Rattle noise coming from front Air Suspension (2017-18)

[Gtech]

FYI: TAS dose not stand for "Firestone" in anyway shape or form, Picture of a ships binnacle not helpful.

Therefore I placed it between parentheses because it was more to differentiate the difference when looking to the struts since 9/10 people cannot see if a strut is EAS or TAS.

So again, if there is a Firestone logo on the strut we are talking about TAS.

 

[Retkimora]

PS. it would be nice for everyone who applied fix to report back how it goes after some time.

Time-wise not too long ago, but mine is still good after about 20 000kms. Did both sides at the same time. No air suspension leaks or rattles.

 

[rcho8]

2018 x 100D, left side getting this rattle noise around 73,000 miles, getting worse 75,000mile, have service center check it out they stated it could be bad lower control arms, ended up replacing all the control arms myself, it was a little torn on the bushings in the front lower control arms, at the same time I replace the tie rod link and installed the n2itive camber kit, rattle still there when going over bumps. remove the left air struct and tighten the blot, all rattles gone, after test drive, remove the right side to check it was not loose at all. after the DIY, alignment at 3rd party, Service Center recalibrate the air height and depressurized the air system and refill with nitrogen, SC charger under $100 usd for both services. at 76k miles now, no leaks or noise yet. Hope it last at least another 70k..

 

[PaulF2020]

2018 x 100D, left side getting this rattle noise around 73,000 miles, getting worse 75,000mile, have service center check it out they stated it could be bad lower control arms, ended up replacing all the control arms myself, it was a little torn on the bushings in the front lower control arms, at the same time I replace the tie rod link and installed the n2itive camber kit, rattle still there when going over bumps. remove the left air struct and tighten the blot, all rattles gone, after test drive, remove the right side to check it was not loose at all. after the DIY, alignment at 3rd party, Service Center recalibrate the air height and depressurized the air system and refill with nitrogen, SC charger under $100 usd for both services. at 76k miles now, no leaks or noise yet. Hope it last at least another 70k..

Great news, glad it worked. I'm not sure why Tesla still not being able to identify this issue correctly, they even have a service bulletin for it.

 

[Retkimora]

Time-wise not too long ago, but mine is still good after about 20 000kms. Did both sides at the same time. No air suspension leaks or rattles.

Now about 1000km later after writing that post the rattle is back at front left corner. It goes away when lowering suspension to lowest or rising to standard. It could be something else but I strongly suspect it is the same nut loose again. I think I will try to replace it with some locking nut and use stronger threadlock. And mark its position after tightening.

 

[PaulF2020]

Now about 1000km later after writing that post the rattle is back at front left corner. It goes away when lowering suspension to lowest or rising to standard. It could be something else but I strongly suspect it is the same nut loose again. I think I will try to replace it with some locking nut and use stronger threadlock. And mark its position after tightening.

Thanks for posting, please let us know how it goes.

 

[Retkimora]

Thanks for posting, please let us know how it goes.

Got it done today. Getting strut out and back to the car is starting to get easy, hehe. Previously put threadlock was nowhere to be found and nut was loose as suspected. This time put way more of threadlock (bigger the blob, the better the job). Original nut has fine threads and no regular nut would go to strut threads. I will try to source locknut with fine thread to put on next time this happens.

Attached is a picture of nuts with different threads. On the left is strut top nut and right one is some regular nut.

 

[mspohr]

Got it done today. Getting strut out and back to the car is starting to get easy, hehe. Previously put threadlock was nowhere to be found and nut was loose as suspected. This time put way more of threadlock (bigger the blob, the better the job). Original nut has fine threads and no regular nut would go to strut threads. I will try to source locknut with fine thread to put on next time this happens.

Attached is a picture of nuts with different threads. On the left is strut top nut and right one is some regular nut.

Probably metric thread

 

[ElectricHorse]

Same problem here in Belgium with my 2018 Model S. First the 4 control arms en stabilisator links where replaced.. did not help. Will try the trick with the towels to see if that is the problem. It's really a shame having such an expensive car and having to fix this problem ourselves..

 

[Raroia]

Can anybody confirm the sound of the loose top nut may apply to coil suspension cars as well?

 

[ElectricHorse]

Looks like this is also the problem I'm having. Tried the "shop towels method" and big difference. Thank you forum!

I read its not a problem to keep driving around with the bolts removed.. seems strange to me, anyone with more knowledge about this here?
I can imagine this car is flexing & bending a bit in turns and fast acceleration/deceleration?

Will try to add some rubber in between first, so the bolts don't touch the bars directly.. if that helps then that's it, I've had it with the expensive repairs!

 

[Aggmeister2010]

I read its not a problem to keep driving around with the bolts removed.. seems strange to me, anyone with more knowledge about this here?
I can imagine this car is flexing & bending a bit in turns and fast acceleration/deceleration?

The bolts you're removing are basically for a strut tower brace bar. The vaaaaaast majority of cars do not have them, and very few actually need them. It's nice to have for a little bit of extra rigidity when you're turning, but not necessary.

 

[Slavas]

Hello to all Tesla martyrs!
So my 2017 MX has a knocking sound in the front right air spring. Mostly dull clicks when turning the steering wheel slowly. Localization is indicated in the photo. There are thoughts on what could be wrong with the stand and how to treat it.

Also, for some reason there is no sticker with the article number on the rack, but judging by the appearance it is Firestone. This is true?

Do I understand correctly that the pneuma began to fill with nitrogen only with the appearance of Raven?

Thanks everyone for your help

 

[Slavas]

Does anyone know what causes these clicks? They occur when the steering wheel is rotated slowly and are localized in the lower part of the air spring module

 

[rcho8]

sounds like upper control arms