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P85d vs Long Range Plus. Will I miss the performance?

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205 rated miles? That’s ridiculous. That feels way more like a 75 than an 85 pack.

I run Michelin pilot sport a/s 3+. My average spirited driving is around 320 and I feel like they grip the road insanely well. I pulled a 3.0 0-60 with them before the virus hit. I had the primaries on my old Tesla (p85) and this one came with the pilot sports. They feel better.

also I’d give my left arm to be able to drive 80-85mph on the freeway. In the Seattle area it’s 60 and top at 70. That could be the extra drain 15mph makes a huge difference.

205 rated...you read that correct!

Ill have to try out the pilot sports for the next set. I went with the current setup because I drive 50k miles a year. The vehicle came with 21s but I downgraded to 19s since I didn't want to have to replace tires every few months.

80 is the average in Atlanta, if not 18 wheelers will be on your @$$! Hell even the speed limit is 70 outside of the city.

And yes I know the difference from 70-85 mph is huge when talking battery consumption.
 
@RAW84

Also is my calculating is correct you have ~70kwh battery....I am at 54kwh. Thats a 23% hit!! :eek: (not even taking into account that you've taken a 6% degradation hit)


Ya, your degradation is too much imo. Tesla’s “unlimited mile” battery warranty has proven to have no teeth in it (with respect to degradation), but I’d continue to ask them repeatedly to address it if I were you.
 
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Ya, your degradation is too much imo. Tesla’s “unlimited mile” battery warranty has proven to have no teeth in it (with respect to degradation), but I’d continue to ask them repeatedly to address it if I were you.

This is 90-62%.
AP set at 80mph. Small patch of med traffic. Ac on. Regular everyday highway driving.

C82409E7-BBA9-4C0D-97F2-3717E17D7464.jpeg
 
View attachment 567743

This is 90-62%.
AP set at 80mph. Small patch of med traffic. Ac on. Regular everyday highway driving.

View attachment 567741

Rough math...

28% reduction. 28% * 205 rated miles/98% = 58.6 rated miles

You got 48.8 real miles. 48.8/58.6 = 83%. That’s a little more efficient than my 81% which makes sense because your Wh/mi is better than mine (326 vs 352). So, ya, I think there’s more at play during your 98% to 2% experience. Be it vampire drain or an inaccurate BMS or something else.
 
Just out of curiosity have you attempted to balance your pack? I know people feel several ways about this but it’s worth a shot. Deep drain. Max charge. Deep drain (less than 10%) and finally max charge. Ideally the drain on one long drive and be ready to go when it’s done msc charging.

mine had some issues going past 95% last year. Took me four drains before it calibrated and now will max charge again giving mr my miles back. Thankfully we drive a lot.( ;pre covid)
 
I have a '15 P85D that I just bought this year. How do you know if you have + suspension?

Easiest way: Menu>Software>Additional Vehicle Information.

If you have it the very first line will say "Air Suspension Type: Plus" of not it will say "Standard" instead of plus or nothing at all if you have coil.

You can also locate the model # information on the shock tower if you're adventurous but this is much easier.
 
Easiest way: Menu>Software>Additional Vehicle Information.

If you have it the very first line will say "Air Suspension Type: Plus" of not it will say "Standard" instead of plus or nothing at all if you have coil.

You can also locate the model # information on the shock tower if you're adventurous but this is much easier.


Cool, turns out I do have Plus. Now I'm curious what the non-plus is like. From what I've read some people really hate the non-plus. Guess I'll, probably, never know.
 
Point being, the P3D still wasn't walked like it would if the MS had less usage.
actually yes the P3D would be walked. In a 1/4 mile at the trap each tenth is about a car length. That Model S would be 6 car lengths ahead of a model 3 P , also known as about 95 feet, also known as 2 bus lengths.

Ever lose a race when the loss was measured in bus lengths? That's getting walked.

With the Model S trapping much higher, it would also absolutely crush the P3D in a roll race from any speed.

Let's not pretend the P3D is anything like a P100D...it's more like a first gen P85D non ludicrous.
 
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Cool, turns out I do have Plus. Now I'm curious what the non-plus is like. From what I've read some people really hate the non-plus. Guess I'll, probably, never know.

Ive never driven the + suspension but do have the regular air suspension. I think anything tighter would be too tight. Keep in mind most of my miles are highway miles so I am not trying to throw the car around curves. Your results may vary.

...it's more like a first gen P85D non ludicrous.

....which is still no slouch.
 
Hmm. I honestly dont know what my wh/mi needs to be reach rated miles but 308 sounds about right.

In my experience, I believe it's about 290 wh/mi to reach rated range.

80 is the average in Atlanta, if not 18 wheelers will be on your @$$! Hell even the speed limit is 70 outside of the city.

And yes I know the difference from 70-85 mph is huge when talking battery consumption.

This is a bit of an understatement. Even the difference between 75 and 80 can be exponentially huge depending on terrain (e.g. driving up a mountain vs. down or on flat roads).
 
Depends on you. I had a P90D. NEVER used the power except when showing off to passengers that hadn't experienced. Paid $20K extra solely for that as I never had any personal use for it. 3.7 0-60 MPH is still faster than 95% of cars on the road. Even in my 100D Raven (Long Range, sorry). I never use all the power that it has.

