You posted here before bothering to check your own coolant?
Just add a little distilled water. Won't be enough to affect the concentration. If it happens again you have a leak.
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Just add a little distilled water. Won't be enough to affect the concentration. If it happens again you have a leak.
GlmnAlyAirCar
Active Member
Ok, yes, I get it. Stupid question.....things I wouldn't hesitate to do for a second in an ICE I don't get paranoid about with this car.
I'm gathering that they may have changed the seceth method in newer versions than mine. If so, maybe someone with a newer version will step in; although, it's the same old patching dread. Not sure how long my method lasts, as with anything.
There are a few things I left out, but care just takes time. If I get time I might do an article on a good way of adding a switch and Tinker Board S. (Like a RaspPi3 but more powerful) When I grow up I want to get into the gateway, and make Fusee Gelee work to mount the boot flash and eMMC.
There are a few things I left out, but care just takes time. If I get time I might do an article on a good way of adding a switch and Tinker Board S. (Like a RaspPi3 but more powerful) When I grow up I want to get into the gateway, and make Fusee Gelee work to mount the boot flash and eMMC.
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Unbelievable! So much work, I would like to thank you from all man from this thread!
Lightmatrix
Member
Hallo Werner,I have a question.
How much current does your power source supply?
My delivers 1.5A but crashes with the voltage and flows only 25mA
I have no curcit cut.
I think the tegra need in standby more current.
Thank you
You must use a regulated power supply, and also yours is too small. I recommend at least 5A. And you must keep voltage at exactly 2.8vDC.
Much appreciated... we are still in the wild and wooly days of being able to self repair... so far what I've been able to share is primarily just some value add in the H/W repair side, so the digital side is very helpful as that seems to make a number of folks nervous.
Thank you to @rooter
I have bought a power supply with 20A.
The voltage is 2.8V.
I have soldered the cable to the points of your picture and i have the same socket of your picture.
I have connected the :
Gnd
Cmd
Clk
D0
D1
D2
D3
Pins to the socket
And Gnd Vcc from board to power supply.
I don't have connected vcc from the board to the socket adapter.
I have a usb card reader
The pc don't see the emmc.
Have you desoldered a resister or other?
Attention: my cid is a bricked cid from ebay.
What for a voltage is connected on the vccq pin 1.8 or 3.3, i have not given a puck on this pins, because the different voltage.
My next step is to take another pc with sd reader in it.
Sorry for my bad english
Thank you very much
I have bought a power supply with 20A.
The voltage is 2.8V.
I have soldered the cable to the points of your picture and i have the same socket of your picture.
I have connected the :
Gnd
Cmd
Clk
D0
D1
D2
D3
Pins to the socket
And Gnd Vcc from board to power supply.
I don't have connected vcc from the board to the socket adapter.
I have a usb card reader
The pc don't see the emmc.
Have you desoldered a resister or other?
Attention: my cid is a bricked cid from ebay.
What for a voltage is connected on the vccq pin 1.8 or 3.3, i have not given a puck on this pins, because the different voltage.
My next step is to take another pc with sd reader in it.
Sorry for my bad english
Thank you very much
First, is this a -regulated- power supply?
It's good that you did not connect Vcc from the board to the chip carrier. You should though connect ground from the power supply to the PC chassis. I did not remove any components for this. Always use static protection methods.
It's not surprising that this chip-carrier to USB adapter to PC arrangement didn't work. Likely your USB adapter is low quality Chinese. And some lower-quality laptops and PCs have internal USB to SD card adapter. I use a Lenovo Thinkpad.
I was not able to get 4 bit transfer to work, only 1bit. Same with ce2078, although he used a different reader than I did, and it is his photo.
It seems that since you have little to lose with this board you might consider having the eMMC unsoldered. If this has had the normal failure mode of these CIDs, the problem is that partition 3 of this eMMC is burned out and you'll need to replace the chip anyway, as per my article over on DIY.
