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Repairing a Flooded Tesla Model S : HOW-TO

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UPDATE

These are the conditions I have to work under. I had to set my exposure to very high on the camera. Its almost pitch black outside. The only electricity I have is the inverter built into the bed of my truck. It can run an LED flashlight and maybe a drill but nothing heavy duty (had a hard time using a shop vac actually). This is located in a tow yard, about an hour from my house.

If I forget one thing I'm screwed...

Forgot jumper cables to power up the door handles? SCREWED

Forgot extension cable from pickup bed to Tesla? SCREWED

Forgot 8mm and 10mm? SCREWED




b8Em8ST.jpg




Here are both cars exchanging ideas


7l7zuoq.jpg



Testing out new roof rack design



L3dclVt.jpg






Really digging this pic, this is the LED light at work while I'm standing in the bed of my truck getting more tools. Only was able to get one seat out so far... More on that later!



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UPDATE

Thank you Tesla for using THE worst, I mean THE WORST hex screws for securing the passenger seat. The passenger and driver seat screws are completely different, the passenger seat screws are hex and they strip within 30 seconds, I was only able to get one of them out successfully.

Look at this.. its TINY, and it was massively overtorqued to add insult to injury

This is the passenger side right rear screw, completely stripped
m8eocH4.jpg



This is the passenger side left rear screw (which is also a different size for some reason)
3pGUv0E.jpg



Since they are stripped I have no choice but to drill the screw out....

BUT WAIT, THERE IS MORE!

Since I only have hand tools and a battery powered drill, I don't have enough torque to drill through the bolt, that and these bolts are HARD, so needless to say they make a mockery of my drill bits

66HnEXr.jpg




I picked this up at home depot today, so hopefully this ends my misery, I have to drill 3 of them out... Thanks Tesla!

hUu2VV5.jpg
 
UPDATE

Thank you Tesla for using THE worst, I mean THE WORST hex screws for securing the passenger seat. The passenger and driver seat screws are completely different, the passenger seat screws are hex and they strip within 30 seconds, I was only able to get one of them out successfully.

Look at this.. its TINY, and it was massively overtorqued to add insult to injury

This is the passenger side right rear screw, completely stripped
m8eocH4.jpg



This is the passenger side left rear screw (which is also a different size for some reason)
3pGUv0E.jpg



Since they are stripped I have no choice but to drill the screw out....

BUT WAIT, THERE IS MORE!

Since I only have hand tools and a battery powered drill, I don't have enough torque to drill through the bolt, that and these bolts are HARD, so needless to say they make a mockery of my drill bits

66HnEXr.jpg




I picked this up at home depot today, so hopefully this ends my misery, I have to drill 3 of them out... Thanks Tesla!

hUu2VV5.jpg
You can buy Left hand drill bits that help in this situation. They cut into the screw the same direction as you would loosen, once they bite in enough, they will back
the screw out.

Also before you get into this situation, if expecting a high probability of damaging the screw head. Pick of some Valve grinding compound, at any automotive store like Napa. Dip your screwdriver or bit into the compound and the grit will help hugely with keeping the tip from caming out and damaging the screw. This will prevent damage about 80% of the time.

Real stubborn bolts especially through aluminum can be coaxed, with localized heating around the bolt, not directly on the bolt. What I often do is use a heat gun for a minute or two and then spray the bolt directly with an upside down "can of air" like you use for cleaning a keyboard. The bolt flash freezes which causes rapid shrinkage () and the bolt threads break loose from the frame.
 
Those look like Torx screws to me, which might explain why you stripped them.

I think he miss quoted, they appear to be Torx.

Could be why he feels they are over torqued though. As Torx can take a much higher tightening torque then Hex. The Idea behind Torx aswell is that the driver will get damaged before the Screw. although I have never stripped a Torx screw, I have seen cheep bits snap trying to remove them.
 
You can buy Left hand drill bits that help in this situation. They cut into the screw the same direction as you would loosen, once they bite in enough, they will back
the screw out.

Also before you get into this situation, if expecting a high probability of damaging the screw head. Pick of some Valve grinding compound, at any automotive store like Napa. Dip your screwdriver or bit into the compound and the grit will help hugely with keeping the tip from caming out and damaging the screw. This will prevent damage about 80% of the time.

Real stubborn bolts especially through aluminum can be coaxed, with localized heating around the bolt, not directly on the bolt. What I often do is use a heat gun for a minute or two and then spray the bolt directly with an upside down "can of air" like you use for cleaning a keyboard. The bolt flash freezes which causes rapid shrinkage () and the bolt threads break loose from the frame.


You guys are super smart!!
 
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You can buy Left hand drill bits that help in this situation. They cut into the screw the same direction as you would loosen, once they bite in enough, they will back
the screw out.

Also before you get into this situation, if expecting a high probability of damaging the screw head. Pick of some Valve grinding compound, at any automotive store like Napa. Dip your screwdriver or bit into the compound and the grit will help hugely with keeping the tip from caming out and damaging the screw. This will prevent damage about 80% of the time.

Real stubborn bolts especially through aluminum can be coaxed, with localized heating around the bolt, not directly on the bolt. What I often do is use a heat gun for a minute or two and then spray the bolt directly with an upside down "can of air" like you use for cleaning a keyboard. The bolt flash freezes which causes rapid shrinkage () and the bolt threads break loose from the frame.

Thanks for the info bud. I checked out the left hand drill bits but unfortunately the seat does not move up far enough so that I can drill directly in the center of the bolt for removal.
 
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Thanks for the info bud. I checked out the left hand drill bits but unfortunately the seat does not move up far enough so that I can drill directly in the center of the bolt for removal.


Also here is a picture of the difference between inferior Hex and the much improved Torx.

As a side note, in low torque applications you can often remove a hex screw with a good quality Torx driver.
 
This is definitely NOT a factory bolt. I know both kinds they use, and that ain't one of 'em! Probably not even metric which explains why it's stripped.


Yup. the drivers side came out in 5 minutes. they are torx on the drivers side, they are HEX on the passenger side, 2 different sizes. one of the sizes is TINY, the screws are ridiculously torqued for such a small screw.