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Struggling between Model 3 RWD and AWD
- Thread starter MonsterRat
- Start date
chrome
Member
It depends... even Audi's own Quattro system is different depending on engine configuration (east-west or north-south). The earlier Quattros are reactive systems as it requires a certain wheel slip angle before power is diverted either to the front or rear. Later models with more electronics are more active, they anticipate the need for traction and sends power appropriately.
Tesla's dual motor will behave very much like the active system, it relies on multiple inputs from sensors all over the car to determine where best to put power to depending on driving conditions. The LR and Performance will always have a rear wheel bias, as the rear drive unit is always more powerful than the front unit. The Performance model in Track mode has an added level of adjustability.
When I got my 3 I used the same philosophy I use with just about any technology: buy the best I can afford at the time so I won't have regrets.
This dates back to my first iPhone where I DIDN'T get the best I could afford and regretted (almost immediately) not getting more memory simply because I couldn't upgrade it later. Since then I always get the best I can and have not once regretted it.
In March 2020 I had a choice between SR, LR and Performance. While the SR was cheaper and would probably be more than enough, I didn't want to get in a situation at some point in the future where I needed the extra range. I didn't get the Performance because I knew there would no be any time I'd regret not having more performance (plus I could always get the acceleration boost if I needed to).
I have not for a second regretted my choice.
This dates back to my first iPhone where I DIDN'T get the best I could afford and regretted (almost immediately) not getting more memory simply because I couldn't upgrade it later. Since then I always get the best I can and have not once regretted it.
In March 2020 I had a choice between SR, LR and Performance. While the SR was cheaper and would probably be more than enough, I didn't want to get in a situation at some point in the future where I needed the extra range. I didn't get the Performance because I knew there would no be any time I'd regret not having more performance (plus I could always get the acceleration boost if I needed to).
I have not for a second regretted my choice.
This is misleading. For normal driving, lets say 98% of the time, a LR or P is 100% real wheel drive. There is NO constant bias to the rear such as 70/30. If you doubt this, get yourself an OBD kit with scan my tesla or TesLax. The front motor is slaved to the rear motor and does absolutely nothing until either power or traction requirements demand its use. Driving along at constant speed, normal driving it will be 100% RWD. When my 3 is in "chill" mode I have to work hard to get the front motor to come to life. Sport mode is different, but you still have to put your foot down to make it AWD.
chrome
Member
No problems with your description of how the power allocation works on the dual motor M3.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate your experience about both models. I cancelled my LR test drive and ordered RWD, and I feel released now.
The reasons are 90% of my driving is around Melbourne metropolitan, and I going to install home charge. For acceleration, I think for me 80% just showing off...
The reasons are 90% of my driving is around Melbourne metropolitan, and I going to install home charge. For acceleration, I think for me 80% just showing off...
Chuq
Well-Known Member
See AliExpress <$10
included in all models, or they were on SR+ anyway. $50 on gumtree and $145 delivered from Tesla
Go test drive the base model and see if it's enough for your ego.
There has been some throw away lines on here in other forums that your LR will become an SR+ (range wise) because the SR+'s LFP batteries dont degrade. This is total BS.
Firstly, there really is no long term real-world tests of how much LFP batteries degrade in a Tesla, with all its active battery management. But lets say a 5% degradation after 100,000 km would be minimum. That would put it 31% below a brand new LR. Tesla's battery warranty will replace a battery if it degrades by more than 30% in the LR. So theoretically impossible for a SR+ to have the same or longer range than a LR.
There are plenty of long term data on the LR battery, and it seems to holds around 90% of capacity after 250,000km. Most cars are near the scrape heap by then, so you can ignore the battery as the weak point of the car. It will likely outlast the car.
First thing any new Tesla owner should do is toggle the battery indicator on the screen from km to %. Just treat it like a phone. Oh, I have 30% charge left, I should plug in soon. The km range changes depending on your driving style, and makes some people panic unnecessarily about battery degradation.
Congrats!
I had the same dilemma and went with the LR. I still wonder if I should have gone for the SR.
The SR still has plenty of range and the LFP battery on the SR charges much quicker to 100% than the LR, will last a lot longer, and you don't have to think about charging patterns.
While I would be happy with the SR, the reason why I went for the LR was in addition to the longer range for trips, having AWD is safer in the wet, and in my opinion going up to a whole new performance class in addition to all the other benefits is worth the extra cost.
I got the P, but as many people have said... if you don't need/want the performance or the flash stereo, the RWD seems to be pretty good value, especially since it's under the LCT threshold even with FSD and is eligible for rebates.
I have only ever driven a P demo (and my own), so I can't say I can compare the 2. I wanted track mode and the fastest, since it might be a while before I can get another new car. I can say the premium stereo is nice, but an aftermarket upgrade can be bought. So it's down to AWD and a larger battery with different chemistry. I always thought the smart buy was the LR (especially since you can AB if you want a bit more go) but with the new battery and considerably lower out of pocket price, the RWD is a pretty compelling option. I'm just glad I'm not trying to make that decision!
I have only ever driven a P demo (and my own), so I can't say I can compare the 2. I wanted track mode and the fastest, since it might be a while before I can get another new car. I can say the premium stereo is nice, but an aftermarket upgrade can be bought. So it's down to AWD and a larger battery with different chemistry. I always thought the smart buy was the LR (especially since you can AB if you want a bit more go) but with the new battery and considerably lower out of pocket price, the RWD is a pretty compelling option. I'm just glad I'm not trying to make that decision!
I think 5% loss after 100,000km is high end. That's only 250 cycles. Would mean the car would almost be worn out after just 1000 cycles. I'd say half (2.5% degradation after 100k) is about on the money expected right now for the LFP battery and it may do even better.
I have home LFP batteries for 2 years now (on grid cycled hard). They are obviously not the exact same as in the Tesla and not quite subjected to the same environmental conditions but they are prismatic cells of the same chemistry, 2% loss after 500 (100-10%) cycles at this point reported in the BMS.
Maybe if 100,000km = 10 years @ 10k/year and calendar ageing is taken into account it might be a different story.
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Candleflame
Active Member
ok so for one, real world range of the LR is defo not 480km. To hit that you have to use like 155wh/km. 400km when brand new is more accurate.
5% loss at 100k kms is nothing. I have 16.5% at 40k kms. (180 cycles). LFP does much better obviously.
Really? Many videos on youtube would disagree.
Some users on WP with multiple years ownership are averaging like 140-150wh/km after 20,000km.
My 3LR is nearly 2 years old and I easily have more than 400km of range - closer to 470km. In fact, I have over 400km at 90%.
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