Although, it is possible that someone else has already tinkered with it and they've flashed a version of firmware different than that on the boot flash. This would make it appear to be bricked. When the Tegra can not boot for any reason, black screen.
But Occam's Razor, let's presume it's a normal failure.
It's good that you did not connect Vcc from the board to the chip carrier. You should though connect ground from the power supply to the PC chassis. I did not remove any components for this. Always use static protection methods.
It's not surprising that this chip-carrier to USB adapter to PC arrangement didn't work. Likely your USB adapter is low quality Chinese. And some lower-quality laptops and PCs have internal USB to SD card adapter. I use a Lenovo Thinkpad.
I was not able to get 4 bit transfer to work, only 1bit. Same with ce2078, although he used a different reader than I did, and it is his photo.
It seems that since you have little to lose with this board you might consider having the eMMC unsoldered. If this has had the normal failure mode of these CIDs, the problem is that partition 3 of this eMMC is burned out and you'll need to replace the chip anyway, as per my article over on DIY.
Although, it is possible that someone else has already tinkered with it and they've flashed a version of firmware different than that on the boot flash. This would make it appear to be bricked. When the Tegra can not boot for any reason, black screen.
But Occam's Razor, let's presume it's a normal failure.
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Yes it is a regulated power supply.
You say only the 1bit mode works:
Is it better, i work with beaglebone?
A half year ago, i have unsoldered a emmc from a bricked(display was brocken) tesla ic, the home(p4) partition was dead(complete) only the tesla folder was recovered by me, without data in it.(it was a learn procedere).
ls -a for list hidden data.
The Tesla init procedere repair automaticly the partition's, except to many sectors was bricked.
Yes the card reader is a low cost product, i think this reader don't support the 1bit mode.
I think we have Problems with four bit mode, with the cable and the high frequeny.
How i can start the 1bit mode in ubuntu? or in beaglebone.
Disconnect the D1,D2,D3 pins from the socket, is it right to take the d3 pin from the board and connect it with gnd?
Before i am unsoldered the emmc, i make a backup from it, to learning more from detect pins from emmc and more
You say only the 1bit mode works:
Is it better, i work with beaglebone?
A half year ago, i have unsoldered a emmc from a bricked(display was brocken) tesla ic, the home(p4) partition was dead(complete) only the tesla folder was recovered by me, without data in it.(it was a learn procedere).
ls -a for list hidden data.
The Tesla init procedere repair automaticly the partition's, except to many sectors was bricked.
Yes the card reader is a low cost product, i think this reader don't support the 1bit mode.
I think we have Problems with four bit mode, with the cable and the high frequeny.
How i can start the 1bit mode in ubuntu? or in beaglebone.
Disconnect the D1,D2,D3 pins from the socket, is it right to take the d3 pin from the board and connect it with gnd?
Before i am unsoldered the emmc, i make a backup from it, to learning more from detect pins from emmc and more
Knez
Member
Hello everybody from Ukrainian Tesla community!
Need your help!
My friend has Tesla MS 100D Aug 2017, AP 2.5, EAP. Salvage titled. Rooted.
Recently it started to show "Autopilot features limited".
There are few error/warning messages in diagnostic menu.
Previously it was a radar issue. A manual recalibration solved the problem for a couple of days.
SC (we have no Tesla SC in Ukraine, but this one operates with few handreds of salvage Teslas) changed radar itself, changed and tightened radar fittings, but it doesn't help. After few days the problem returnes.
But tonight the car behavior was absolutely abnormal!
Sorry that video is with russian voice comments. He just describes what you see, litterally: jerk steering wheel, go out, close door, return, same sh@t.
Do you have any ideas where to look?
Need your help!
My friend has Tesla MS 100D Aug 2017, AP 2.5, EAP. Salvage titled. Rooted.
Recently it started to show "Autopilot features limited".
There are few error/warning messages in diagnostic menu.
Previously it was a radar issue. A manual recalibration solved the problem for a couple of days.
SC (we have no Tesla SC in Ukraine, but this one operates with few handreds of salvage Teslas) changed radar itself, changed and tightened radar fittings, but it doesn't help. After few days the problem returnes.
