Since Tesla Wall Connectors are out of stock...

[Rocdude]

Yes, run everything by your electrician. If you ask to install the 14-60R this should be standard, but just make sure they install a 3 conductor + ground circuit/cable. The wall connector doesn’t use the neutral and neither does the mobile connector, but if you want to plug something else into that receptacle it may want a neutral. If you hardwire the wall connector the electrician may save money by running a 2 conductor + ground circuit since the wall connector doesn’t need a neutral. One day if you switch chargers it may require a neutral.

Ok. If you use a 14-60 receptacle with the 14-50 to 14-60 adapter do you get 48 amp charging or does the tesla mobile connector restrict you to 30 amp?

Are you getting 48 amp charging to your Y i.e 48 miles/hour charge using the 60 amp circuit with 14-60 receptacle connected to the Y using the standard mobile charger that comes with the Y?

 

[Rocdude]

Ok. If you use a 14-60 receptacle with the 14-50 to 14-60 adapter do you get 48 amp charging or does the tesla mobile connector restrict you to 30 amp?

Are you getting 48 amp charging to your Y i.e 48 miles/hour charge using the 60 amp circuit with 14-60 receptacle connected to the Y using the standard mobile charger that comes with the Y?

Ok, I got the answer. Even with this setup, one can only get 32 amp mx due to limitation with the tesla charger wire...

.......Cars with the standard-range battery has an onboard charger that can handle up to 32 amps. Cars with the long-range battery has an onboard charger that can handle up to 48 amps. However, the Gen 2 Mobile Connector maxes out at 32 amps. It is a limitation of the size of the charging cable.......

 

[phil4791eng]

Ok, I got the answer. Even with this setup, one can only get 32 amp mx due to limitation with the tesla charger wire...

.......Cars with the standard-range battery has an onboard charger that can handle up to 32 amps. Cars with the long-range battery has an onboard charger that can handle up to 48 amps. However, the Gen 2 Mobile Connector maxes out at 32 amps. It is a limitation of the size of the charging cable.......

The only way to get 48 amps is with the wall connector (hard wired or plugged into a 60A circuit). The mobile charger limits your charging rate no matter if it’s plugged into a 50A or 60A circuit.

 

[Pilot1226]

Personally I like the idea of the pigtailed 14-50 HWC for a few reasons;

electrician can do the 14-50 for me so I don’t zap myself, but I can DIY the pigtail pretty easily and save on the install cost.

if the HWC ever fails I can use my MC and adapter as a backup.

Keeping the 14-50 connected all the time in a weatherproof box reduces wear and tear compared to just using the MC 14-50 all the time...

40A at 240V is a lot of power. I don’t mind losing the 8A not having it hardwired to a 60A breaker and having the electrician coming out to swap the 50A breaker. I could see an argument if you routinely needed to charge that last little bit before time of use spending increased like a super off peak timing, but for me it’s not worth it.

Charging for 8 hours at 240 (before efficiency losses)

32A Mobile Connector = 7.68 kW = 61.4 kW
40A HWC in a 14-50 = 9.6 kW = 76.8 kW (more than 0-100% SOC)
48A HWC in hardwired = 11.52 kW = 92 kW

 

[Rocky_H]

I had a NEMA 14-60 receptacle installed. You can plug the mobile connector into It with an adapter and you can put a 60 amp plug on the wall connector and get the max 48 amp out of the wall connector.

Yeah, you confused a few people by saying the wrong thing. You're talking about plugging your wall connector in, but said mobile connector.

40A at 240V is a lot of power.

Yes, it certainly is, and 48A is even more than that. That's why I hate this idea of putting 14-50 pigtails on the wall connectors. It's getting unsafe. Do you know why there are no 80A or 100A or 150A outlet types? Because relying on squeeze tension of the plug/receptacle method to make good metal contact for high current is not very solid or long term reliable or safe. 60A is the highest allowed receptacle type. You are adding in another connection weak point by putting it though a plug. I already wouldn't recommend that for a wall connector on a 50A circuit, and I sure as hell would recommend against it for a 60A circuit.

 

[phil4791eng]

Yeah, you confused a few people by saying the wrong thing. You're talking about plugging your wall connector in, but said mobile connector.

Yes, it certainly is, and 48A is even more than that. That's why I hate this idea of putting 14-50 pigtails on the wall connectors. It's getting unsafe. Do you know why there are no 80A or 100A or 150A outlet types? Because relying on squeeze tension of the plug/receptacle method to make good metal contact for high current is not very solid or long term reliable or safe. 60A is the highest allowed receptacle type. You are adding in another connection weak point by putting it though a plug. I already wouldn't recommend that for a wall connector on a 50A circuit, and I sure as hell would recommend against it for a 60A circuit.

I meant to say mobile connector in that sentence. I was saying if you have a 14-60R you can plug the mobile connector into it with the adapter I posted and you can plug the wall connector into it if you put a plug on the wall connector.

 

[ElectricIAC]

What is my other best option? I had an electrician look in my garage and all the electrical is right there, he said its a simple install. His idea was to mount a Nema 1450 wall connector and he said I can use an adapter with that. If and when I can get my hands on the Tesla Wall Charger, would that just plug into the Nema 1450 wall connector that will be installed?

I've got a spare HPWC I could let go.

 

[Thp3]

What is my other best option? I had an electrician look in my garage and all the electrical is right there, he said its a simple install. His idea was to mount a Nema 1450 wall connector and he said I can use an adapter with that. If and when I can get my hands on the Tesla Wall Charger, would that just plug into the Nema 1450 wall connector that will be installed?

yes.

that’s your best option. If you get a Tesla Wall Charger, they now come with a short electrical line with NEMA 14-50 plug to power Itself then you can put your mobile charger back in the trunk.

