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Small Fire, NBD, right?

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**Before anyone says anything - outlet installed by a union electrician, 6 gauge wire, 50amp breaker.**

2017 MS 60D with 19,000 miles

Last night I came home & plugged in. I went to grab my briefcase out of my rear hatch & I smelled something familiar...electrical fire (I was a firefighter for 10 years & a fire investigator for 6). I looked at my nearby electrical panel and notices that there were scorch marks on it. I went over & flipped my main breaker. After I got my flashlight on my phone out (and heard my wife yelling at me for the power being out) I saw scorch marks on the drywall & plug for the car. I unplugged the charger from the wall & car. I immediately removed the drywall to check for fire extension - nothing had left the metal junction box. The scorch marks were old, there was no heat coming from anywhere. I'm actually not sure when this happened, it could have happened when I was charging the night before, I just didn't notice it in the morning. Electrical fire smell will stay around for a while, my garage still smells this morning after being open all night to air out.

The fire clearly started due to a problem originating at the outlet. My initial thought was that a wire came loose at the receptacle and caused a short. The 50amp breaker did not flip. One of the 6 gauge wires had melted up. The receptacle had excessive damage to the point of origin where the wires met the receptacle. Everything looked like it was just a wiring accident. That made sense to me - I had come back from a trip 3 days prior & plugged back in my charger into the outlet, so I figured I pushed too hard and a wire came loose. I figured this was the end of the case & an issue I would take up with my electrician.

I posted the images on the Tesla Worldwide Facebook group with no narrative really. I wanted to see what others thought. Those who provided actual insight leaned the same way I did - wiring issue.

As I said above, I was a fire investigator (not a very good one or experienced one). I emailed the pictures I took (and attached here) to two friends 1) the head of Chicago Fire Departments Bomb & Arson and 2) a rather "famous" fire investigator who is my father's close friend. Both came back and said the same thing - it may not actually have been a wiring issue because of the way the wires are in the harness & that without opening up or x-raying the receptacle, it's difficult to give any more insight as to what the actual origin was, the plug or the receptacle. Both stated that we'd most likely never know & they would rule it accidental electrical fire and be done.

Then....this morning I went to supercharge to make sure I could get through my day...walked around the store the SC is at for ~30 minutes. Charged to 80%. Phone alerted me charging was almost complete, I walked back to my car. When I got to the SC, nothing but the smell of electrical fire outside. No warnings no alerts on the car. They were doing construction by the SC, so I figured it was probably that. Drove 30 miles to my office, got out, smell still there. I walked out just before posting this (2 hours after getting to work) and the smell is still there & someone at my office smelled it too.

I also accept the fact that this smell may be in my head & I’m just crazy.

Called Tesla, the kid I spoke to at my local Service Center did not seem concerned at all. I said I'd be there at 1:30pm today, he said they didn't have an appointment then....I said I'd be in anyways.

I think my main concern and what I'm wondering is doesn't the 15-50 plug have a thermal fuse? What exactly does that do? I figured that would have disconnected, but the car was still charging fine when I flipped the breaker. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what that is.

Anything I need to make sure Tesla checks/does when I bring it in today?
 

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I think my main concern and what I'm wondering is doesn't the 15-50* plug have a thermal fuse? What exactly does that do? I figured that would have disconnected, but the car was still charging fine when I flipped the breaker. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what that is.

Bring in your UMC and 14-15* adaptor (which is what I assume you use to charge at home, you didn’t specify).

Sorry, I figured the pictures gave it away. I use the 15-40* plug & the mobile connector :)

It's 14-50, not 15-50, 14-15 or 15-40.
 
nbd? are you kidding any sort of a fire ignited by the unit or connection is a VERY BIG DEAL, unplug your car, unplug the unit, flip the breaker and get someone in to inspect and repair.

I did all that. Nothing more I can do until Tesla looks at it. Everyone lived. No real damage was done. Could have been worse. Not going to get upset about it or worry about it. Not sure what the cause was, so I'm not sure who to be upset with, the electrician, Tesla, or both. I'd rather just have a glass of scotch and relax :)
 
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I did all that. Nothing more I can do until Tesla looks at it. Everyone lived. No real damage was done. Could have been worse. Not going to get upset about it or worry about it. Not sure what the cause was, so I'm not sure who to be upset with, the electrician, Tesla, or both. I'd rather just have a glass of scotch and relax :)
Definitely have each device inspected by the appropriate specialist for each. That said, by the looks of the pictures, it would appear that the heat originated inside the 14-50R receptacle. This is usually due to poor conductivity (lack of a good solid connection), not a short. This could have been a loose connection on the (black) load line, or a defect in the receptacle, or even an obstruction in the receptacle blade slot. Did your electrician use a micro-torque wrench to verify proper lug tightness on the wires?
I am surprised, that if the UMC plug has a thermal fuse, that it didn't shutdown.
 
