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Rear door alignment

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Today I pointed on to the mobile tech that the rear passenger door was sticking out a bit (it’s more noticeable in person) compared to the driver side. The drive side looks flush and perfect, however the tech said the passenger side was correct and that the driver side needed to be adjusted. He said the rear doors needs to stick out so wind does not enter in when driving. Can anyone confirm this?
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So I just wasted my time dropping my car off at the service center to have this issue fix. Came back few hours later and the door still looks the same! Tesla said they tried their best to fix it and it’s “with in spec.” Am I being nit picky here or is this something that should of easily been fix?
 
So I just wasted my time dropping my car off at the service center to have this issue fix. Came back few hours later and the door still looks the same! Tesla said they tried their best to fix it and it’s “with in spec.” Am I being nit picky here or is this something that should of easily been fix?
Mine look like that after “adjustment” as well. I just try to ignore it
 
So I just wasted my time dropping my car off at the service center to have this issue fix. Came back few hours later and the door still looks the same! Tesla said they tried their best to fix it and it’s “with in spec.” Am I being nit picky here or is this something that should of easily been fix?

Sounds like you got a crappy SA. You need to have a SA that will push the techs to fix it. Typically what will happen:

SA - "can you guys fix this door?"
Tech - "no, it's within spec"
SA- "ok"

You need an SA that is going to be like:

"Would you want this on your car? Go fix it, it looks like dog crap"


If it doesnt work in the SC you dropped it off to, then go to the next SC, or get another SA assigned to your car when you go to drop it off.
 
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I've had expensive German cars with perfect panels.... they are a thing of beauty. But with Tesla, I'm willing to pay a price to be on the cutting edge. It is disappointing that Tesla continues to have quality problems - the Y was just trashed by Consumer Reports so it's got to be true. But I love driving the car, and as long as it works I'll be happy. [especially because I live over 4 hours from the nearest SC!].
 
When I was picking up my car two weeks ago (mid Oct build) my SA had one of the detailers come over and remove some glue off the hood from the white plastic shipping wrap (that Tesla now uses- he said where they hadn't used wrap in the past). While he was working we made small talk and I mentioned how happy I was with the fit and finish of my car. He said the quality is much better now vs. earlier builds that were coming through with warped doors that no amount of alignment could fix. He said they replaced quite a few doors early on... And that's straight from a Tesla employee.
 
yeah my rear door is messed up also. The ranger is BSing - he probably actually believes what hes heard - but its nonsense. Im actually worried about a water/freezing situation with the gap - in fact - it extends to the header hear the hatch on my car. The ranger said rear doors cannot be adjusted. Ranger also said that there is no fix for protruding charge port door - I had the TSB for him - show dit to him and he said - hmm I had no idea. Tesla=cluster - lets face it. However having said that - we are on the cutting edge here and it is what it is.
 
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Here’s my July PUP build after “adjustment” at the service center. The top is still out, the bottom and sides are finally aligned though. View attachment 610652 View attachment 610653

My June build, VIN 9xxx looks exactly like yours, and sticks out on both doors. When my mobile tech came out to take a look back in July, there was nothing he could do. He was very cool about it, and didn't give me BS about it being "in spec". The reason was as we pulled the trim off is that the door sheet metal itself was manufactured with the rears a bit more bowed out at the top towards the rear that they should be, forcing the black trim out away from the C pillar glass lower trim. The bottoms of the doors line up perfectly, and are flush with the front doors and rear of the car, the gap between the front and rear doors is even, and the door glass if flush with the C pillar glass. We determined the only way to make this trim flush with the rear would be to replace the rear door shells, or have a body shop bend that part of the door back without damaging the paint or creating a bad angle for the door glass and possibly causing damage. At the time, when I was at my SC, every MY in the June/July timeframe looked similar to my trim misalignment, so this must have been a manufacturing defect at the time. I haven't let it bother me, but I can see how others may find this to unacceptable. Looking at the OPs driver's side, the trim does look much better when it is smooth and flush!
 
My June build, VIN 9xxx looks exactly like yours, and sticks out on both doors. When my mobile tech came out to take a look back in July, there was nothing he could do. He was very cool about it, and didn't give me BS about it being "in spec". The reason was as we pulled the trim off is that the door sheet metal itself was manufactured with the rears a bit more bowed out at the top towards the rear that they should be, forcing the black trim out away from the C pillar glass lower trim. The bottoms of the doors line up perfectly, and are flush with the front doors and rear of the car, the gap between the front and rear doors is even, and the door glass if flush with the C pillar glass. We determined the only way to make this trim flush with the rear would be to replace the rear door shells, or have a body shop bend that part of the door back without damaging the paint or creating a bad angle for the door glass and possibly causing damage. At the time, when I was at my SC, every MY in the June/July timeframe looked similar to my trim misalignment, so this must have been a manufacturing defect at the time. I haven't let it bother me, but I can see how others may find this to unacceptable. Looking at the OPs driver's side, the trim does look much better when it is smooth and flush!
Good info. Thank you. I’ll admit that my bowed out rear doors didn’t come to my attention until I read this thread. So it must not bother me. I have PPF on the doors and do want the added cost of the-applying if Tesla were to “fix” the doors.
 
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Im in the same boat ... I was hoping to just move the door in by loosening the latch. But, no luck.

Almost tempted to pull the latch and grind a mm or two to allow the adjustment.

Moving the latch or the striker plate was also something we thought of doing, but neither are adjustable (almost all vehicles I've owned, this was an adjustable component), but after further investigation, it was clear that the top rears of the doors are manufactured along a different contour than the rear of the body.