Rust Proofing M3

[M109Rider]

I actually registered here just to answer you. There is only one underbody specialist in Ontario, it is Patrick Farray in Ottawa. Lots of people come from Toronto to do their car once,from Civics to 911 to million dollar cars, he has done them all. He has shown me lots of pictures of how Krown oil damages cars like yours or mine.

Your concern is valid- at 23% salinity (twice sea level on any de-icing operation in Canada), a one year exposure would eat several thousand microns, or 2-3 mm. especially brakes- two winter on any big brake kits (I get infinite with Cadmium plating, but it cannot be done to zinc coated rotors, which only lasts 2,000 hours or 3-4 months the first winter). The issue with M3 and any under-body that actually traps the salt water, and no car wash can remove it. Krown oil compounds the entrapment of salts UNLESS they open all your panels and know exactly how to spray your M, which they do not. 4th year when damage kicks in, owners come crying to Patrick. So on your M3 the most vulnerable part of the car is the subchassis, and trapped salt will rot it fast. Not as fast as a Civic with under panels today, but 4-5 years major damage.

tesla has another issue- unlike your bavarian, is cheap grade untreated steel, so it will rot (so say reports) in our climate esp Ottawa/Montreal a la Hyundai/Mazda. The bavarian chassis steel, high grade to commence, goes through miles of galvanization and prep- which T does not do at all, just paint. So when 20 year old e39s, which were not rust proof but high grade steel, go around immaculate today, your m3 should last as long or longer, provided the key vulnerability (subchassis and panels) is addressed.

In 5 years I did only two rustproofs with Fari, pristine under-chassis at 100,000 kms. Other people bring their cars, second winter, and indeed rust is already in.

Tesla folks are right about the oil, unfortunately. I would enter, and then oil starts softening (though not Ptrick's which is neutral) all rubbers and then salt gets in..

Thanks for the post.
Has this guy done any Tesla’s as of yet?
How much does he charge ?
Thanks

 

[Belisarius]

Thanks for the post.
Has this guy done any Tesla’s as of yet?
How much does he charge ?
Thanks

You can call him but am fairly sure he would not have oiled a tesla. He may tell you on the phone. As I wrote, people come from toronto, North Bay, QC City, to have him do cars they would not trust anyone else to touch or fix (he is also Canada's only touchless paint scratch repair), to rustproof their cars and ensure actual service. He knows where to put where not to put and so on. If you call him he will tell you what he can or cannot do. I was thinking your M, Tesla maybe. tell him Mr Christian sends you. he is so good that he has open doors at the Munich Stuttgart and Weissach lines as a consultant.

For the M he will charge about 200-300$ but he spends 5 HOURS doing it the cleaning it up not 1 like Krown (which puts in perspective the work K does). Fari has designed tools that go in BMW's own doors without any holes. I would not go for oil in the doors, but mainly the undercarriage and engine part. ASK HIM ABOUT KROWN CARS he has been asked to fix after. Most people get that work lasting easily 2-3 winters and the first application on your M is the most important.

Tesla is different, so he maybe able to respond.

 

[Belisarius]

Thanks for the post.
Has this guy done any Tesla’s as of yet?
How much does he charge ?
Thanks

Fari Professional Detailing

 

[Belisarius]

Thanks for the post.
Has this guy done any Tesla’s as of yet?
How much does he charge ?
Thanks

I just called him and he did 3 teslas. His gallery of vehicles on his website may reassure you.

 

[M109Rider]

I just called him and he did 3 teslas. His gallery of vehicles on his website may reassure you.

Thanks for the information and reply back.
Seems like a great way to go to me.
Wish he was closer.
May be a good reason for a road trip.

 

[Belisarius]

Thanks for the information and reply back.
Seems like a great way to go to me.
Wish he was closer.
May be a good reason for a road trip.

You are welcome. The worse thing you can do to an M is not to get oil to 120+Celsius, not revving the car (which results in carbon built-up) and not cycling at full throttle a dozen times a summer. May not be able to do that on the highway, but the road trip is good for your M. And tesla. that is how you discover things. Oh, always use Liqui Molly or Total in your M, between their intervals. Castrol or Shell is just piss poor for that 6 cyl engine.

 

[Belisarius]

Thanks for the information and reply back.
Seems like a great way to go to me.
Wish he was closer.
May be a good reason for a road trip.

he has clients coming from the US for a reason, he is the only one that does what he does with passion and not messing the car up. Krown wil as they will not spend hours reaching all nooks, and what you have is oil-free zones where saltwater gets in, traps and rots. he has pictures of that.

 

[adaptabl]

You know the 2 articles without any sources cited that say "orders opened to all reservation holders" is wrong, don't you?

Who turned out correct???

Just Saying.