But tonight the car behavior was absolutely abnormal!
Sorry that video is with russian voice comments. He just describes what you see, litterally: jerk steering wheel, go out, close door, return, same sh@t.
Do you have any ideas where to look?
Hey Knez! I admire your ingenuity in Ukraine.
If you're running a recent firmware package, you might be dealing with a purely software problem waiting to be addressed. Many of us on 2018.48 have been getting the "Autopilot features limited" message at seemingly random times. For me it usually clear up with a power-off reboot.
Other times I could explain it by the sun wiping out one camera long enough for Autopilot to give up on it. I think others have found obstructions on cameras that would cause Autopilot to bail.
Usually it just means it won't do guided lane changes.
If you're running a recent firmware package, you might be dealing with a purely software problem waiting to be addressed. Many of us on 2018.48 have been getting the "Autopilot features limited" message at seemingly random times. For me it usually clear up with a power-off reboot.
Other times I could explain it by the sun wiping out one camera long enough for Autopilot to give up on it. I think others have found obstructions on cameras that would cause Autopilot to bail.
Usually it just means it won't do guided lane changes.
Knez
Member
Thank you! )))) While Tesla is not in Ukraine we have to be selfsufficient! )))Hey Knez! I admire your ingenuity in Ukraine.
My friend had autopilot issue many times on V8 too.
The current firmware version is 2018.48.1. It was a long conversation in december with Tesla to convience them to push the update to a salvaged rooted vehicle outside of original market! But we did it! )))
This is an official firmware OTA update. But this is not a latest update with whoopee cushions!
Also NOA doesn't activate outside of USA/Canada even if a vehicle is manufactured for USA. The feature is geofence locked. We don't have this item in Autopilot tab on the MCU screen. Same situation is with one-touch summon. We have to press and hold application button to summon a car.
I know what you mean. I lost TACC ability on my Tesla 75D 2017 AP2.0 few times in poor weather conditions - backlight sun, rainy-snow, deep mist. Every time it shown at IC an exact message what's wrong - radar or camera. Here we don't have any explanation for an user.
We have another situation here. As you can see in logs from the diagnostic menu there is a problem with radar. Backup camera also sends a warning, but it's not enough to fully disable AP features.
As you see in the video the problem is growing up. Now it beeps even when the car is on park with the driver outside and closed doors. Reboot partly solves it. But the problem returnes soon. Radar recalibration solves the problem for a longer time but not forever.
TACC is radar. It's always radar. You're doing the calibration wrong.
The front face of the radar must be facing straight forward; not up or down but straight ahead from its perspective. You must first make sure that the radar is mounted securely. Then I used a square and a 20' string for horizontal and vertical to make these adjustments.
The video is annoyingly, impossibly fuzzy so it's impossible to see what it's unhappy about. Sure we can hear the beeping, but that's all we can know now.
The front face of the radar must be facing straight forward; not up or down but straight ahead from its perspective. You must first make sure that the radar is mounted securely. Then I used a square and a 20' string for horizontal and vertical to make these adjustments.
The video is annoyingly, impossibly fuzzy so it's impossible to see what it's unhappy about. Sure we can hear the beeping, but that's all we can know now.
Knez
Member
As I know the calibration procedure was done correctly many times for this car. Guys who did it had done it before many times for other cars.
For example they did it for my MS and I've never expereinced something like that.
So I tend that there is something wrong with wiring. Engineers changed radar itself few months ago, changed fittings, but the problem stays.
Don't tell about the video. When I was looking it 1st time on my phone I undestood nothing.
Long story short:
He came to the car. It's starting beeping. Opened doors, saw Driver Assistance Features Temporary Anavailable on IC and red hands. Jerked the wheel. Sound dissapeared. Went out of the car, closed the door - beeps again. Closed the car with fob - beeping. Opened doors, jerked the wheel - no beeps. Reboot with brake solved the beeping but not the message Driver Assistance Features Temporary Anavailable.
