P3D+ @ NCCAR HPDE

[MasterC17]

I took my P3D+ to NCCAR in Garysburg, NC, for a HPDE with Out of Spec Motoring.

Mods:

• Model S Calipers & Rotors w/ Hawk DTC-70 Track Pads
• APEX ARC-8 18x9.5" Wheels & 275/40/18 Nexen N Fera SUR4G Tires
• Motul RBF600 Brake Fluid

My fastest lap was a 1:39.570. There was a lot left on the table but I only got in a total of 15 laps in so I was still trying to gauge the track and the limits of the car (I have not driven here before).

Consumption: 1,350-1,400 wh/mi; higher than I expected but there is a pretty long straight.

Takeaways:

• The Model 3 needs camber in a bad way. The edges of my tires, especially the fronts, were chewed up quite bad. That is definitely next on my priority list as I don't want to ruin new tires.
• The car is predictable, though I will say driving is a bit odd with so much regen, this is definitely a car where you steer with the throttle and you do not want to fully let off mid-corner (unless you would like to drift).
• Power becomes limited fairly quickly but (and here is the important bit) remains very consistent thereafter. Speed at the end of the front straight was consistently between 118-122. I found that the amount it limited power was also not very high, probably in the realm of 5% or so.
• It's quite capable on the track. As you can see in the video, a Ferrari 488GTB could not get away (now, given the right driver I am sure it could, but the point remains). I am looking forward to running some clean, dry laps at VIR.
• Overall, the Model 3 proves that EV's are track-capable vehicles and with the proper hardware (pads and tires mostly), and adequate charging capacity, you can have fun, go fast, and not burn gas. I bought the car for this exact purpose, and so far it is proving to be better than expected. Kudos to Tesla, the car is fantastic.

Video:

 

[MasterC17]

Oh and one important bit a lot of people may miss; drop your tire pressures!

Tesla spec is 42-45psi cold depending on your build date which is WAY too high for the track (but good for range). Start around 32psi and you will run both faster and safer out there.

 

[Zoomit]

Power becomes limited fairly quickly but (and here is the important bit) remains very consistent thereafter. Speed at the end of the front straight was consistently between 118-122. I found that the amount it limited power was also not very high, probably in the realm of 5% or so.

Thanks for the update. A slight power loss could definitely be attributable to lower battery charge after a few laps, not a thermal limit. Were you starting each session at the same state of charge?

 

[MasterC17]

Thanks for the update. A slight power loss could definitely be attributable to lower battery charge after a few laps, not a thermal limit. Were you starting each session at the same state of charge?

I was using a NEMA 14-50 outlet, so no, though it seemed to limit power fairly consistently. Again the good news is that (even down to 20%) it never became further limited.

First Session: 77%
Second Session: 67%
Third Session: 58%

 

[wenkan]

I would like to know if there is any easy option for improving the support from seats. Fighting with the G force is quite distracting and uncomfortable.

 

[MasterC17]

I would like to know if there is any easy option for improving the support from seats. Fighting with the G force is quite distracting and uncomfortable.

Try setting easy-entry (or a separate profile) with the seat quite a ways back. Pull the seat-belt tight across your chest and then tug on it right next to the reel downward to lock it in place. With it still locked, change profiles (or turn the car on). The seat will move forward and this will keep you locked in place. Just don't go too far and squish yourself lol

 

[wenkan]

Try setting easy-entry (or a separate profile) with the seat quite a ways back. Pull the seat-belt tight across your chest and then tug on it right next to the reel downward to lock it in place. With it still locked, change profiles (or turn the car on). The seat will move forward and this will keep you locked in place. Just don't go too far and squish yourself lol

Besides this, is there any easy attachment on the seats I can use? Like something attached to the hard back of the seat and providing support on my shoulders? Or aftermarket 5 point harness that can be attached to the seat?

Otherwise the solution may have to take the seat off the internal driver profile system. If some aftermarket electrical sport seats have memory function by themselves, it may be ok to replace the stock driver seat as no one else driving my car and I don’t adjust the seat position in easy entry.

 

[brianman]

I would like to know if there is any easy option for improving the support from seats. Fighting with the G force is quite distracting and uncomfortable.

In the 3, I find that yanking the seat belt as tight as I can manage forces me down into the seat which gives an artificial bolstering effect. Nowhere near as effective as the actual bolstering in the Next Gen (S P85D) or Next Next Gen (S P100D, ventilated) seats, but worth doing.

 

[MasterC17]

Besides this, is there any easy attachment on the seats I can use? Like something attached to the hard back of the seat and providing support on my shoulders? Or aftermarket 5 point harness that can be attached to the seat?

Otherwise the solution may have to take the seat off the internal driver profile system. If some aftermarket electrical sport seats have memory function by themselves, it may be ok to replace the stock driver seat as no one else driving my car and I don’t adjust the seat position in easy entry.

The long and short is no. The way the seats are designed no aftermarket harness would provide you with both stability and safety.

Additionally, it's not as easy as just replacing the seat. There are occupancy sensors in both front seats, along with airbags, etc. You can't just throw a seat in and call it a day.

