Plaid subwoofer upgrade

[The Duke]

Has anyone done this and kept the stock position?

I upgraded the rest of the speakers to Hertz Mille. No other changes yet, the stock system seems to drive the speakers just fine and sound is much improved. I also added some sound deadening in the doors so no doubt that helped.

The last speaker is the subwoofer and from the manual it's quite a process to remove and replace. Also I think the Hertz will be 2" too deep so I will have to make/modify the box. Local shop refused to price it, just said $150 an hour for as long as it takes.

In SF area if that matters.

 

[Muzzman1]

On one of the facebook groups, someone mentioned that they installed this and love the result.
Im interested but I am afraid to under drive the new woofer and it will sound muddy. It's an inexpensive driver, but the time it would take to swap is my concern. I dont want to spend the time until I hear some confirmations on how much it improves the sound.
Does anyone know how many watts are dedicated to the Sub channel on the car?

Amazon.com

 

[NeuroRad]

I've been waiting for someone to come up with a clear cut solution for aftermarket sub/amp in plaid. Any way you could share the manual? I'd be interested in changing the mids and highs as well. Are the midbass drivers 8"?

Tesla did a great job with deadening the interior from rattles - there are none. Seems to be a good platform for a high end aftrermarket system.

Perhaps what I want more than anything though is a volume knob. It's a terrible omission from the factory IMO. Could have easily been implemented in the left lower portion of the center screen

 

[Tdriver]

I have a late 22 S and can't imagine needing more thump. It is solid and distortion free. In my early S I had an aftermarket sub in the rear lower compartment that worked really well.

 

[NeuroRad]

I have a late 22 S and can't imagine needing more thump. It is solid and distortion free. In my early S I had an aftermarket sub in the rear lower compartment that worked really well.

My last system had 2 ported 13w7 on 2500 rms. So, in comparison this factory sub is anemic. I do agree with you however that it is pretty good for a factory system. I simply like to be able to slam when i want and turn down other times. Very much like the plaid itself. Extremely docile if you want vs vicious acceleration.

 

[The Duke]

I've been waiting for someone to come up with a clear cut solution for aftermarket sub/amp in plaid. Any way you could share the manual? I'd be interested in changing the mids and highs as well. Are the midbass drivers 8"?

Tesla did a great job with deadening the interior from rattles - there are none. Seems to be a good platform for a high end aftrermarket system.

Perhaps what I want more than anything though is a volume knob. It's a terrible omission from the factory IMO. Could have easily been implemented in the left lower portion of the center screen

Tesla SSO - Sign In

 

[phaphaphooey]

On one of the facebook groups, someone mentioned that they installed this and love the result.
Im interested but I am afraid to under drive the new woofer and it will sound muddy. It's an inexpensive driver, but the time it would take to swap is my concern. I dont want to spend the time until I hear some confirmations on how much it improves the sound.
Does anyone know how many watts are dedicated to the Sub channel on the car?

Amazon.com

I saw that and was hoping for experience from others before jumping in. Seems like a no brainer if it is just a direct replacement.

 

[The Duke]

OK, finally got the time. NOT a drop in. The online manual makes it easy if all goes well. There is room for the Mille if you make a box and mount a little higher than stock.

But my tale is different. One of the bolts holding the stock enclosure spun its nut instead of coming off. It's the upper one. I took off the wheel and inner fender and found no access. I was quoted "whatever time it takes" by two shops, now I know why. I may have to cut the original enclosure to get to the spinning bolt/nut to cut it out. Offending bolt shown in pic.

 

[NeuroRad]

The factory box looks horribly compromised. I’d have to measure volume but it looks like the best stealth install would be a fiberglass enclosure in the false floor area.

 

[The Duke]

The factory box looks horribly compromised. I’d have to measure volume but it looks like the best stealth install would be a fiberglass enclosure in the false floor area.

I think you are correct, but it does not sound that bad.

Know of a place that sells sheet fiberglass? I have used MDF in the past. Around here it's all cloth and resin.

 

[Ken_MS_2222]

Hey Duke, can you post or PM me the Hertz Mille speakers you purchased. I'm also looking to replace some of my Model S speakers. Thank you.

 

[The Duke]

Hey Duke, can you post or PM me the Hertz Mille speakers you purchased. I'm also looking to replace some of my Model S speakers. Thank you.

Sorry, I can't.
I bought them from Junior's Car Stereo in Fremont. He has a Plaid and can order the whole set. At this point I don't recommend getting the woofer, looks like a LOT of work to install. The rest are pretty easy. Be sure to get the sound deadening material as well for the door skin. Since I did them all at once the difference is very noticeable. Be sure to adjust your balance. I used Michael Jackson's Billy Jean to compare, YMMV.

Vehicle Modifications | Junior's Car Stereo | United States

JCS is your one-stop-shop for all automotive needs. Established in 2001 with experience in automotive installations since 1994, Junior's Car Stereo is the premier custom shop serving the Bay Area. We carry one of the largest selections of wheels & tires, stereos, amps, mobile security & much more!

www.juniorscarstereo510.com

Amazon.com

 

[bricked]

Did you ever fix this? I had water get in the hatch and had to replace the carpet but cant get it back in under the sub, having the same issue with the bolts

 

[bricked]

Well the bad news is if you ever find this thread i hope you are some kind of laparoscopic surgeon. And there really isnt any good news, its the dumbest design I have ever seen. My car is a 2017 and the design is the same as The Duke's plaid. The nut inside is just spinning around. This goes inside the fender and there is no access through the tail light or anywhere else i could see. The bottom two are worse they go into the frame rail. If you had a syringe with a tube you might be able to like super glue it back on enough to get the bolt out but then you will have the nut rattling around in there.

Other fun facts are there appears to be a tesla installed plastic bag, im not sure what that does, i thought it was garbage at first as I found a bunch of other plastic baggies and *sugar* as i was disassembling the car.

 

[The Duke]

Sorry about the late reply.

I took it back to Fremont Service saying that should never happen. The manager agreed and fixed it for free. I believe his tech held the torx head with vice grips and carefully drilled it out.

My solution so far has been 7" Hertz speakers in the front doors which have a LOT of bump so not hurrying to get the subwoofer done. Takes me 4 hours to take apart the trim to work on the woofer (have to stop for coffee as I get impatient and stop before I break something).