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Plate Changeout - How?

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Hi all,

Yes, its the remove those horrid Tesla Reg Plate Holders post!

Ok, I removed the rear bracket altogether on new MY, stuck the plate directly to the car using hook and lock 3M velcro (used exact same stuff with my previous M3, never budged for 3 years and was super difficult to take off even after that time).

Removed the first part of the front holder and decided to use same velcro but stick the plate directly to the rear part of the holder, which looked absolutely fine and was stuck on good and proper. Anyway, pulling off the drive this morning and the bugger fell off. Upon examining why this happened, all 4 pieces of velcro adhesive failed on the backing bracket part, not the plate itself.

Thinking why this happened (as this stuff is ridiculous strong), can only think that the recent hot weather we've had may have melted the adhesive perhaps and weakened it, or maybe this stuff just doesn't like sticking to plastic?

Long story short, now exploring different options for front plate. Know there's a lot of guys go down the vinyl stick on plate for the front but is there any other recent successful and sufficient ways of doing it?

Would like to hear some ideas and solutions.

Thanks.
 
On the front I drilled mine onto the backing plate

IMG_2850 2.jpg
 
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Removed the first part of the front holder and decided to use same velcro but stick the plate directly to the rear part of the holder, which looked absolutely fine and was stuck on good and proper. Anyway, pulling off the drive this morning and the bugger fell off. Upon examining why this happened, all 4 pieces of velcro adhesive failed on the backing bracket part, not the plate itself.

I've found great variability of the "stickability" of this type of velcro depending on the surface. I would imagine that the type of plastic of the holder just happens to be sub-optimal ... problem is that it seems OK at first ... and a bit of heat puts the tin lid on it!
 
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I've found great variability of the "stickability" of this type of velcro depending on the surface. I would imagine that the type of plastic of the holder just happens to be sub-optimal ... problem is that it seems OK at first ... and a bit of heat puts the tin lid on it!
Totally agree. Was bemused as to how it had fell off cos it was on solid for sure and I had used same stuff on previous M3, expect difference now is that plastic back like you say. Clearly the sticky stuff doesn't like it at all.
 
Totally agree. Was bemused as to how it had fell off cos it was on solid for sure and I had used same stuff on previous M3, expect difference now is that plastic back like you say. Clearly the sticky stuff doesn't like it at all.

Yes, I've got a cheapo set of bookshelves in a room used as an office and it has a sort of plastic veneer of fake wood (lovely!). Same result ... eventually it drops an electrical extension that is stuck to the side even though it feels solid when first attached.
 
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I've found great variability of the "stickability" of this type of velcro depending on the surface. I would imagine that the type of plastic of the holder just happens to be sub-optimal ... problem is that it seems OK at first ... and a bit of heat puts the tin lid on it!

I can also confirm. Super heavy duty genuine Velcro lasted a few days into the first extreme hot spell after fitting.

Having retrospectively looked at the spec for the heavy duty Velcro, it suggests not suitable for the type of plastic that the front number plate holder is made of.

For rear, affixed direct to car, I suspect Velcro glue bond is stronger than the car.
 
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On the front I drilled mine onto the backing plate

View attachment 949410
I had the issue where the stuck on front plate was pulling away at the sides so looked a bit naff. Ended up drilling the plate and using screws and caps from Amazon, much like yours. Though I used the existing holes that were closer to the edges on the bracket so the plate would closely hug the contour of the bracket.
IMG_5033.jpeg
 
I had the issue where the stuck on front plate was pulling away at the sides so looked a bit naff. Ended up drilling the plate and using screws and caps from Amazon, much like yours. Though I used the existing holes that were closer to the edges on the bracket so the plate would closely hug the contour of the bracket.View attachment 949426
think I am going to go down this path for several reasons. You wouldn't happen to have links for the screws and caps you used would you?
 
I had the same failure with the front plate using sticky pads last summer so drilled mine too. The slight lateral curve meant the adhesive was always under tension. Mounted onto the backing plate, which conveniently already had 2 holes in to accept a self-tapping screw. Got the covers (with screws too, as it happens) from ebay for a couple of quid.

Rear number plate is mounted to the backing plate with sticky pads and seems fine as its flat.

F19CF2CA-2414-42FC-BE68-6107374E27C0_1_105_c.jpeg
 
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think I am going to go down this path for several reasons. You wouldn't happen to have links for the screws and caps you used would you?
I got this set of screws/covers from Amazon:
All Trade Direct 6 Pk Caps & Screws Car Number Plate Fixing Fitting Kit https://amzn.eu/d/3NIlGJi

But ended up using the screws the original bracket was attached with. Not much in it, though.
 
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This stuff is excellent. I removed the "slot in" plate holder but retained the Tesla plastic base. Put the tape on the high parts of the base. Need to be accurate as you don't get a second chance. As SC found out. 🤦 Front plate needs to be curved a little to match base.

 

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This stuff is excellent. I removed the "slot in" plate holder but retained the Tesla plastic base. Put the tape on the high parts of the base. Need to be accurate as you don't get a second chance. As SC found out. 🤦 Front plate needs to be curved a little to match base.

Surely you fixed that?? o_O
 
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