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Retrofit OEM power lift gate?

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I recently purchased a 2016 Model S 70D (pre-facelift), and pretty much the only option it doesn't have (that I want) is the power lift gate. I've seen a few threads on people using 3rd party products with success, but I'd really like to use Tesla's original parts. Is it possible to add this feature? Anyone done it?
 
yes lots of threads on this search for "co zero" on google to buy it and see here for how to do it: DIY Power Lift gate for Tesla Model S Walkthrough Video

Tesla won't sell you the oem parts to fit it yourself and they won't install it as a retrofit either. You can make the co zero kit work with the oem button on the tailgate by changing the wiring in the plug

I’ve seen that one, and I’m keeping it in mind, but really wanted to use OEM Tesla parts if possible. I know Tesla won’t sell the parts, but can find them on eBay and on here from wrecked parts cars. Just didn’t know if it was possible, and what parts are needed beyond the struts and control module, or if anyone else has done it successfully.

Found these on eBay, but no clue what other parts would be necessary...
Tesla Model S (2012-2016) OEM Liftgate Power Assist Struts Part # 6006610-00-B | eBay
 
So, after a bit of research, below is what I'm tracking that I will need, along with some questions:

1) PLG Control Module (1007511-00-A), which is located near the passenger side rear wheel under carpet

2) Liftgate Power Strut (6006610-00-C), turns out only right side is powered, left side is just a "slave"

3) Pull cup (1009264-00-E) and PLG switch (1010327-00-A)

4) Wiring Harness? Not sure if my existing harness has connections for all these items or not, need to investigate...anyone know?

5) Anti Pinch Sensor Assemblies (Left: 6007576-00-C, Right: 6007570-00-C), attached is a picture from Tesla's parts catalog, they are items 12 and 13 (circled in red). I'm honestly not sure where they attach? Anyone with a PLG car have pics of these installed they can share? Probably also need 12 or so of the "push clip - anti pinch sen" which is PN 1008784-00-A.

6) Cinching Actuator (1003549-00-B), Cinching Cable (1008186-00-B) and Liftgate Latch (6006654-00-B), not sure if all these are needed or not, but I believe the latch on PLG cars is different, and "pulls" the latch shut. Probably also need (3) 1016389-00-A and (2) 1008842-00-A to mount these items.

7) A friendly Tesla employee who will update my firmware to show I have a PLG!
 

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So, after a bit of research, below is what I'm tracking that I will need, along with some questions:
4) Wiring Harness? Not sure if my existing harness has connections for all these items or not, need to investigate...anyone know?

5) Anti Pinch Sensor Assemblies (Left: 6007576-00-C, Right: 6007570-00-C), attached is a picture from Tesla's parts catalog, they are items 12 and 13 (circled in red). I'm honestly not sure where they attach? Anyone with a PLG car have pics of these installed they can share? Probably also need 12 or so of the "push clip - anti pinch sen" which is PN 1008784-00-A.
your existing harness should have the connections for the PLG module, you can check by peeling back the carpeting on the right side of the cargo area. look for a lonely plug.

the non PLG trunks, to my knowledge, do not have the mounting holes for the pinch sensors. you can check on your car. also, I doubt you'll have the harness for the pinch sensors either.
IMG_8619.jpg

with the way the AM kits work, you should be able to just use the OEM mechanical strut and module w/button to retrofit, plug and play, as I don't believe any software editing is required since the car will read the module once plugged in.
 
your existing harness should have the connections for the PLG module, you can check by peeling back the carpeting on the right side of the cargo area. look for a lonely plug.

the non PLG trunks, to my knowledge, do not have the mounting holes for the pinch sensors. you can check on your car. also, I doubt you'll have the harness for the pinch sensors either.
View attachment 356461

with the way the AM kits work, you should be able to just use the OEM mechanical strut and module w/button to retrofit, plug and play, as I don't believe any software editing is required since the car will read the module once plugged in.

