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P+ Horrible 0-60 times

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So I gave it a go earlier while still above 95% charge and best I got is 3.57(3.25 w 1’)
Don’t get me wrong the car feels strong which is why I’m surprised to see those numbers. Yes it’ll leave most cars in the dust but that’s not the point. Should I be seeing better times?

Something is going on with your car, it's either traction or something is ****ed up. If you look at how your g-forces are slowly ramping up in the beginning from zero miles an hour, that should not be happening. It should almost instantly go up to about 1G and fluctuate a little bit up and down from there. There should be no ramp up to 1G; it's instant.

What specific brand of tire and size are you running? And what is the specific wheel size that you are using? And do you have 0-60 logs from the stock setup?

And just out of curiosity, do you have obstacle aware acceleration disabled in the menu?
 
So I gave it a go earlier while still above 95% charge and best I got is 3.57(3.25 w 1’)
Don’t get me wrong the car feels strong which is why I’m surprised to see those numbers. Yes it’ll leave most cars in the dust but that’s not the point. Should I be seeing better times?

Just a thought, something I noticed while testing out mine. Once you are at a complete stop, do not brake-toqrue it as you would normally do for ICE cars. I found that brake-toqrue will kill the 0-60 time especially at the initial stage. Simply just floor the accelerator pedal and off you go.
 
Tires are Michelin pilot sport 4s 275/30 on 20x10 wheels. Fronts are 20x8.5 with factory tires. The obstacle award acceleration is disabled. Should I enable it?

I would leave it disabled personally.

Looks like those tires are 29 pounds each, so it's around 4 pounds each more than stock. so that's not terrible, but it probably negates any weight savings from your wheels.
 
If the road is dry, acceleration isn't traction limited with this car.
Pick a level road, mash the go pedal, do it more than once in both directions.
Make sure your dragy or whatever you use is attached firmly in the car and is level and has a good view of the sky to pick up the GPS signals.
If all else fails, video a run and show us so we can see what's happening.
 
0-60 times are like gas mileage numbers.

Somewhere, sometime, under perfect conditions, with a test driver who weighs 90 pounds, one particular car did manage to achieve the numbers that end up on the window sticker. They either had a battery at full charge and at the perfect temperature, (or were using real gasoline with no ethanol). But it'll be nearly impossible for you to get those same numbers.

In the same way that I look at any gas mileage rating and automatically subtract 3-4 mpg, I tend to think the real 0-60 will be a tenth or two slower.
 
Interesting comment, since a 200 lb. passenger makes almost exactly a 0.2 second difference in 1/4 mile time:
1/4 Mile ET Calculator

We also don’t know whether the road had an incline at all, or what other factors there may have been. To suggest that something is wrong with the OP’s “horrible” car based on a couple of posts is a stretch at best...
https://robrobinette.com/et.htm

I was about to post that but couldn't find a link to back it up. I remember from my drag racing days that every 100 pounds added basically equaled a loss of about a tenth in the quarter mile, and one car length.
 
If the road is dry, acceleration isn't traction limited with this car.

This is not true at all.

I can go out in front of my house and the best possible time is a 3.1 with rollout, on what appears to be perfectly conditioned asphalt.

Then, I can drive 2 blocks over and turn 2.97 & 2.98 with rollouts all day long, on asphalt that looks rougher
 
Just a thought, something I noticed while testing out mine. Once you are at a complete stop, do not brake-toqrue it as you would normally do for ICE cars. I found that brake-toqrue will kill the 0-60 time especially at the initial stage. Simply just floor the accelerator pedal and off you go.

Good point. Maybe the OP is using creep mode so he has to brake torque at the start.

Also, OP: what tire pressure are you running? You might get better traction off-the-line with lower pressures.
 
I would leave it disabled personally.

Looks like those tires are 29 pounds each, so it's around 4 pounds each more than stock. so that's not terrible, but it probably negates any weight savings from your wheels.

Heavier tires are more of an impact than heavier wheels of the same weight increase. Weight farther from the hub makes for a larger moment of intertia (the moment of inertia equation contains a length squared component). Plus he's going up a hill. Plus we have no idea how good the surface is.
 
upload_2020-3-8_19-55-38-png.519399

Here is where I had it attached.