and hopefully it will be fixed magically hahahah.
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I suggest, with the car ignition on and car in park, you do a 'tpms read' to retrieve the 4 tyre IDs. You can also 'tpms read winter' to read them and store them as 'winter' tyre set.
If you have the antenna corruption bug (only top or bottom half of pressures showing after a short drive), you can then 'tpms write winter' to try to re-program and fix it.
Regards, Mark.
Great News! I typed read tpms and tpms read winter. It seems like the error message is gone.
On the app. I noticed the top two box is blank when the key is in the car. I took out the key and the top right box shows 30.1psi but the top left box is still blank.
On the app. I noticed the top two box is blank when the key is in the car. I took out the key and the top right box shows 30.1psi but the top left box is still blank.
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I don't think pushing in the key or pulling it out makes a difference. Turning the car on makes a difference. You may also be seeing some changes just based on waiting long enough.
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