So, I take it that just increasing the radiator size and/or airflow won't help?
you can probably fix the rims... find a place like RIM DOCTORS ti fix them, about $100 per wheel, Ive fix my model s rims 3 times due to pot ho;les, and this is on the 19's!The car is a blast to drive on the track overall. I'm finding that the traction control really makes it hard to lose control even when driving at the edge. In my class there aren't any cars that can beat me on the straights and not so many that do better on the curves (with my stock tires and bad driver mod at least).
Heat is the main issue. A ton of power is held back once the car get's too hot. Lap 1-2 are always great, 3 is a little tight, but 4 and 5 wind up seeing what I feel is a 25% power reduction. Cars that I easily passed in early laps would be able to pass me. For a comparison, on the longest straight at Heartland Motorsports in Topeka I was hitting about 107 on most fresh-ish laps. On the laps where the car was overheating that speed dropped to the low 90s.
I'm optimistic about track mode helping but I'd be surprised if software only could resolve this problem. I think we will need some sort of aftermarket cooling solution to be really competitive. Anybody want to help design a system that sprays CO2 onto the coolant radiators when they get past a certain temp?
Bonus round. At the end of the day I plugged in to get some extra juice for the drive home and my charger decided to not work. I've been seeing intermittent "charging reduced" errors but haven't taken it in yet. At the SC now and they are replacing the onboard charger. I also routed on back roads on the way home and hit a patch with giant potholes. Turns out I have two bent rims. $1400 down the drain.
Nope. Only preparations are for you. Helmet, track insurance, etc. I didn't bother with tire pressure as I couldn't find an exact recommendation.
They are giving me the rims so I'll take them in for a possible repair after the fact and sell them or keep as spares.
I'd have to go back and look at what I normally get but at home on my 14-50 I hit 28 or so mph gain, I was getting 20 which is what I had on my 10-30 dryer outlet.
It doesn't void the warranty. If I blew up a motor on the track, then that part would be voided. Nothing about the track impacts the onboard charger.
I was wondering how it distributes power at part throttle. Does it give any priority to the rear motor (i.e. use a higher percentage of rear motor at part throttle vs. full throttle)? It seems like using the front motor as little as possible would be ideal since it's less efficient (more waste heat) and harder to cool.
I can't believe that we can't find reasonable options for passive or active cooling unless I'm vastly underestimating the heat energy the batteries produce.
I would think charging the battery while tracking, would generate more heat and be harder on the batteries. Granted you will use up and maybe overwhelm your brakes if you dont use regen?
Hard to say. I don't think we know yet if limp mode is due to battery or motor overheating.
