Removing Stock subwoofer

[jkennebeck]

I replaced my stock sub with this. Much better clearer and louder but not "rollin' 15s" loud. But I didn't want that. Wasn't exactly drop in. The old sub has different screw holes but that didn't stop me from making new ones for the new speaker. And, yes, MUCH heavier! Whole process took me about 2.5 hrs.

And BY ALL MEANS do a proper break in of this new sub. You'll thank yourself.

Subwoofer Break In: What, Why, and How? | SoundQubed

 

[powaking]

Anything special with the wiring hookup? Is it a straight plug in or are there wiring modifications that need to be made?

 

[jkennebeck]

Anything special with the wiring hookup? Is it a straight plug in or are there wiring modifications that need to be made?

The stock amp is only pusing 1 ohm, so you need to wire it in parallel.
good info here on that. I didn't solder I used a crimp tool.

Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Wiring Tutorial

 

[WASD]

Interested in doing the SQ HDS2.108-D2 drop in sub replacement. Is there a dedicated amp for the stock sub that can be easily replaced as well? Might as well do both at the same time if I'm in there already.

Was thinking one of these two:

Soundstream PN2.350D 350W 2-Channel Picasso Nano Class D Amplifier
NVX MVPA1 MONOBLOCK CLASS D MINI AMP

 

[jkennebeck]

Interested in doing the SQ HDS2.108-D2 drop in sub replacement. Is there a dedicated amp for the stock sub that can be easily replaced as well? Might as well do both at the same time if I'm in there already.

Was thinking one of these two:

Soundstream PN2.350D 350W 2-Channel Picasso Nano Class D Amplifier
NVX MVPA1 MONOBLOCK CLASS D MINI AMP

Easily replaced is the key phrase.
The amp is up in front of the car behind the dash. I think the other issue is getting power back to the back end of the car for an amp back there. That's why i just did new sub only. Plenty of thump now for me. YeMMV

 

[WASD]

Easily replaced is the key phrase.
The amp is up in front of the car behind the dash. I think the other issue is getting power back to the back end of the car for an amp back there. That's why i just did new sub only. Plenty of thump now for me. YeMMV

What volume level do you typically listen at? I listen at 3-4 with my iPhone volume maxed out, don't really get much sub-bass. Wondering if it would even be worth it to do the SQ drop in sub.

 

[Trebek1762]

here is another thread about same sub

Ideal Aftermarket Audio System for Model S

Did you 3D print the hexagon that goes on top of the sub? Do you need that frame to secure it to the box or can you just use the holes that are in the Qubed sub?

Thanks

 

[verdee]

Did you 3D print the hexagon that goes on top of the sub? Do you need that frame to secure it to the box or can you just use the holes that are in the Qubed sub?

Thanks

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2966018

 

[Xenoilphobe]

Did you 3D print the hexagon that goes on top of the sub? Do you need that frame to secure it to the box or can you just use the holes that are in the Qubed sub?

Thanks

No, I just made new holes for the new sub...

 

[Doanster1]

No, I just made new holes for the new sub...

Ditto. Self-tapping screws are your friend...

 

[Xenoilphobe]

Yeah. Believe it or not I used drywall screws and a hot glue gun.

 

[Trebek1762]

Yeah. Believe it or not I used drywall screws and a hot glue gun.

Why the hot glue gun?

 

[Xenoilphobe]

Why the hot glue gun?

To,seal the old holes and Ro seat the sub to the sub box.

 

[SteveW25561]

I want to do this for my brand new 2019 Raven S.

So I don’t mess it up, can someone confirm that all I would need to do is get the Sound Qubed HDS2.1 at HDS2.1 Series Selection | SoundQubed
And specify 8”, dual 2 ohm ?

Also, if I just swap out the Tesla subwoofer with this one, leaving the stock amp as is (ie change nothing else), it will work and improve the sound of the current generation sound system? (Note in this version of the car we didn’t get to choose the UHFS, as it’s now included as the base “premium” sound system).