Ahhh...I DO NOT have the mounting holes for the pinch sensors, thanks for the pic. I'm betting this is why Tesla won't add the power lift gate after purchase, they would have to drill new holes. Wonder if it will work without them...

In addition to what you said, I'm thinking I'll also need a new "cinching" latch. You have to close the manual hatches pretty hard, which is why the AM kits "slam" shut. I'll give it a shot with original latch first and see if it works, pending I have existing connections for the control module, strut and switch...will check tonight.
 
In addition to what you said, I'm thinking I'll also need a new "cinching" latch. You have to close the manual hatches pretty hard, which is why the AM kits "slam" shut. I'll give it a shot with original latch first and see if it works, pending I have existing connections for the control module, strut and switch...will check tonight.
I never noticed a difference in the latch, I was under the impression that the mechanical strut performed the 'slam' maneuver.
 
I never noticed a difference in the latch, I was under the impression that the mechanical strut performed the 'slam' maneuver.

I'm still not sure if the latch itself is the same or not, but I'm definitely missing the Cinching Actuator that pulls the lift gate down tight after it lowers. I've circled it in the attached pic.
 

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So, I took apart my trunk to see what connectors I have. I found the connector for the Control Module (black/white in first pic) and I'm pretty sure I found the connector for the Power Strut (beige connector in second pic). However, I do not have connections for the pinch sensors (or mounting holes for them) or switch that goes in the pull cup. In the pics showing my harness, the three connectors dangling are for speakers (x2) and a light. Ignore the other ugly cable hanging down, that's my rear dash cam that I previously ran without taking out the large panel on the lift gate...going to clean that up now that I have access to it.

I'm not sure if I would need to replace my harness with one that has these connections, or if it's an additional harness I need to add. However, there is a second connection on the control module, and I'm thinking maybe it's an additional harness that goes straight from the control module to the pinch sensors and switch, but I can't find a diagram showing it. Anyone with a PLG car know if the pinch sensor and switch on the lift gate are on the same harness as other items, or by themselves?

Also, adding a couple more items to the list...

8) Power Lift Gate Chime (1003550-00-A), probably also need the two mounting screws. Also have no idea where this is mounted.

9) PLG Control Module Bracket (1051906-00-A), probably also need the three bolts (1008177-00-A) and three nuts (2007207) to clamp the module to the bracket, and the three nuts to hold the bracket down (2007207). The mounting holes look just like the ones for the door controller module that's in the same location, so maybe they mount on top of each other and I already have this stuff? Not sure...
 

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I'm not sure if I would need to replace my harness with one that has these connections, or if it's an additional harness I need to add. However, there is a second connection on the control module, and I'm thinking maybe it's an additional harness that goes straight from the control module to the pinch sensors and switch, but I can't find a diagram showing it. Anyone with a PLG car know if the pinch sensor and switch on the lift gate are on the same harness as other items, or by themselves?

Just wanted to correct a couple things...I removed the carpet covering where the PLG Control Module mounts, and discovered I do have both connectors. So I'm thinking my lift gate wiring harness probably needs to be replaced to get the extra connectors for pinch sensors and button. Also, the PLG Control Module Bracket is already there, I think I just need the longer bolts (50mm 1008177-00-A instead of existing 25mm 1006551-00-B) to mount both the door controller module and PLG control module.

From the attached pic, I'm assuming the PLG wiring harness (1004428-00-R) terminates inside the car above passenger side C pillar. I didn't notice it when hunting for the power strut connection, but it's tight up there. Can anyone confirm?

Does anyone know where the PLG Chime is located?
 

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Wanted to provide a quick update. I was able to purchase all above mentioned parts for $575 shipped, so not much above the aftermarket power lift gate option.