The only other option to look into is CG Lock: CG Lock Seat Belt Performance Add-On

 

[Zcd1]

...The only other option to look into is CG Lock: CG Lock Seat Belt Performance Add-On

I've used the CG Lock and found it to be "meh" overall. It works, but not that much better than the "cinch the belt tight and then move the seat forward" method. I know, my opinion may be in the minority, but that's my $0.02...

 

[Zoomit]

CG Lock doesn’t fit Model 3 without modifying it

 

[MasterC17]

CG Lock doesn’t fit Model 3 without modifying it

Good to know, sounds like locking the seat belt is our best option.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Hey! I was there too with my P3D+! My car was completely stock, so interesting to compare. I ran the first session without track mode and quickly noticed the power being limited, likely by heat. I ran the second and third sessions with track mode on and wasn't limited again. The power level did go down as the SOC went down, but that's just due to normal voltage decreases. I think it might have helped me, since I'm a novice driver and having slightly less power meant I could focus more on driving smoothly. Still, it hit pretty hard even down to 9 miles of range left! That's when I figured I'd better pull off the track before the car shut down...

I managed to burn through 300 miles of range in 3 sessions! I got in 31 laps, or 62 miles. I charged at 240V 32A between sessions, but ~20 min of charging didn't add much range, but it did cool down the battery.

I didn't know the Model S calipers and rotors bolt right up! Have you noticed an improvement? It does seem like your mods have helped, since my best time was 1:46.

 

[stickman]

I didn't know the Model S calipers and rotors bolt right up! Have you noticed an improvement? It does seem like your mods have helped, since my best time was 1:46.

don't take this the wrong way, but have you considered his times are better because he's a better driver? I'm not trying to pick on you but I've seen a number of posts where people say "I should get X because dude has X and he went way faster than me", and the most likely explanation is that the other person just has more experience and/or skill.
The second fastest person out at my last trackday was a middle aged lady in a freaking Chevy Traverse. Nobody was sitting around saying "i wonder if I should put 20" truck tires on my car.."

 

[MasterC17]

Hey! I was there too with my P3D+! My car was completely stock, so interesting to compare. I ran the first session without track mode and quickly noticed the power being limited, likely by heat. I ran the second and third sessions with track mode on and wasn't limited again. The power level did go down as the SOC went down, but that's just due to normal voltage decreases. I think it might have helped me, since I'm a novice driver and having slightly less power meant I could focus more on driving smoothly. Still, it hit pretty hard even down to 9 miles of range left! That's when I figured I'd better pull off the track before the car shut down...

I managed to burn through 300 miles of range in 3 sessions! I got in 31 laps, or 62 miles. I charged at 240V 32A between sessions, but ~20 min of charging didn't add much range, but it did cool down the battery.

I didn't know the Model S calipers and rotors bolt right up! Have you noticed an improvement? It does seem like your mods have helped, since my best time was 1:46.

Agreed, I was impressed at how consistent the power was even as SOC dropped significantly!

The S calipers and rotors are not a direct bolt-on. I am working on a kit (see my other thread) that will allow this to be done. There is no noticeable immediate improvement. The benefit is in the added thermal capacity (brakes don't overheat).

 

[n2mb_racing]

don't take this the wrong way, but have you considered his times are better because he's a better driver? I'm not trying to pick on you but I've seen a number of posts where people say "I should get X because dude has X and he went way faster than me", and the most likely explanation is that the other person just has more experience and/or skill.
The second fastest person out at my last trackday was a middle aged lady in a freaking Chevy Traverse. Nobody was sitting around saying "i wonder if I should put 20" truck tires on my car.."

Also likely true!

 

[wenkan]

Also likely true!

Have you deflated your tires?

 

[SammichLover]

I've used the CG Lock and found it to be "meh" overall. It works, but not that much better than the "cinch the belt tight and then move the seat forward" method. I know, my opinion may be in the minority, but that's my $0.02...

Not in the Model 3, I've found. I tried without it, a few ways. I even tried the super sketchy buckle-flip, which I would NOT recommend and didn't actually drive with because the belt doesn't lay proper flat on the right side of your lap after doing that.

However as @Zoomit mentioned, the CG-Lock requires a bit of craftwork to fit the Model 3. Oops, my angle grinder slipped and went off

The biggest difference from just locking the shoulder and bringing the seat forward is that your lap belt is always "just right" even if there's a bit of variable in the portion coming across your chest.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Have you deflated your tires?

I dropped them down to 40 psi cold, they got up to 47 psi hot, based on the MPP recommendations. They seemed to roll pretty far over, though. I don't know if I would go lower on the stock 20" rims and Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires.

 

[SammichLover]

I dropped them down to 40 psi cold, they got up to 47 psi hot, based on the MPP recommendations. They seemed to roll pretty far over, though. I don't know if I would go lower on the stock 20" rims and Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires.

That's an oft given knock on the PS4S. The way they are constructed they rely heavily on air pressure to support their sidewalls and are also more prone to rollover.