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Scheduled battery preheating vs. battery degradation

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As a new Tesla owner I am wondering about scheduled pre-heating of the battery.
I understand that with a cold battery, regenerative breaking and probably acceleration is limited. What I don't know is how driving with cold battery influences the long term battery degradation?

(in my daily 40km commute it is a no brainer, I set it on to heat up the cabin and the battery.

However when I just want to have a 2 km drive to the supermarket, I am not sure what is the best approach. I can live with the lower perfomance, but I don't want to speed up the degradation. On the other hand, so far the long term average gross consumption of my 2018 Model S is 350Wh/km. So I am trying to optimize the energy usage, battery preconditiong being a suspect to increase consumption especially during very short trips)
 
As an example, this morning in 6 C ambient temperature I did a preconditioning for 3.24 kWh, then made a 3.74 km drive for which teslafi reported 1.18 kWh consumption. So the overall consumption for this short trip was (3.24 + 1.18)/3.74 = 1180 Wh/km.

That is why I am wondering if preconditioning makes any sense in such scenario.
 
I am not so sure when it makes sense actually. On a long drive it will heat up anyway.
If driving cold is bad for the battery, then it will be bad for it both on short and long drives.

So if driving cold is not bad for the battery, then the only reason to preheat is comfort(warm cabin), and higher available performance and regen breaking early in a drive.

If cold driving is bad for battery, then preheating is always good from battery health perspective, only the relative price of the preheating is much higher in case of a short trip. However, you might avoid the same amount of extra degradation in both cases for the same cost. (let's say first 10 minutes of driving with a cold battery is bad for the battery, so if you leave preheated for a long or for a 10 minute trip, you avoid the same amount of degradation)

I can't really come up with the right strategy :)
 
I am not so sure when it makes sense actually. On a long drive it will heat up anyway.
Cold cycling causes more cyclic degradation. But cyclic degradation is very small anyway, so you probably never notice that. If its cold, the calendar aging reduces more than the cyclic aging increases.

If reducing operating costs is the primary goal, drive without schedule or preconditioning before the drive.

If reducing degradation and/or having it nice and cousy onboard in the car, precondition with scheduled dep. or just start the cabin heat before.

I mostly use either preconditioning by starting the heat shortly before or use the scheduled dep.
 
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The problem with scheduled departure (for me at least) is that I get a notice that the cabin is up to temp and the suggestion that I turn off cabin heat. This is pretty consistently at 15 mintues prior to departure.
 
The problem with scheduled departure (for me at least) is that I get a notice that the cabin is up to temp and the suggestion that I turn off cabin heat. This is pretty consistently at 15 mintues prior to departure.
I only get the nocite that says about ”cabin temp ready” but never saw no ”turn off” suggestion, during three years and two different cars.
Live in a very cold climate (-40C right now) so I’m used to precondition.
 
preconditioning trades battery power for charging speed. Useful when you're on a long trip and want the most efficient charging at the next stop. Sometimes not needed if you have plenty of time and are more focused on efficiency/cost
The question in this case was regarding scheduled departure that also heats the battery vs not heating the batt and possible extra degradation from that. :)

(This kind of battery preconditioning is not the same, it just heats to be able to use regen.)
 
I only get the nocite that says about ”cabin temp ready” but never saw no ”turn off” suggestion, during three years and two different cars.
Live in a very cold climate (-40C right now) so I’m used to precondition.
Maybe I'm misstating as a suggestion. I'll look today but I think I get the notice and in that notice I can turn it off. Again will double check this but if I"m right, I'm taking the presence of the button in the notice as a suggestion.

I do often precondition but set departure to be 15 minutes later than reality. But also often I just turn the heat on. One of my complaints is
  • the schedule only let's you dial in at 15 minute intervals
  • the schedule isn't very flexible and geared only towards a consistent working person life. I don't leave at the same time every day. Most days it is inconsistent. I do have a regular Wednesday and Saturday that are different times. I have a 20 year old thermostat in my house that allows a far better scheduling than my car does.
  • and I'll repeat the lack of time granulairy
OK, I'm a liar and that's three complaints.
 
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Maybe I'm misstating as a suggestion. I'll look today but I think I get the notice and in that notice I can turn it off. Again will double check this but if I"m right, I'm taking the presence of the button in the notice as a suggestion.

I do often precondition but set departure to be 15 minutes later than reality. But also often I just turn the heat on. One of my complaints is
  • the schedule only let's you dial in at 15 minute intervals
  • the schedule isn't very flexible and geared only towards a consistent working person life. I don't leave at the same time every day. Most days it is inconsistent. I do have a regular Wednesday and Saturday that are different times. I have a 20 year old thermostat in my house that allows a far better scheduling than my car does.
  • and I'll repeat the lack of time granulairy
OK, I'm a liar and that's three complaints.
The scheduled time mskes the car be ready 15 minutes before and continue about 15-20 minutes efter the set time. So, a ~30 minute window to leave warm and nice.

