I just purchased the same Samsung Bar Plus except the 256Gb version. However I discovered that I do not know how to format it using an IMAC for FAT32. I did it ok with a Sandisk 32GB in Mos-dox(FAT32) but that does not work for increased memory sticks. Please advise how to format 256GB with APPLE sytem. Thank you I should also say this is for a Model X.
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Recommended USB drive for dashcam
- Thread starter Shygar
- Start date
lairdb
Member
n2mb_racing
Active Member
I'm using the recommended 128GB samsung bar drive now. It's formatted fat32. I tested the drive and it is much faster. 40 MB/s write and almost 300 MB/s read speeds. But, I'm STILL getting corruption on the dashcam videos. Particularly the left repeater cam. See the screenshot below. Has anyone figured out a fix for this?
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Yeah, it's almost like the speed is irrelevant and not the actual problem or something
It's a software issue that Tesla needs to fix. Report it to them to add to the pile.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
So everyone is having this issue?Yeah, it's almost like the speed is irrelevant and not the actual problem or something
It's a software issue that Tesla needs to fix. Report it to them to add to the pile.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Lots of people are (possibly everyone is under the right conditions but not everyone experiences those conditions)
There appears to be no connection to the recording device used (I've seen reports of problems on various kinds of USB sticks of varying speeds and quality, SDcards of varying speed and quality, and even on SSDs).
Nor is there any consistency to which camera(s) the issue happens with from one user to the next.
Some have suggested time of day/angle of sun seems to matter- but I don't know there's sufficient evidence to prove that.
The more folks that have the issue and report it though the more data Tesla has to figure out the root cause.
n2mb_racing
Active Member
One assumption that I think you are making is that the system is trying to write the data at the same rate at which it is being generated. In that case, obviously if you are generating 1.8GB of data(video) per hour, which is approximately 0.5MB/s, then you will end up writing at the same speed, i.e. at 0.5MB/s.
If the drive can only be written to at a max rate of 0.5MB/s then it would need to be continuously written to without any “rest”.
However, since the drive is being written to only every minute, and the idea is that the write should complete quickly(in a couple of seconds preferably) the write speed needs to be several times the speed of data generation. As an example, if you wish to complete the write for each one minute cycle in just 2 seconds, then your write speeds need to be 29 times(60-2)/2 your data generation speed which turns out to be about 15MB/s, or 120Mbps.
I suspect it is useful to have large periods of “write inactivity” as that can help in writing to the usb on-demand (as in when you tap on the icon).
If the drive can only be written to at a max rate of 0.5MB/s then it would need to be continuously written to without any “rest”.
However, since the drive is being written to only every minute, and the idea is that the write should complete quickly(in a couple of seconds preferably) the write speed needs to be several times the speed of data generation. As an example, if you wish to complete the write for each one minute cycle in just 2 seconds, then your write speeds need to be 29 times(60-2)/2 your data generation speed which turns out to be about 15MB/s, or 120Mbps.
I suspect it is useful to have large periods of “write inactivity” as that can help in writing to the usb on-demand (as in when you tap on the icon).
n2mb_racing
Active Member
I agree, though I tried a drive that has 40 MB/s write speeds and 300 MB/s read speeds, and I'm still getting corruption. I tested the drive myself with atto benchmark.
Just ordered the Samsung Bar plus 128GB. It wasn't the cheapest option so I really hope it fairs better than my cheap Transcend that kept failing lately (no dashcam icon comes up despite being formatted FAT32 and TESLACAM folder at root).
EDIT: Just read the reviews as write speed was not listed in the description, seems that write speed is 20MB/s. I'm assuming this is too slow for Dashcam and Sentry so I cancelled my order. No idea what to do next without throwing a bunch of money at some more expensive solution.
EDIT: Just read the reviews as write speed was not listed in the description, seems that write speed is 20MB/s. I'm assuming this is too slow for Dashcam and Sentry so I cancelled my order. No idea what to do next without throwing a bunch of money at some more expensive solution.
Snow Drift
[Off-Road Assist] Activated
I've searched with little luck...
How do you know when the USB drive is full (besides connecting to a computer)?
How do you know when the USB drive is full (besides connecting to a computer)?
TT97
Active Member
Unfortunately, you answered your own question (connecting to a computer). Hopefully, Tesla will add in a future update an indication to the car on how much space is left on the USB.
What program are you using to view that video?
Try this one, created by one of our members AstroWunder and it works great. That way you can isolate the viewer.
Tesla Sentry Cam Software, Sentry Keeper, Tesla Sentry, Sentry Monitor
n2mb_racing
Active Member
I'll try that. I was just viewing using Windows media player or VLC. Some files were fine, but others were corrupted. You could tell right away because the file sizes were too small on the corrupt files.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
You get a gray x instead of a red dot on the dashcam icon- since the red dot is only there when recording footage, which it can't do on a full drive.
Snow Drift
[Off-Road Assist] Activated
Thank you. I was hoping for a visual signal. (I also now realize it says this in the OM).
I have noticed this exact problem. Either the left or right camera. The right camera creates empty files periodically. The left camera sometimes has a lot of distortion. Every time I connect the usb drive to my Windows 10 laptop (have done this twice) it says "drive needs repair." Windows repairs it so I can view the videos.
FYI, I installed a Samsung 128 gb, USB 3.1 FIT format stick when dash cam first came out. It has worked well until today when I checked a Sentry alert. I safely ejected afterwards and then tried to reinstall. The Tesla no longer sees a disk when inserted. The computer also sees nothing now so something happened on reinsertion that may have killed it.
Oddly, the Samsung warranty doesn't apply since they exclude dashcams as appropriate usage:
Oddly, the Samsung warranty doesn't apply since they exclude dashcams as appropriate usage:
C. Warranty Limitations
Warranties provided herein do not extend to any use of the product for or with continuous recording instruments or any other write-intensive devices, including without limitation security cameras, surveillance systems, dashboard cameras, black box cameras, internet protocol/network cameras, continuous recording set top box devices, continuous data logging devices like servers, dedicated devices for benchmarking tests, or the primary drive for certain devices, and any other excessive use(s).
Warranties provided herein do not extend to any use of the product for or with continuous recording instruments or any other write-intensive devices, including without limitation security cameras, surveillance systems, dashboard cameras, black box cameras, internet protocol/network cameras, continuous recording set top box devices, continuous data logging devices like servers, dedicated devices for benchmarking tests, or the primary drive for certain devices, and any other excessive use(s).
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