1) Optimum cell voltage (3.92V) for best life translates into 70% charge of usable battery for non LFP. Higher is worse that lower, but both appear to matter. 5% either way starts to make a difference.
As per the former post by me.
The lower the SOC, the lower the calendar aging.
The lower the temperature, the lower the calendar aging. At -20C, the calendar aging is virtually not happening. (Theres a lower temperature limit due to the chemistry of the batteries, but it is at 30C somewhere.
2) Depth of discharge (DoD) doesn't appear to be a big deal although research on it has lots of variables and gets pretty heavy fast.
The smaller the cycles cycles, the smaller the cyclic aging, also does the region where the cycles is placed matter. The lower the SOC during the cycles the lower the cyclic aging.
“Deep cycle” is a term but the part of the deep cycle causing more degradation is the high SOC part.
FWIW, charge cycles get construed in funny ways, and it tends to mislead folks (myself included). What seems to happen is authors looks for correllaries and come up with things like "charge cycle equivalents". Swell if we're measuring total power available (a watts a watt, and in fairness that's often how the phrase get used), but not so good when the internet thinks it means "hey, I can charge half-way twice and it counts as one charge". That's a "Nope", although if there is a unified way of counting "Charge Cycles" it's been missed by a lot of better minds than mine.
Full cycles equivalent (FCE) is the best way to compare different cycle strategies.
FCE will be a direct comparison to how many miles or km a car will be able to do to a fixed degradation level.
We can not on a easy way compare 10% Depth of Discharge (DoD) cycles with 33% or 55% or 70% DoD.
Batteryuniversity.com has at least one chart showing “stress cycles” which does not use FCE (at least per the information, even the research report from which the pucture is taken is unclear on that point.
A stress cycle chart can nit be used to directly compare what is best, as each cycle has a very different energy content.
That chart needs to be converted to FCE to be useful.
Here is a chart on Panasonic 18650 NCA, close to Teslas most used cell chemistry.
The 4.2V chart is cycled 4.2-2.5V, which is 100% DoD. The battery hold up for about 650 cycles at low load (before reaching 80% capacity) also 650 FCE as the DoD is 100%.
The 4.0V chart shows that it holds about 1000 FCE, which is in this case is 1250 cycles (1000/0.8) as 4.0-2.5V is 80% DoD.
We can not directly compare the cycles but the FCE can be compared as one FCE is the same as a 100% DoD.
With 100% cycles a car could hold about 650 x 400* km = 260.000km.
With the 80% DoD we get 1000x400* km, 400.000km.
(400 km is about what we get in true range for a 100-0% drive, in this example).
If we use “cycles” we can not see this correctly in the chart and it is a big chance that we misinterpret the chart, like that chart used in batteryuniverse.com.
My present thinking is a cycle is best thought of as the number of times the battery is charged as this is when its state is altered (what we're counting), heat comes up, voltage comes up to optimum (or not), and etc. I've bumped in articles with DoD and charge cycles analyzed that are only 10% apart, so...
Nope, thats not the way to handle cycles.
If you look at charts with FCE you will find that small cycles wear much less than large cycles.
At 10% DoD and low SOC many lithium batteries can do 5000-10000 FCE, thats 50.000 to 100.000 cycles.
All this suggests if you can put together 2 or 3 days and not charge at all then do that. Don't increase above 70% to get there, and make certain you leave a pretty solid "Oops" buffer. For my use a 20% minimum and 70% gives a 50% operating range between charges.
This will not cause the lowest degradation.
Read tge above statement about low SOC, low SOC range and small cycles.
There is not danger going below 20% with lithium ion batteries, that part is (also) a myth.