Me personally, haven't missed it even once. Yet have $20,000 left over from the purchase.

For some, they love using it daily. My car still accelerates quite rapidly, but it doesn't have quite the same, plant your brains in the back of your head feel to it. But still very quick and far more than I need in my daily driving.

If that helps.
 
Cool, turns out I do have Plus. Now I'm curious what the non-plus is like. From what I've read some people really hate the non-plus. Guess I'll, probably, never know.
I've owned several of both and my personal opinion is that if you plan to treat the car like you would a sports car it's nice. If you plan to treat the car more like a highway cruiser the standard air suspension is better. Having logged tens of thousands of miles across mixed city and long (5,000+ mile) road trips in all seasons across every type of suspension I'd say it's not night and day difference though. The base air suspension is better than the coils but the coils handle certain things every-so-slightly better than the air suspension. These instances are rare though and IMO you want the air suspension for all of the other benefits you get along with a more compliant ride through most instances. The plus handles corners better and feels more "planted" and "sporty" overall. This comes at a slightly harsher ride which is only noticeable on longer road trips where you're clicking off hundreds (or thousands) of miles over a day or two. For my P85DL+ it's not daily driven or taken on long road trips so I prefer it for that use since I'd likely have some sort of a sports car in it's place anyway. For our 90D it's the car we take when we go out-of-town or on long road trips and a standard luxury sedan would likely take it's place if we didn't have that car. Again, these differences aren't super drastic and even driving them back to back I think it takes a discerning driver to know the difference in standard day-to-day driving.
 
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actually yes the P3D would be walked. In a 1/4 mile at the trap each tenth is about a car length. That Model S would be 6 car lengths ahead of a model 3 P , also known as about 95 feet, also known as 2 bus lengths.

Ever lose a race when the loss was measured in bus lengths? That's getting walked.

With the Model S trapping much higher, it would also absolutely crush the P3D in a roll race from any speed.

Let's not pretend the P3D is anything like a P100D...it's more like a first gen P85D non ludicrous.


The P100D driver’s reaction times were so bad. Grandpa needs to retire from the track.
 
Depends on you. I had a P90D. NEVER used the power except when showing off to passengers that hadn't experienced. Paid $20K extra solely for that as I never had any personal use for it. 3.7 0-60 MPH is still faster than 95% of cars on the road. Even in my 100D Raven (Long Range, sorry). I never use all the power that it has.

Me personally, haven't missed it even once. Yet have $20,000 left over from the purchase.

For some, they love using it daily. My car still accelerates quite rapidly, but it doesn't have quite the same, plant your brains in the back of your head feel to it. But still very quick and far more than I need in my daily driving.

If that helps.


Yeah I was in a similar boat but the numbers were different for me. When I started looking my only requirement was 85KWh battery and autopilot. I initially thought I could get done around $35k but as I was looking, it turned out that was hard to find. It seemed that actually 85s with AP were being offered in the low $40s (say around $42k) and the P85Ds were around $50k. I then decided I was willing to pay the extra $8k for the performance dual motors. Had that upgrade been $20k (as in your scenario) I would have stuck to the base. It's still fun to floor it now that I've had it a few months. My 2 year old loves it so that helps the feeling of being worth it. His mom/my wife absolutely hates quick acceleration so thankfully my son didn't get that trait from her. As for the suspension, I'd guess it's something I'd never notice as, other than quick accelerations, I'm not literally racing the car or anything like that. I guess I have taken a couple corners kinda quickly in the first month or so of ownership but not so much now.
 
The P100D driver’s reaction times were so bad. Grandpa needs to retire from the track.
not really. Reaction times don't matter at a test and tune. ET is determined by the time the back of your front tire crosses the second staging beam to the time you run through the traps at the end.

only matters if you're bracket racing, which they weren't.

When determining the fastest car, you read the ET and trap speeds.
 
not really. Reaction times don't matter at a test and tune. ET is determined by the time the back of your front tire crosses the second staging beam to the time you run through the traps at the end.

only matters if you're bracket racing, which they weren't.

When determining the fastest car, you read the ET and trap speeds.


Is that how it works I didn’t know that LOL.

Did you watch the video and pay attention to the commentary? Maybe you didn’t, because the model 3 was trying to hit a good reaction to make it close because he knew his car was slower.

So while not bracket racing, it mattered to him who finished first and by how much.

If I was the P100D owner, it’s also not a good look regardless of the time slip.
 
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I focused only on the acceleration aspect of the Model S. And I guess this wouldn't matter on a new Raven as the suspension is the same either way. But the new Raven adaptive air suspension is night and day superior to the old air suspension. For those that haven't driven one, you won't know the difference. But once you have, it's hard to go back to the old version. If you like your car in sport setting at all times and prefer a stiffer ride, then the Raven suspension alone isn't worth the upgrade. But, if you like riding on air with a car that absorbs the imperfections in the road, then its a huge difference. Fortunately it still has the option to go to the sport setting for when you want a little more spirited driving capability. But for for freeways and just regular every day driving, it's turned out to be the thing I love most about my car over my 2017.
 
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