The time to heat the cabin is short so a start of the heating from the fan will make it warm on board about 5-10 minutes before the drive.
 
I've never left it on that long to see if it turns off. Seems like a waste of money/electricity. I paid attention this morning and I two notifications. One is a normal notification with others on my phone/tablet. The other is a popup. Presumably from the app. THat is the notification that suggests turning off climatge. I didn't catch it this morning to see if that was a button but it looks like it is just text.

nsmail.jpg
 
The question in this case was regarding scheduled departure that also heats the battery vs not heating the batt and possible extra degradation from that. :)

(This kind of battery preconditioning is not the same, it just heats to be able to use regen.)

Granted. If you're plugged in at home, you'd be heating with home electricity. So you're now trading possible gains on the efficiency of your drive vs slight increase in home electric bill... more worthy trade-off, especially in cold climates.
 
Granted. If you're plugged in at home, you'd be heating with home electricity. So you're now trading possible gains on the efficiency of your drive vs slight increase in home electric bill... more worthy trade-off, especially in cold climates.
I am not so sure how small that increase in the bill is. For last month my car reports an average consumption of 240Wh/km, while based on the energy meter connected the EVSE the real gross consumption is 350Wh/km.
That is a huge difference, and I think it is mostly caused by preheating
 
I am not so sure how small that increase in the bill is. For last month my car reports an average consumption of 240Wh/km, while based on the energy meter connected the EVSE the real gross consumption is 350Wh/km.
That is a huge difference, and I think it is mostly caused by preheating
There’s a faulty idea of how to ideally charge an Tesla with best efficiency in cold wx in Swedish Facebook forums. (Somehow the humbleness there is 0.0 for accepting new thoughts, dunno why).
A good thing that this is not how I experience it here.

Anyway, earlier without heat pump it maybe could have been an good idea to charge at arrival.

But with the function of the heat pump + octovalve and use if battery heat, the best way must be to charge late and at maximum possible power (preferable 11kW for AC). Having the car inside a garage if possible would also be good.

I havent kept track of the input energy lately, but fir the M3P it was a little more than 10% over the year. More wintertime with preheating etc, but charging late in a warm garage means the battery is warm enough not to need battery heat, and the heat generated is used by the heat pump in the morning drive to heat the cabin.
Not much losses.

The heat pump/octovalve/battery+Drive unit heats is fantastic. Understanding how these work together give us the opportunity to maximize the win from this system.

I have two examples that almost have to be told about, even if the post will be slightly long.

We did have extreme cold for one week.
Mostly -35 to -45C in the areas where I live and work.
I had to go to work 300 km away during this cold period. It was extremly cold both ways.
The home trip started after two days/nights with -40* to -41C, with MSP parked outside at work. Leaving work at official -35C I supercharged on the nearby SuC, and then drove 300 km home. It was -30C arriving home.
My MSP mostly use ~200Wh/km summertime when driving longer drives with the 21”. Wintertime on 20” plaid-arachnid look-alikes with studded tyres.

I had 220Wh/km when arriving home and the average temp during this drive must have been around -30C or so.
For the first ~ 2 hours when the battery still had heat energy to deliver to the heat pump, the consumption was about 210-215Wh/km, thats less than 10% extra consumption compared to summertime.

Cool (intended) to have a real range in extreme cold that is not much less than the summer range :)
IMG_6792.jpeg

*The temperature indication is not correct on my MSP. Real temp -30C here, and it only showed -28C parking om an airport with the official temp -35C
How come it can be driven so efficiently in cold?

Well, the secret is that with the heatpump system with all things listed earlier, the heat pump prefers to use the battery heat energy before the outside air for heating.
Below ~ -10C the outside air can not be used efficiently at all.

So a freakin cold day, the car do not care much about this (the air resistance is higher, so slightly more consumption due to this).
But as long as the battery is warm and can deliver heat to the heat pump, the car will be very efficient. Very efficient actually.

There was some comments of the heat pump being non efficient on short drives, so I made a few tests at home last weekend (at about -28C).
First test,
car in the warmed garage, heated the battery to +17- + 18C (to be warm but nit as warm as a home charge in my garage makes it. Preheated the cabin to have it heated already not to disturb the test.
The 7 minute 6km drive ended at 189Wh/km.
Second test,
Car outside, cold soaked to ambiemt with cell temp -4C (colder than planned, was aiming to have regen working):
The same drive but I started by driving around to get the cabin warmed up. Before the test, i parked abd briefly went outside to trigger a new trip measure of consumption.
The car did not actively heat the battery so it stayed below regen limit.
6km / 7 minute drive costed 363Wh/km. Regen seem to be about 10% of total energy so if we had the battery warm enough for regen we probably would be around 330Wh/km.