I installed it all, was pretty straightforward. Hardest part was probably swapping out the lift gate wiring harness. I started from the farthest connection, which was the drivers side taillight, and worked my way back. All connections ligned up perfectly except the license plate lights, which was a different connector. Harness was from a 2015, and my car is an early 2016, so I guess those lights change. Had to cut them off and solder the old ones (actually newer ones), on the the “new” harness. Next was figuring out where the harness disconnect point was, which ended up being behind the panel next to passenger side rear seat. Unplugged the old one and plugged the new one right in.

Installed the new power lift gate module, chime, the new struts (plugging in the powered one was a challenge), swapped out the latch/cinching actuator and then put everything back together. I purchase the pinch sensors, but because it would require drilling lots of holes in my lift gate (mounting holes aren’t there), I did not install them yet...hoping it will work without them.

Without updating the software config/firmware it basically functions as a manual lift gate, powered strut just sounds terrible using it manually. Only differences are if I push the button on the lift gate, it beeps like it’s gling to lower itself, but doesn’t. Also, if I close the lift gate very softly, the cinching actuator kicks in and pulls the lift gate shut (if I “slam” the lift gate, the cinching actuator does not engage). I contacted my local Tesla mobile service tech and he’s coming out on Wed to update the car, so I’m hopeful it will work just as it would from the factory. Will update with final results.

I didn’t take a lot of pics, but let me know if anyone has any questions.
 

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So, slight bump in the road. Mobile service tech came out to update the config/software today, but when he went to change the setting for the power lift gate, it wouldn’t allow him to make the change...said to contact engineering. He made a few calls, and senior tech above him had same issue trying to update it remotely. So long story short, he ended up leaving with no success.

He’s going to continue to research and ask some more people when they get back from vacation, but I’m no longer very hopeful. I guess fallback plans would be to find someone to hack the car (not ideal) or just go back to the manual lift gate (remove everything except wiring harness and sell to recoup some of the cost).

More to follow...
 
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Wanted to provide a quick update. I was able to purchase all above mentioned parts for $575 shipped, so not much above the aftermarket power lift gate option.

I installed it all, was pretty straightforward. Hardest part was probably swapping out the lift gate wiring harness. I started from the farthest connection, which was the drivers side taillight, and worked my way back. All connections ligned up perfectly except the license plate lights, which was a different connector. Harness was from a 2015, and my car is an early 2016, so I guess those lights change. Had to cut them off and solder the old ones (actually newer ones), on the the “new” harness. Next was figuring out where the harness disconnect point was, which ended up being behind the panel next to passenger side rear seat. Unplugged the old one and plugged the new one right in.

Installed the new power lift gate module, chime, the new struts (plugging in the powered one was a challenge), swapped out the latch/cinching actuator and then put everything back together. I purchase the pinch sensors, but because it would require drilling lots of holes in my lift gate (mounting holes aren’t there), I did not install them yet...hoping it will work without them.

Without updating the software config/firmware it basically functions as a manual lift gate, powered strut just sounds terrible using it manually. Only differences are if I push the button on the lift gate, it beeps like it’s gling to lower itself, but doesn’t. Also, if I close the lift gate very softly, the cinching actuator kicks in and pulls the lift gate shut (if I “slam” the lift gate, the cinching actuator does not engage). I contacted my local Tesla mobile service tech and he’s coming out on Wed to update the car, so I’m hopeful it will work just as it would from the factory. Will update with final results.

I didn’t take a lot of pics, but let me know if anyone has any questions.

It might also be beeping because you don't have the pinch sensors. If you have them, you should plug them in and see what happens too to see if a software update is actually needed. If you are hesitant to drill, you could also purchase an entire liftgate with the holes already drilled. They run ~$150-$200.
 
It might also be beeping because you don't have the pinch sensors. If you have them, you should plug them in and see what happens too to see if a software update is actually needed. If you are hesitant to drill, you could also purchase an entire liftgate with the holes already drilled. They run ~$150-$200.

Hmmm...that’s a good idea, I’ll have to give that a shot. Tesla has officially said no to updating my config, so if that doesn’t work, it’s looking like I’ll have to stick with the manual lift gate :(