**Before anyone says anything - outlet installed by a union electrician, 6 gauge wire, 50amp breaker.**

2017 MS 60D with 19,000 miles

Last night I came home & plugged in. I went to grab my briefcase out of my rear hatch & I smelled something familiar...electrical fire

A NEMA 14-50 (range plug) is not designed to be plugged/unplugged on a regular basis. The metal will fatigue and the R will not hold the P with enough force. This will eventually cause arcing and burn out the receptacle.

A solution would be to leave it plugged in.
 
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Definitely have each device inspected by the appropriate specialist for each. That said, by the looks of the pictures, it would appear that the heat originated inside the 14-50R receptacle. This is usually due to poor conductivity (lack of a good solid connection), not a short. This could have been a loose connection on the (black) load line, or a defect in the receptacle, or even an obstruction in the receptacle blade slot. Did your electrician use a micro-torque wrench to verify proper lug tightness on the wires?
I am surprised, that if the UMC plug has a thermal fuse, that it didn't shutdown.

I originally thought that it was due to a lack of a solid connection as well (short was the wrong term for me to use I guess). However, the fact that the UMC thermal fuse didn't cause a shut down and the electrical fire smell I am still smelling from the car 12+ hours later makes me think it's something else going on.
 
A NEMA 14-50 (range plug) is not designed to be plugged/unplugged on a regular basis. The metal will fatigue and the R will not hold the P with enough force. This will eventually cause arcing and burn out the receptacle.

A solution would be to leave it plugged in.

I have only disconnected the 14-50 plug from the wall about once a month when I'm on an overnight road trip, so 7 disconnects since I've had it.
 
I have only disconnected the 14-50 plug from the wall about once a month when I'm on an overnight road trip, so 7 disconnects since I've had it.

You probably just bought a bad one. QA in China not the best. You might try to find a higher quality receptacle. Perhaps buy another adapter and leave it plugged in at all times. Best solution would be to install a level 2 charger

I'm certain all you have is an arcing plug. NBD

EDIT: just noticed in your pic the receptacle says "made in USA". lol must be using too much recycled metal.
 
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Scary. Please keep us updated on what you find.

I have a UMC that is always plugged in and another UMC for road trip purposes. I knew about the metal fatigue issue on the 14-50 and thats why i have the dedicated UMC.

but based on your usage pattern, that doesnt seem to always resolve this. I also thought the newer UMC resolved the short issue at the adapter. Also doesnt seem to resolve.

Overall, seems like i need to not use the UMC and install a wall charger...
 
Did the installing electrician torque the screws holding the wires in to the receptacle to proper specifications or did he use his "calibrated wrist"? If the screw for the black wire was not tight enough it could start to arc which will get the receptacle hot in a hurry.
 
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I originally thought that it was due to a lack of a solid connection as well (short was the wrong term for me to use I guess). However, the fact that the UMC thermal fuse didn't cause a shut down and the electrical fire smell I am still smelling from the car 12+ hours later makes me think it's something else going on.
So, the thermal fuse inside the 14-50P adapter (if it exists) is just a temperature reactive fuse buried inside the plug housing. If there's a problem that originates inside the plug housing, it would react to the over-temperature and blow. But it the heat originated from outside the plug housing, it would have to heat soak the plug and melt more of the outside before it would trip the internal thermal fuse.

Based on those pics, the heat originated inside the receptacle housing and disseminated out from there; scorching the receptacle black load wire connection while melting the black load wire insulation. In the other direction, heat travelled to the front of the receptacle; creating enough heat at the insertion point to melt the front of the receptacle and adjacent plug adapter area.

If the car was malfunctioning, it would trip the UMC way before it could cause an issue that would create that much heat at the 14-50 plug.
If the UMC was malfunctioning, the heat issue would be inside the UMC itself.

This is most likely a load terminal on the receptacle not being torqued down sufficiently. It's more common than you think. Many 'skilled' tradesmen (be it an electrician or mechanic or ...) have a phobia to torque wrenches and required torque specs.
 
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This highlights something we've done since getting our EVs. Considering investing in some Z-Wave/Zigbee devices. We have our house outfitted with smoke/carbon monoxide detectors, as well as leak sensors, that will send notifications/alarms to your phone if anything is discovered.

We use Samsung SmartThings, but there are many other systems out there.

Not necessarily directly related, but something that could potentially save you money...if not lives.