Last test, basically the same as test 2 but warm battery.
Car parked outside, cold soaked to about the same but the battery heated with dragstrip mode to +13- +14C (was to lazy to wait for same temps as test1. Also driven a little to make the cabin warm before the test. Consumption 214 Wh/km.

It’s a huge difference!
And this can come for free by charging late with high power (preferably in a warmed garage but not necessarily).

I know not all can use do this practically and in some cases only the first drive of the day will offer a warm battery, but at least knowing the tricks might be helpful the times it is possible.

Even if the car is outside, charging late with high power will make it possible to use the combination of the battery heating already paid for, plus the charging heat losses to heat the car, reducing consumption.


*) -40C = -40F
 
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This is very interesting, thank you very much!

I use a 2018 Model S, no heatpump, so it seems that the heatpump makes a huge difference.

Actually I use scheduled charging with 5kw, this makes the car to charge during the night in multiple session, each lasting for approx. 40-50 minutes, adding 3-4kwh to the battery, then no charging for half an hour and so on.
Then in the morning it still actively preheats the battery, so it seems that my charging pattern is not even enough to keep the battery warm with the waste heat, not even in 0C degrees.
 
There’s a faulty idea of how to ideally charge an Tesla with best efficiency in cold wx in Swedish Facebook forums. (Somehow the humbleness there is 0.0 for accepting new thoughts, dunno why).
A good thing that this is not how I experience it here.

Anyway, earlier without heat pump it maybe could have been an good idea to charge at arrival.

But with the function of the heat pump + octovalve and use if battery heat, the best way must be to charge late and at maximum possible power (preferable 11kW for AC). Having the car inside a garage if possible would also be good.

I havent kept track of the input energy lately, but fir the M3P it was a little more than 10% over the year. More wintertime with preheating etc, but charging late in a warm garage means the battery is warm enough not to need battery heat, and the heat generated is used by the heat pump in the morning drive to heat the cabin.
Not much losses.

The heat pump/octovalve/battery+Drive unit heats is fantastic. Understanding how these work together give us the opportunity to maximize the win from this system.

I have two examples that almost have to be told about, even if the post will be slightly long.

We did have extreme cold for one week.
Mostly -35 to -45C in the areas where I live and work.
I had to go to work 300 km away during this cold period. It was extremly cold both ways.
The home trip started after two days/nights with -40* to -41C, with MSP parked outside at work. Leaving work at official -35C I supercharged on the nearby SuC, and then drove 300 km home. It was -30C arriving home.
My MSP mostly use ~200Wh/km summertime when driving longer drives with the 21”. Wintertime on 20” plaid-arachnid look-alikes with studded tyres.

I had 220Wh/km when arriving home and the average temp during this drive must have been around -30C or so.
For the first ~ 2 hours when the battery still had heat energy to deliver to the heat pump, the consumption was about 210-215Wh/km, thats less than 10% extra consumption compared to summertime.

Cool (intended) to have a real range in extreme cold that is not much less than the summer range :)
View attachment 1008060
*The temperature indication is not correct on my MSP. Real temp -30C here, and it only showed -28C parking om an airport with the official temp -35C
How come it can be driven so efficiently in cold?

Well, the secret is that with the heatpump system with all things listed earlier, the heat pump prefers to use the battery heat energy before the outside air for heating.
Below ~ -10C the outside air can not be used efficiently at all.

So a freakin cold day, the car do not care much about this (the air resistance is higher, so slightly more consumption due to this).
But as long as the battery is warm and can deliver heat to the heat pump, the car will be very efficient. Very efficient actually.

There was some comments of the heat pump being non efficient on short drives, so I made a few tests at home last weekend (at about -28C).
First test,
car in the warmed garage, heated the battery to +17- + 18C (to be warm but nit as warm as a home charge in my garage makes it. Preheated the cabin to have it heated already not to disturb the test.
The 7 minute 6km drive ended at 189Wh/km.
Second test,
Car outside, cold soaked to ambiemt with cell temp -4C (colder than planned, was aiming to have regen working):
The same drive but I started by driving around to get the cabin warmed up. Before the test, i parked abd briefly went outside to trigger a new trip measure of consumption.
The car did not actively heat the battery so it stayed below regen limit.
6km / 7 minute drive costed 363Wh/km. Regen seem to be about 10% of total energy so if we had the battery warm enough for regen we probably would be around 330Wh/km.

Last test, basically the same as test 2 but warm battery.
Car parked outside, cold soaked to about the same but the battery heated with dragstrip mode to +13- +14C (was to lazy to wait for same temps as test1. Also driven a little to make the cabin warm before the test. Consumption 214 Wh/km.

