Heck, you should have seen what it took to get him to climb the ladder to sign it up there!
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Our HPWC Set-Up
- Thread starter Ziggy2
- Start date
Heck, you should have seen what it took to get him to climb the ladder to sign it up there!
The footage of his landing after jumping off the ladder was spectacular!Heck, you should have seen what it took to get him to climb the ladder to sign it up there!
StealthP3D
Well-Known Member
Heck, you should have seen what it took to get him to climb the ladder to sign it up there!
The pinky finger of a SEC regulator in a vial of formaldehyde?
1.) Does the cable still reach out to the drive way... I often have to access charging out of the garage. Placing the charger at the front inside wall of the garage allows the cable to reach the cars in both bays as well as the driveway.
2.) Please follow the advice given above about rewiring your system to NOT ENERGIZE the white conductor.... you could seriously injure an unwitting person servicing the system. White is ALWAYS neutral..... ALWAYS (especially important for the more lethal 240VAC).
3.) It is a really, really bad idea to use a spring retractor reel to coil your high voltage high AC current charger cable. They are designed for 110VAC and a few amps (less than 10). I doubt that the commutator in the reel could handle the load and not burn. Could also then create a shock or fire hazard.....
There are clear instruction "on line" and from Tesla (or any code book) on how to safely to do this as DIY.... suggest you try that while you still have all your fingers .... : :>)
Bill
2.) Please follow the advice given above about rewiring your system to NOT ENERGIZE the white conductor.... you could seriously injure an unwitting person servicing the system. White is ALWAYS neutral..... ALWAYS (especially important for the more lethal 240VAC).
3.) It is a really, really bad idea to use a spring retractor reel to coil your high voltage high AC current charger cable. They are designed for 110VAC and a few amps (less than 10). I doubt that the commutator in the reel could handle the load and not burn. Could also then create a shock or fire hazard.....
There are clear instruction "on line" and from Tesla (or any code book) on how to safely to do this as DIY.... suggest you try that while you still have all your fingers .... : :>)
Bill
eprosenx
Active Member
Actually, there is a moving part inside. It is the "contactor" which turns the power off and on.
Now I doubt it will be an issue with vibration from the garage door opener, but I just figured I would point it out. ;-)
One guy on the forums had his go bad and he tracked down the manufacturer and actually sourced a replacement. ;-)
Um, what the hell? Did you not read any of the previous comments about this? It was already mentioned multiple times that the white is disconnected and not being used.
No one is using one of those live electrified cord reels. This is literally just a hook with a cable looped over it.
I appreciate that you value safety, but you're giving a lot of irrelevant advice here.
FurryOne
Member
Actually, he could have easily ran 4/2 Romex, in which case the White & Black would be both hot. Also, there are other wiring cases where you can use the White wire as hot, but you're req paint the jacket black to indicate that.
Thanks for chiming in here. You are correct on all counts. Here is what were using to pull down from ceiling when complete:
PACKERS KROMER Tool Retractor, 1.1-4.4Lb - 38N817|7211-01 - Grainger (Got a good price through work, wanted steel cable and longer length to accommodate ceiling mount.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BU789PY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ostrichsak
Well-Known Member
Cap off the white and leave it be. Your two conductors need to be marked as such (read: not white, green or bare) at both ends. Black electric tape will be good enough or if you have colored electrical tape you can make one of them red on both ends if you know which is which for future reference and trouble shooting. If the wiring is black, white, red & green/bare you're good if the white is capped off on both ends. Just cap the white and use the black and red wires as your conductors in that instance.
Where is the shut-off switch? Code varies but I think you need to be within visual site of the breaker which may be on a nearby wall but not pictured. Otherwise you'll need to install a switch that can be used to manually cut power in an emergency. If your panel w/the breaker isn't nearby I don't see a very aesthetic solution for adding one to your current setup. It looks good and very functional other than that though.
Where is the shut-off switch? Code varies but I think you need to be within visual site of the breaker which may be on a nearby wall but not pictured. Otherwise you'll need to install a switch that can be used to manually cut power in an emergency. If your panel w/the breaker isn't nearby I don't see a very aesthetic solution for adding one to your current setup. It looks good and very functional other than that though.
No need. He said it's a 60A breaker, and code says a cutoff is only required if it is more than a 60A circuit.
eprosenx
Active Member
As @Rocky_H mentions, this is only required above 60a.
But even if a locking disconnect was required, it only has to be “readily accessible” (per 2017 NEC) and lockable in the off position. This does *not* mean within line of sight. It just can’t be somewhere you need tools or a ladder to get to.
Some AHJ’s may interpret this differently, but I have done a lot of reading on this topic (and posted the code references on this forum many times) and I am pretty sure I am correct.
So you can just use a little metal clip in the breaker panel that covers the breaker and call it good. Costs like $5 and takes a couple minutes to install.
Correct, and our breaker box is only 15 feet away on the side wall, so it wasn't a big deal. The location was ideal as it only required two holes to be drilled for the wiring and a small piece of drywall to be removed, plus all of the other code required pieces for safety.
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