Tesla has the NEMA 14-50 adapter you need as an accessory.

 

[Pilot1226]

The Gen3 HWC come with a pigtail for a 14-50?

 

[Thp3]

The Gen3 HWC come with a pigtail for a 14-50?

The January 2020 Gen3 manual doesn’t say so. Just direct wiring.

I got a Gen2 in May, 2020 because I needed the 24 foot cable. It broke. I was told to put in a NEMA 14-50 plug as the replacement would use that. It seems like to most flexible choice.

I think the high amp home chargers, 60-80 amps, are not being made any more. Yeah, just informed speculation.

 

[Pilot1226]

Gotcha. I mean, if a 14-50 pigtail is rated for an oven or range for that amperage, it is plausible that it should hold up for use with connecting a HWC to a 14-50 outlet that is already installed. It would offer some extra usability if something happened to the HWC so you could still charge via Outlet, but realistically if you had to swap them out it wouldn’t take long.

 

[Rocky_H]

that’s your best option. If you get a Tesla Wall Charger, they now come with a short electrical line with NEMA 14-50 plug to power Itself then you can put your mobile charger back in the trunk.

No, that is false.

The Gen3 HWC come with a pigtail for a 14-50?

No, that isn't true.
There was a short period of time when there was a version of the Gen2 that was being sold as a corded unit with a 14-50 plug on it, but Tesla discontinued that over a year ago. The current Gen3 has never had a cord/plug version.

Gotcha. I mean, if a 14-50 pigtail is rated for an oven or range for that amperage, it is plausible that it should hold up for use with connecting a HWC to a 14-50 outlet that is already installed.

Hard wired is always going to be more robust and safe than plug in. That is an extra set of touch contacts that the hard wired does not have, so it is one more weak point for a failure.
And the other thing is that appliances like dryers and ovens cycle their heating elements on and off. So their wiring has time to dissipate that heat while it's not being constantly generated. They are not continuous loads that run for hours like the car charging circuits, so those are a harder type of use.
So yes, by regulations and code, they can both be acceptable, there are multiple factors that make the plug-in car charging method at high amps a harder, more stressful use case.

 

[brinox]

There are so many bad design choices in terms of electrical installation being thrown around in this thread.

Will a Tesla Wall Connector (HPWC) with an aftermarket pigtail connection to a NEMA 14-50 or 14-60 oulet work? Probably. Should you install it that way long term? Probably not. The HPWC is designed for a hard-wired connection. If you're paying an electrician to install a 14-60 outlet so you can self-install the HPWC, then IMO, you're really doing it wrong.

Use an existing 240v outlet that you have easy access to using the included Tesla Universal Mobile Connector, buying the proper adapter if needed. Have a licensed electrician install a 14-30 or 14-50 circuit if you don't have an existing one. Or, buy/procure a Tesla HPWC and have it professionally installed with the proper gauge wire and circuit breaker.

Using these appliance pigtails is against local and national codes for a dedicated EV charging system at best, and at worst could lead to a very destructive and expensive fire.

 

[phil4791eng]

I thought the mobile connector that comes with the MY had a 14-50 adapter like the mobile connector they are selling in the Tesla shop. Does it only come with the standard 115V/15A plug?

 

[Chancellor32]

I’m selling my Gen 3 if anyone is interested in it.

 

[Rocky_H]

I thought the mobile connector that comes with the MY had a 14-50 adapter like the mobile connector they are selling in the Tesla shop. Does it only come with the standard 115V/15A plug?

As of about a year ago? Year and a half ago? They stopped including the 14-50 adapter with any of their cars. A lot of people just don't have any use for it, and it's a waste. Lots of people choose to get a wall connector instead, or maybe they are installing a 14-30 outlet instead of 14-50 because they have less capacity in their electrical panels, etc. So if you want one, you do need to go ahead and order it.

 

[Threader]

Wall connector 18" back in stock. Just bought one.

 

[Pilot1226]

Might not be a bad idea anyway - I'd rather have an adapter I could possibly need rather than one I need and don't have.

 

[L_Mont]

I have a Wall Connector Gen2 with a 50A NEMA 15-50 pigtail instead of a direct connection. I used ferrules over the conductors to connect the pigtail cable to the WC. This is the same setup used by the Tesla Service Center showroom in Atlanta. I measured the temperature (using my FLIR camera and IR thermometer) and voltage drop across the connector while charging at 40A for over 2 hours. I do not see any significant temperature rise or voltage drop at the connector. I do not understand the concern about the pigtail setup.

BTW, the connection between the car and the charging cable is made and broken twice a day. And sometime with much larger current when supercharging. My connection between the WC and outlet is static, disconnected only if there is a problem with the WC or if I want to charge another car other than Tesla.

 

[Rocky_H]

with a 50A NEMA 15-50 pigtail

14-50

I used ferrules over the conductors to connect the pigtail cable to the WC.

Good--ferrules and screw clamping is a good solid connection method for high current applications.

I measured the temperature (using my FLIR camera and IR thermometer) and voltage drop across the connector while charging at 40A for over 2 hours.

Which "the connector"? Charging handle? Wall connector body where the pigtail is connected inside? Plug head at the outlet point?

I do not understand the concern about the pigtail setup.

It's the extra unnecessary plug/outlet spring tension connection. That is a much weaker connection than the ferrules and screw clamp connection you mentioned above, where it is connected into the body of the wall connector. With the direct wire installation method, you only have that ferrule and screwed in connection, which is more solid.