 

[mzairboy]

I am interested in doing rust prevention on my Model 3.

For the last 3 years I have sprayed down the chassis and frame rails on my Jeep Wrangler with Fluid Film. It is a lanolin based oil.
No rust, and it is driven in the winters of PA in semi heavy salt. Washed only in the spring so all the salt and crud stays on all winter.

I read on a forum where a guy compared Fluid Film, motor oil, WD40, and AmsOil Metal Protectant. He sprayed raw steel and placed it by his mailbox at the road where the slush was splashed on it daily. In the spring the raw steel was not rusty where it had been fluid filmed.

I currently have a piece of raw steel bolted to my frame. Half coated with Fluid Film, the other half with Protection First Class metal protectant. I will run it all winter and see for myself which is better, but I know Fluid Film has been working on my Wrangler so far.

My coworker uses Krown to spray his vehicle. The oil drips everywhere and smokes on the exhaust and overspray gets everywhere.

Fluid film is like a gel, so it doesn't drip off. Salt and road grime does stick to it, but in the spring I pressure wash it off. All summer my frame beads water nicely with the leftover residue. Then in the fall I recoat it myself before salt hits the roads. I'm considering doing the undercarriage of the Model 3 with Fluid Film. Would probably cost about $40 in material. Much cheaper than the ceramic pro guys who wanted to charge me $500 to coat the undercarriage with ceramic for "protection".

Are there any manuals or diagrams showing what panels are steel on the Model 3?
I plan to keep the car for 10 years so if I can help prevent corrosion that is preferable.

 

[Raindog1]

I am interested in doing rust prevention on my Model 3.

For the last 3 years I have sprayed down the chassis and frame rails on my Jeep Wrangler with Fluid Film. It is a lanolin based oil.
No rust, and it is driven in the winters of PA in semi heavy salt. Washed only in the spring so all the salt and crud stays on all winter.

I read on a forum where a guy compared Fluid Film, motor oil, WD40, and AmsOil Metal Protectant. He sprayed raw steel and placed it by his mailbox at the road where the slush was splashed on it daily. In the spring the raw steel was not rusty where it had been fluid filmed.

I currently have a piece of raw steel bolted to my frame. Half coated with Fluid Film, the other half with Protection First Class metal protectant. I will run it all winter and see for myself which is better, but I know Fluid Film has been working on my Wrangler so far.

My coworker uses Krown to spray his vehicle. The oil drips everywhere and smokes on the exhaust and overspray gets everywhere.

Fluid film is like a gel, so it doesn't drip off. Salt and road grime does stick to it, but in the spring I pressure wash it off. All summer my frame beads water nicely with the leftover residue. Then in the fall I recoat it myself before salt hits the roads. I'm considering doing the undercarriage of the Model 3 with Fluid Film. Would probably cost about $40 in material. Much cheaper than the ceramic pro guys who wanted to charge me $500 to coat the undercarriage with ceramic for "protection".

Are there any manuals or diagrams showing what panels are steel on the Model 3?
I plan to keep the car for 10 years so if I can help prevent corrosion that is preferable.

I spoke with someone at Tesla service and they said that the cars are treated and they do not recommend any other type of treatment. I've seen others post that the car is zinc dipped to minimize corrosion. Here is a picture of the build of types of metals.

 

[yhap2003]

Hey Everyone, I signed up just to post my experience with Krown and the issue with them drilling holes into the vehicle.

Before I got my Model 3, I had a 2013 Mazda 3. I know the Mazda is known for their rust reputation but what made it worst is the holes they drilled.
After 4 years, the holes they drilled started to rust from inside out and I can see the paint bubbling. Before I traded in the vehicle, I had to scrap off the rust and use touch up paint to cover it.

Now i'm in the same boat as a lot of you. Should I rust proof the M3, if so, where and what solution. I don't want Krown because if they have to drill holes into the frame, I am 100% against that now after my experience with the Mazda.

 

[Mrcarcrazy]

If it requires drilling into a previously treated OEM panel, it’s not worth doing...as your experience has suggested.

Weekly washes and storing it in a garage will help more than any snake oil injected into crevices.

I live on a hypersaline body of water and I’m not at all concerned with rust.

Hey Everyone, I signed up just to post my experience with Krown and the issue with them drilling holes into the vehicle.

Before I got my Model 3, I had a 2013 Mazda 3. I know the Mazda is known for their rust reputation but what made it worst is the holes they drilled.
After 4 years, the holes they drilled started to rust from inside out and I can see the paint bubbling. Before I traded in the vehicle, I had to scrap off the rust and use touch up paint to cover it.

Now i'm in the same boat as a lot of you. Should I rust proof the M3, if so, where and what solution. I don't want Krown because if they have to drill holes into the frame, I am 100% against that now after my experience with the Mazda.