 

[EVortex]

I want to do this for my brand new 2019 Raven S.

So I don’t mess it up, can someone confirm that all I would need to do is get the Sound Qubed HDS2.1 at HDS2.1 Series Selection | SoundQubed
And specify 8”, dual 2 ohm ?

Also, if I just swap out the Tesla subwoofer with this one, leaving the stock amp as is (ie change nothing else), it will work and improve the sound of the current generation sound system? (Note in this version of the car we didn’t get to choose the UHFS, as it’s now included as the base “premium” sound system).

I just did this today. I have a stock UHFS in a 2018 MCU2 Model S and just changed subwoofer to SoundQubed HDS2.1, 8 inch, dual 2 ohm ($92). I filled the holes in the enclosure from the stock subwoofer screws with silicone sealant. The original torx screws that held the Tesla subwoofer were not long enough to reuse and there are 8 screw holes in the SQ compared to 6 in the original, so I had to use some spare screws I already had. I wired it for a 1 ohm signal by connecting both positive wires from the SQ together and then connecting the negative wires together. I reused the original speaker wire connector and soldered all connections. The only difficulty I had was in putting it back together I could not get the torx 25 screw back in to the bottom of the trim piece. I thought it was not lining up, but later realized the screw was in the hole, but the threads were not grabbing anything. I finally had to add a clip to the screw hole for the screw to have something to grab. Maybe there was a clip there originally and it fell out - not sure. Sound is noticeably better to me. I had to recalibrate the EQ settings for a better balance with the tighter bass from the SQ - and the new sub is not even broken-in yet. I expect it will sound even better after some time.

 

[Trebek1762]

I am also in the process of installing this. I agree that the bass is sharper and cleaner, not as "muddy". I'm waiting to see if I can get a retention bracket 3D printed for a cleaner install.

I'm using quick disconnects on the subwoofer side that mate perfectly with the stock sub wiring harness. I had to trim one of the male disconnects (the - side) as I think its a 0.187 size, as opposed to the more common .250 size.

 

[SteveW25561]

@tcoombes Thanks - that's exactly what I was looking for!

Ordering now....

In fact, its almost a shame this is buried in a thread with the title of removing the subwoofer when it turns out this thread is a great resource for a quick and inexpensive mod. I only stumbled on it by searching for subwoofer topics. Might be worth its own threat with a searchable title (eg. "Easy drop in replacement for factory subwoofer"). I might make a thread just for searchability once I get mine....(crediting others who showed the way).

Thanks to Xenoilphobe and @Doanster1 for suggesting this subwoofer!

 

[Doanster1]

@tcoombes Thanks - that's exactly what I was looking for!

Ordering now....

In fact, its almost a shame this is buried in a thread with the title of removing the subwoofer when it turns out this thread is a great resource for a quick and inexpensive mod. I only stumbled on it by searching for subwoofer topics. Might be worth its own threat with a searchable title (eg. "Easy drop in replacement for factory subwoofer"). I might make a thread just for searchability once I get mine....(crediting others who showed the way).

Thanks to Xenoilphobe and @Doanster1 for suggesting this subwoofer!

Good idea to give it its own thread.
Also, extra credit points for putting some fiber-fill in before mounting the new sub. Never hurts and easy/cheap to do. Whether it makes a noticeable difference or not is open to interpretation, but I’ve always used it whenever I built an enclosure. Good luck.

 

[Fleer]

Doing the install now and I want to make sure I wire this thing up correctly.

I cut the original connector off the old sub and wire both negative wires from the new sub to the negative connector and both positives to the positive connector wire?

 

[Fleer]

I ended up wiring it like that to test and it worked and sounded good so it I put it all back together. Wow what a difference, nice and tight bass, absolutely worthy upgrade for $90, only took me about 1.5 hours.