I kinda wanted more camber than my MPP v1 can provide, and decided to try the RW arms to see if it's possible to dial in some extra caster as well and see if I like it.
Don't see many reviews on the forum, so I'm gonna post my thoughts here.
Just got them delivered a few days ago. At a first glance, the RW arms at max caster setting should be capable of moving the upper ball join ~4 cm rearward.
But, sadly, that much extra caster is impossible with cutting metal. W/o cutting anything at all you can get only a few mm before you start rubbing on the plastic wheel well liner.
But, if you cut the plastic liner up to sheet metal, you can get about 2 cm total of rearward movement of the upper ball joint, which by my crude math would be about extra 2ish degrees of caster (upper-to-lower BJ distance is ~53 cm). One can also cut some sheet metal to gain more clearance, but I'm not doing that...
Now, the arm itself doesn't have as much curve as the MPP arm, so its upward movement is more limited, and even more so if you dial in more caster. However, for those on RW Ohlins, the reduced range of motion does not appear to be an issue at the recommended shock length. Here, I've compressed the shock to the point of riding the bump stop hard.
And the arm to body clearance seems just enough not start bending stuff.
I don't know if people with other coilovers could run into issues.
So far, I took a bunch of camber measurements at different levels of compression/steering angle. I can generally get like 1.6--2 degrees more static camber than with MPP v1 arms. Not sure my absolute camber measurements are as accurate as the relative ones, but at full compression (riding the bump stop) I was getting near 4.8 degrees static camber, and over 6 degrees with the steering wheel turned 180 degrees, where with MPP v1's the most I got was 3.2 degrees static and 4 degrees with 180 degree steering.
Will try to take some more measurements tomorrow, as well as check for wheel/tire clearance at the maximum feasible caster angle. I doubt the latter would be that useful, since the widest tire I have in my garage at the moment is just 265mm on an 18x9.5 +35 wheel. I do have some tall winter tires tho, will try those as well.
The RW's method of arm adjustment - threaded bolt near the bushings - is kinda a pain to work with even while using their recommended crowfoot wrenches with long extensions. I suppose with enough practice it may get less painful, but at the moment it's taking forever to get the arms loosened-adjusted-retightened.
Given this, I'll probably set some fixed setup that I can daily drive and not mess with much at the track/autox. I'm thinking of setting static camber at ride height of around 3.5ish degrees, max possible caster and drive like that for a while to see if it's livable.
If anyone has suggestions of what useful measurements I can take - I'm all ears.
Don't see many reviews on the forum, so I'm gonna post my thoughts here.
Just got them delivered a few days ago. At a first glance, the RW arms at max caster setting should be capable of moving the upper ball join ~4 cm rearward.
But, sadly, that much extra caster is impossible with cutting metal. W/o cutting anything at all you can get only a few mm before you start rubbing on the plastic wheel well liner.
But, if you cut the plastic liner up to sheet metal, you can get about 2 cm total of rearward movement of the upper ball joint, which by my crude math would be about extra 2ish degrees of caster (upper-to-lower BJ distance is ~53 cm). One can also cut some sheet metal to gain more clearance, but I'm not doing that...
Now, the arm itself doesn't have as much curve as the MPP arm, so its upward movement is more limited, and even more so if you dial in more caster. However, for those on RW Ohlins, the reduced range of motion does not appear to be an issue at the recommended shock length. Here, I've compressed the shock to the point of riding the bump stop hard.
And the arm to body clearance seems just enough not start bending stuff.
I don't know if people with other coilovers could run into issues.
So far, I took a bunch of camber measurements at different levels of compression/steering angle. I can generally get like 1.6--2 degrees more static camber than with MPP v1 arms. Not sure my absolute camber measurements are as accurate as the relative ones, but at full compression (riding the bump stop) I was getting near 4.8 degrees static camber, and over 6 degrees with the steering wheel turned 180 degrees, where with MPP v1's the most I got was 3.2 degrees static and 4 degrees with 180 degree steering.
Will try to take some more measurements tomorrow, as well as check for wheel/tire clearance at the maximum feasible caster angle. I doubt the latter would be that useful, since the widest tire I have in my garage at the moment is just 265mm on an 18x9.5 +35 wheel. I do have some tall winter tires tho, will try those as well.
The RW's method of arm adjustment - threaded bolt near the bushings - is kinda a pain to work with even while using their recommended crowfoot wrenches with long extensions. I suppose with enough practice it may get less painful, but at the moment it's taking forever to get the arms loosened-adjusted-retightened.
Given this, I'll probably set some fixed setup that I can daily drive and not mess with much at the track/autox. I'm thinking of setting static camber at ride height of around 3.5ish degrees, max possible caster and drive like that for a while to see if it's livable.
If anyone has suggestions of what useful measurements I can take - I'm all ears.