It’s a huge difference!
And this can come for free by charging late with high power (preferably in a warmed garage but not necessarily).

I know not all can use do this practically and in some cases only the first drive of the day will offer a warm battery, but at least knowing the tricks might be helpful the times it is possible.

Even if the car is outside, charging late with high power will make it possible to use the combination of the battery heating already paid for, plus the charging heat losses to heat the car, reducing consumption.


*) -40C = -40F
Does heatpump always come with octovalve and all the niceness you mentioned, or are there different levels, like "heatpump only" and "heatpump+octovalve"?
 
There’s a faulty idea of how to ideally charge an Tesla with best efficiency in cold wx in Swedish Facebook forums. (Somehow the humbleness there is 0.0 for accepting new thoughts, dunno why).
A good thing that this is not how I experience it here.

Anyway, earlier without heat pump it maybe could have been an good idea to charge at arrival.

But with the function of the heat pump + octovalve and use if battery heat, the best way must be to charge late and at maximum possible power (preferable 11kW for AC). Having the car inside a garage if possible would also be good.

I havent kept track of the input energy lately, but fir the M3P it was a little more than 10% over the year. More wintertime with preheating etc, but charging late in a warm garage means the battery is warm enough not to need battery heat, and the heat generated is used by the heat pump in the morning drive to heat the cabin.
Not much losses.

The heat pump/octovalve/battery+Drive unit heats is fantastic. Understanding how these work together give us the opportunity to maximize the win from this system.

I have two examples that almost have to be told about, even if the post will be slightly long.

We did have extreme cold for one week.
Mostly -35 to -45C in the areas where I live and work.
I had to go to work 300 km away during this cold period. It was extremly cold both ways.
The home trip started after two days/nights with -40* to -41C, with MSP parked outside at work. Leaving work at official -35C I supercharged on the nearby SuC, and then drove 300 km home. It was -30C arriving home.
My MSP mostly use ~200Wh/km summertime when driving longer drives with the 21”. Wintertime on 20” plaid-arachnid look-alikes with studded tyres.

I had 220Wh/km when arriving home and the average temp during this drive must have been around -30C or so.
For the first ~ 2 hours when the battery still had heat energy to deliver to the heat pump, the consumption was about 210-215Wh/km, thats less than 10% extra consumption compared to summertime.

Cool (intended) to have a real range in extreme cold that is not much less than the summer range :)
View attachment 1008060
*The temperature indication is not correct on my MSP. Real temp -30C here, and it only showed -28C parking om an airport with the official temp -35C
How come it can be driven so efficiently in cold?

Well, the secret is that with the heatpump system with all things listed earlier, the heat pump prefers to use the battery heat energy before the outside air for heating.
Below ~ -10C the outside air can not be used efficiently at all.

So a freakin cold day, the car do not care much about this (the air resistance is higher, so slightly more consumption due to this).
But as long as the battery is warm and can deliver heat to the heat pump, the car will be very efficient. Very efficient actually.

There was some comments of the heat pump being non efficient on short drives, so I made a few tests at home last weekend (at about -28C).
First test,
car in the warmed garage, heated the battery to +17- + 18C (to be warm but nit as warm as a home charge in my garage makes it. Preheated the cabin to have it heated already not to disturb the test.
The 7 minute 6km drive ended at 189Wh/km.
Second test,
Car outside, cold soaked to ambiemt with cell temp -4C (colder than planned, was aiming to have regen working):
The same drive but I started by driving around to get the cabin warmed up. Before the test, i parked abd briefly went outside to trigger a new trip measure of consumption.
The car did not actively heat the battery so it stayed below regen limit.
6km / 7 minute drive costed 363Wh/km. Regen seem to be about 10% of total energy so if we had the battery warm enough for regen we probably would be around 330Wh/km.

Last test, basically the same as test 2 but warm battery.
Car parked outside, cold soaked to about the same but the battery heated with dragstrip mode to +13- +14C (was to lazy to wait for same temps as test1. Also driven a little to make the cabin warm before the test. Consumption 214 Wh/km.

It’s a huge difference!
And this can come for free by charging late with high power (preferably in a warmed garage but not necessarily).

I know not all can use do this practically and in some cases only the first drive of the day will offer a warm battery, but at least knowing the tricks might be helpful the times it is possible.

Even if the car is outside, charging late with high power will make it possible to use the combination of the battery heating already paid for, plus the charging heat losses to heat the car, reducing consumption.


*) -40C = -40F
As a comparison, my 2018 MS charged this morning for 4 hours and 10 minutes continously with 5kW, then before it reached the charge limit, I manually switched on the climate in the app, and the car started to perform battery preheating. So apparently no extra heat in the battery to spare. At - 2C ambient temperature.
 
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