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Plaids with 20" tires AND rear inner tire wear?

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I just swapped the arachnids for a 20" +35 square setup with 285/35/20 tires.
Is that a Plaid? When I enquired about going to a square setup with 19" tires, I was told by Discount Tire that there wasn't a square setup available that met the load requirements on the rear wheels (requires 107). I guess with the acceleration of the Plaid, it can place a great load on the rear tires. The tires you indicated only has up to a 104 load rating in the Michelin PS4 A/S.
 
Is that a Plaid? When I enquired about going to a square setup with 19" tires, I was told by Discount Tire that there wasn't a square setup available that met the load requirements on the rear wheels (requires 107). I guess with the acceleration of the Plaid, it can place a great load on the rear tires. The tires you indicated only has up to a 104 load rating in the Michelin PS4 A/S.
I have a square setup 20x10 +35 275/35 on my plaid with PS4 102YXL, which I believe is the correct load for the Plaid.
 

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Your alignment is good enough to not have the inner wear problem.

But the only way to say your alignment has no issues or is a unicorn, you would need to do what owners of staggered wheels do, that's not rotate them.

If you have a single picture that shows all 3 treadwear indicators we can get an idea of how well your alignment is.
NOT rotating tires reduces their wear life significantly. This is due to treadblock "feathering" - uneven wear on the tread blocks themselves.
Please don't suggest this to people without acknowledging this fact - then they can decide if they still want to do it or not.

Also rotating tires is still a valid study for premature inside edge wear. If it really is a suspension/alignment issue, the differential-wear (faster-inside-than-outside) will still occur, it'll just take longer. Otherwise, If you can do a wheel rotation and mount the inside edge of the tire on the outside, you have bigger problems...

But I just posted on this elsewhere, as long as alignment is to factory-spec, minor tire pressure deviations can have a massive detriment on tire wear. Many people ignore this.

The better way to run this "test" is religiously obey the plackard-pressure on the standard tire setup (assuming alignment is in-spec). Then see where the wear gets you. Spoiler - I bet it'll be even wear, and pretty damn close to the warranty-limit...
 
NOT rotating tires reduces their wear life significantly. This is due to treadblock "feathering" - uneven wear on the tread blocks themselves.
Please don't suggest this to people without acknowledging this fact - then they can decide if they still want to do it or not.

Also rotating tires is still a valid study for premature inside edge wear. If it really is a suspension/alignment issue, the differential-wear (faster-inside-than-outside) will still occur, it'll just take longer. Otherwise, If you can do a wheel rotation and mount the inside edge of the tire on the outside, you have bigger problems...

But I just posted on this elsewhere, as long as alignment is to factory-spec, minor tire pressure deviations can have a massive detriment on tire wear. Many people ignore this.

The better way to run this "test" is religiously obey the plackard-pressure on the standard tire setup (assuming alignment is in-spec). Then see where the wear gets you. Spoiler - I bet it'll be even wear, and pretty damn close to the warranty-limit...

Some people have staggered tires so they can't rotate.

Inner edge wear has been a problem since the 1st Model S rolled off the assembly line over 10yrs ago.

It has already been proven that Tesla's specs are causing the inner edge wear problem and a more neutral camber setting fixes it.
 
Nice. Narrower in the rear! Traction ok on non prepped surface ?
It shouldn't make much of a difference honestly. I looked up the specs on tirerack and the 295 T2 has 10.8" tread width with the open market ps4s 275 at 9.5". That's not necessarily a loss of 1.3" of tread since the tires are aspect ratioed down; that 1.3" includes a reduction in both the channels and sipes of the tire. So say an even 1" of tread loss at most. 1" of tread on a street tire when you can't do a burnout to heat them up will be insignificant in pretty much any scenario...especially since he's also gaining a bit of sidewall for compression on launch. front tires are only 0.1" wider, so it's irrelevant to make a comparison with them.
 
Do you have any 1/4 mile numbers?
5.98@121 is moving pretty fast on the 1/8
Wanted to see if your trap is not affected due to the shorter overall diameter.
The only timslips in the 1/4 was bracket racing so I didnt use lauch mode. On the foot brake it went 9.40's @151. 6.1@120 in the 1/8.
Im sure it would be a 9.20 something at 152 or so with launch mode.
 
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I’m really getting attracted to the pilot sport cup 2 (240) connect tires that come in 275-35 front / 305–30 rear setup on 20” wheels. Also they seem like they have enough sipes for wet traction.

I currently run the Pirelli 265/295 PZ4 setup and have loved the first few laps after which they overheat and become jelly.

Anyone here run the 240 cups for regular summer tires?