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MYP accelerated rear inner tire wear like MS Plaid - Texas example - check yours

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Heck I am more confused now than my first post in this thread, LOL
Buckets of fun above was the member that said these Pilot Sports were directional.

When I pulled the Ubers off and looked at the tread I could see that the inside is wearing a bit quicker than the outside and since having the means to swap whatever is needed... just thought I would try and maximize my expensive Michelins life expectancy.
Maybe they meant direction of inside vs outside and not direction of rotation?
 
Maybe they meant direction of inside vs outside and not direction of rotation?
I Think You are right and because of that nothing can be done about inside wear since the only way to get the tires outside on the inside is to just ignore the outside marking. Tires are one place Tesla's do cost more, After seeing the Edmunds test of a Performance Y against a 707HP Track hawk where the Y held it's own and was able to generate 1.29 G lateral force I am just going to accept that tires are a wear item.
 
Bingo.

I mean…. They are, literally.
It’s a short list… but tires absolutely make it.
Brake pads/rotors, wheel bearings, balljoints/bushings/struts, tires, window washer fluid.
Oh, speaking of washer fluid, the wipers are driving me nuts. Using TACC during twilight triggers the wiper. Since it’s dry, they’re squealing, screeching and most likely wearing down prematurely.

But yeah, wear items are just what we gotta accept with the car.
 
This is why you guys should consider adjustable camber and toe arms to correct alignment issues as a preventive maintenance or post learning lesson.

A few root cause considerations:

-heavy EV’s tend to put more force toward the suspension impacting geometry

-high mileage/ stress causes factory bushings to wear quickly causing once harder rubber bushings to soften

-YES your alignment can be out of spec out of the factory, happens often. Get it checked. Won’t notice until it’s too late.

Most aftermarket solutions are spherical bearing based replacing rubber bushings entirely. Slight NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness). Not as noticeable as folks may say. Best to ride in a car with those parts to get a personal opinion.

Benefits:

-more control of suspension geometry
-balanced tire wear
-longer lasting spherical bearings do not require replacement, last the life of the car
-lighter and stronger than stock camber and toe arms (weight savings is ALWAYS good, not much)
-removes MY slop/floatiness when driving, relates to spherical bearings and stronger arms

Check out:
Mountain Pass Performance:

Unplugged Performance:

Redwood Motorsports:
 
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For my Plaid, I didn't need to go with adjustable camber arms to reduce the camber. Basically some shims "adjusted" it enough to take care of it. Perhaps the same approach would work on the 3/Y and be a lot more cost effective. I know had the Macsboost camber kit referenced below in my car and no issues when I took it in to Tesla for service or when they installed my track pack brakes. I was flat out told though when doing the brakes that if I had adjustable camber arms they would install my brakes until they were replaced.

 
This is why you guys should consider adjustable camber and toe arms to correct alignment issues as a preventive maintenance or post learning lesson.

A few root cause considerations:

-heavy EV’s tend to put more force toward the suspension impacting geometry

-high mileage/ stress causes factory bushings to wear quickly causing once harder rubber bushings to soften

-YES your alignment can be out of spec out of the factory, happens often. Get it checked. Won’t notice until it’s too late.

Most aftermarket solutions are spherical bearing based replacing rubber bushings entirely. Slight NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness). Not as noticeable as folks may say. Best to ride in a car with those parts to get a personal opinion.

There is absolutely ZERO reason to add aftermarket camber and toe arms for a factory ride vehicle if the intention is to align the vehicle. If somebody wants to add them for performance reasons, that's fair game.
 
There is absolutely ZERO reason to add aftermarket camber and toe arms for a factory ride vehicle if the intention is to align the vehicle. If somebody wants to add them for performance reasons, that's fair game.
So how do you align to the target (rather than the wide "within spec" values) for rear toe, camber, caster if you own a Tesla which is out of the 'slop' adjustment window?
There are reasons to add more adjustability other than for track use.
 
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So how do you align to the target (rather than the wide "within spec" values) for rear toe, camber, caster if you own a Tesla which is out of the 'slop' adjustment window?
There are reasons to add more adjustability other than for track use.

Like you said, there is some adjustability available through the slop. Are we seeing cars from the factory that have insane alignment values? I'm talking MX type values where the camber is insane and the toe is super aggressive
 
Like you said, there is some adjustability available through the slop. Are we seeing cars from the factory that have insane alignment values? I'm talking MX type values where the camber is insane and the toe is super aggressive
Yes I see them all the time. The "within spec. window" is very wide on all models. There is a case for adjustable arms for S/X and 3/Y and thankfully more options are coming available for those who don't want to spend money on adjustable arms with spherical joints.
 
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Yes I see them all the time. The "within spec. window" is very wide on all models. There is a case for adjustable arms for S/X and 3/Y and thankfully more options are coming available for those who don't want to spend money on adjustable arms with spherical joints.

I guess a better question would be, what do you consider "out of spec" for toe and camber. Caster is generally a non issue, so I'm not mentioning it here. I imagine it varies from person to person, and what they want to accomplish.
 
There is absolutely ZERO reason to add aftermarket camber and toe arms for a factory ride vehicle if the intention is to align the vehicle. If somebody wants to add them for performance reasons, that's fair game.
This is why I said consider. There should be a factory threshold allowance, doesn’t mean they are all within spec once you deliver the car. Not common, it happens.

Other benefits relates to preventive maintenance. For one you won’t need to worry about slop from worn rubber bushings throughout your ownership of that car. Most here probably won’t own the car long enough to matter.

As you mentioned, yes doing this for performance reasons is the main goal.
 
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This is why I said consider. There should be a factory threshold allowance, doesn’t mean they are all within spec once you deliver the car. Not common, it happens.

Yeah, that's fair. I'm interested in how far out of tolerance the cars are, realistically the factory suspension is bolted into the car. Given the design of the suspension components, they might be out of spec, but they can be brought back into a nominal condition if the car is aligned

Other benefits relates to preventive maintenance. For one you won’t need to worry about slop from worn rubber bushings throughout your ownership of that car. Most here probably won’t own the car long enough to matter.

I think I partially agree here. Spherical bearings are going to have their own set of issues.

As you mentioned, yes doing this for performance reasons is the main goal.

Totally reasonable for performance. I'm just not convinced it's necessary for a factory ride height.
 
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