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Power hatch issue

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Whenever I open my power hatch, it opens, sounds the warning alarm, and then closes automatically. Anybody ever seen this issue and know how to fix it? It is really annoying - I have to put my hand up to force it to stop coming down whenever I need to get into the rear hatch area.

See linked video. It now does this every time (I activated the hatch to open both times using the remote).

 
Try resetting the height to a little lower than it is now by holding the liftgate before it reaches its limit, and then hold the liftgate button on the underside of the liftgate for 2 seconds until you hear a tone. While this will reset the height limit of the liftgate to where you are hoilding it (reset it again to set a different height), it may show if there is a limit being exceeded when it is opening, forcing it to close. Maybe it will work if you set the height to just a tad lower than it is opening to now.
 
Try resetting the height to a little lower than it is now by holding the liftgate before it reaches its limit, and then hold the liftgate button on the underside of the liftgate for 2 seconds until you hear a tone. While this will reset the height limit of the liftgate to where you are hoilding it (reset it again to set a different height), it may show if there is a limit being exceeded when it is opening, forcing it to close. Maybe it will work if you set the height to just a tad lower than it is opening to now.
Yeah I had already thought of that. Didn't work. I even tried setting it to halfway up and the behavior was the same.

Notice in the video that when the liftgate gets to the top it dips down a little bit? It was doing that even when I set it to halfway. Wonder if that dip is triggering it to close.
 
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Press the trunk release button above the license plate to start it opening, and grab the rear hatch before it closes. Manually raise it to the height you want, and then press and hold the button on the hatch itself for two seconds until you hear a confirmation chime
to reset the height limit memory.
 
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Okay, a little different scenario on mine. After 247K miles our liftgate quit working. Tesla came out and installed a new strut. Maybe 15 minutes. Two and a half hours later, who knows how many phone calls, he gave up.

It opens about 70% and stops. Push it up and hold the button - no sound until you let go. Three beeps and does nothing. If you push the button after moving - three beeps and nothing - and you have to close it manually. If you simply accept the height and then push the button - everything works.

He said they'd send a request for help to the factory. Nothing for weeks - and they just closed my repair ticket (no charge for the new strut or "repair" though!)

Their thoughts so far. "It's a new model strut on a 2014 - maybe it doesn't work." "Maybe your ECU is bad." "Maybe the software needs to be updated (he forced an update anyway). Nope - I can add a waypoint to navigation now - and still bang my head on a partially opened liftgate.

I've tried everything I can think of. Any ideas?
 
Great minds think alike. They did check that - and it has lots of power - very hard to stop, scary to push up beyond stop when it is trying to hold it there. (That was me trying it.) I've unplugged the unit when set to high. When closed. After closing and opening manually. They tried reboots, and on and on.

My theory is that the new units have a finer gradation on the linier actuator so reach the count for the old ECU before it gets to the top. The old ECU can't tell it to close when it's beyond the "count" because that number is outside of its bounds. It's a pretty theory. Has about the same chance of being right as the delivery schedule theories for new cars!
 
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Great minds think alike. They did check that - and it has lots of power - very hard to stop, scary to push up beyond stop when it is trying to hold it there. (That was me trying it.) I've unplugged the unit when set to high. When closed. After closing and opening manually. They tried reboots, and on and on.

My theory is that the new units have a finer gradation on the linier actuator so reach the count for the old ECU before it gets to the top. The old ECU can't tell it to close when it's beyond the "count" because that number is outside of its bounds. It's a pretty theory. Has about the same chance of being right as the delivery schedule theories for new cars!

I had to take it into the shop, but they did finally get it working. Interestingly it takes longer to go up and down now. I think it does have finer gradiations and they are timed with the old icu, thus take longer simply because there's more steps to take.