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It depends... even Audi's own Quattro system is different depending on engine configuration (east-west or north-south). The earlier Quattros are reactive systems as it requires a certain wheel slip angle before power is diverted either to the front or rear. Later models with more electronics are more active, they anticipate the need for traction and sends power appropriately.Is the Tesla AWD anything like an Audi or any ICE AWD though? Tesla seem to push ‘dual motor’ rather than AWD.
The LR and Performance will always have a rear wheel bias, as the rear drive unit is always more powerful than the front unit. The Performance model in Track mode has an added level of adjustability.
No problems with your description of how the power allocation works on the dual motor M3.This is misleading. For normal driving, lets say 98% of the time, a LR or P is 100% real wheel drive. There is NO constant bias to the rear such as 70/30. If you doubt this, get yourself an OBD kit with scan my tesla or TesLax. The front motor is slaved to the rear motor and does absolutely nothing until either power or traction requirements demand its use. Driving along at constant speed, normal driving it will be 100% RWD. When my 3 is in "chill" mode I have to work hard to get the front motor to come to life. Sport mode is different, but you still have to put your foot down to make it AWD.
You could probably even get a Powerwall with the differenceThanks guys, I really appreciate your experience about both models. I cancelled my LR test drive and ordered RWD, and I feel released now.
The reasons are 90% of my driving is around Melbourne metropolitan, and I going to install home charge. For acceleration, I think for me 80% just showing off...
See AliExpress <$10dual motors badge
included in all models, or they were on SR+ anyway. $50 on gumtree and $145 delivered from Teslafloor mats
Real world range of the SR in AUS is ~380km.
Real world range of LR in Aus is ~480km.
That’s approx 26% more range.
Congrats!Thanks guys, I really appreciate your experience about both models. I cancelled my LR test drive and ordered RWD, and I feel released now.
The reasons are 90% of my driving is around Melbourne metropolitan, and I going to install home charge. For acceleration, I think for me 80% just showing off...
I think 5% loss after 100,000km is high end. That's only 250 cycles. Would mean the car would almost be worn out after just 1000 cycles. I'd say half (2.5% degradation after 100k) is about on the money expected right now for the LFP battery and it may do even better.There has been some throw away lines on here in other forums that your LR will become an SR+ (range wise) because the SR+'s LFP batteries dont degrade. This is total BS.
Firstly, there really is no long term real-world tests of how much LFP batteries degrade in a Tesla, with all its active battery management. But lets say a 5% degradation after 100,000 km would be minimum. That would put it 31% below a brand new LR. Tesla's battery warranty will replace a battery if it degrades by more than 30% in the LR. So theoretically impossible for a SR+ to have the same or longer range than a LR.
There are plenty of long term data on the LR battery, and it seems to holds around 90% of capacity after 250,000km. Most cars are near the scrape heap by then, so you can ignore the battery as the weak point of the car. It will likely outlast the car.
First thing any new Tesla owner should do is toggle the battery indicator on the screen from km to %. Just treat it like a phone. Oh, I have 30% charge left, I should plug in soon. The km range changes depending on your driving style, and makes some people panic unnecessarily about battery degradation.
I think 5% loss after 100,000km is high end. That's only 250 cycles. Would mean the car would almost be worn out after just 1000 cycles. I'd say half (2.5% degradation after 100k) is about on the money expected right now for the LFP battery and it may do even better.
I have home LFP batteries for 2 years now (on grid cycled hard). They are obviously not the exact same as in the Tesla and not quite subjected to the same environmental conditions but they are prismatic cells of the same chemistry, 2% loss after 500 (100-10%) cycles at this point reported in the BMS.
Maybe if 100,000km = 10 years @ 10k/year and calendar ageing is taken into account it might be a different story.
Really? Many videos on youtube would disagree.ok so for one, real world range of the LR is defo not 480km. To hit that you have to use like 155wh/km. 400km when brand new is more accurate.
My 3LR is nearly 2 years old and I easily have more than 400km of range - closer to 470km. In fact, I have over 400km at 90%.ok so for one, real world range of the LR is defo not 480km. To hit that you have to use like 155wh/km. 400km when brand new is more accurate.