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Can you pick up a pair of traction mats? Sounds like they should be part of your kit.
I'd be worried that the Trac-Grabbers might just dig a bigger hole. Obviously make sure there's enough clearance in the wheel well too. With hi-lift be careful not have ti slip into the side of car. I'd recommend doing it with two people (though I've never had to use the lift mate adapter myself or the jack for that matter. haha).Trac-Grabbers are on order and be at my door Thursday. Also purchased the hi-lift adapter also due Thursday. I will reply with a review.
I've got oneThe car really needs a rear recovery point- simple.
The tow truck driver told me to hold off looking for the tow hook (had to unpack frank or trunk) while he looked under the front of the car. I don’t know what he attached to. Key to the success was my driving while he was pulling.Interested in this - might you be able to elaborate? I can get a tow vehicle behind it or to side of vehicle with tow hook but don’t want to tug at such a sharp angle where the strap will touch the front.
So are those rubber blocks a joke? no one has posted about them but me and I have never used one but it seems it should work?
Aren't there any tie down points?
How does Tesla secure these cars on ships? All the Japanese cars I have owned have tie down points.
Those should be enough for a gentle tug.
I use these when my car gets stuck in snow on my driveway:Good idea - I own a pair of maxxtraxx for my land cruiser. The problem with the M3 is the tires have very little traction anyways without mud in the tiny treads and hard compound. They won’t ever grab the maxxtraxx, just spin.
No pictures? I can't visualize all that in my head.Yea - most transport use the wheel web straps anymore.
So M3 is out of the bog. Couldn't wait for the other devices to show up. Asked some other tow/recovery folks on how they've done it. I've got plenty of large recovery straps but nothing small like wheel slings. Went to Wally Mart and grabbed two 20ft tow straps with loops (not hooks). Wrapped one through each rear wheel and back to center. Used large d-ring and fed all 4 loop ends into d-shackle and then my clip from the winch to the D-ring shackle. Placed the car in "Transport Mode." Began to take in slack to see the angles that the wheel straps were going to take based on the anchor point and my winch. Took sometime mainly because my 10K winch actually struggled with the wait and the mud that started to accumulate behind all 4 wheels. Lots of mud but the car is OK, no issues to report.
Fantastic. Now you have one more task to complete: pave the damn driveway!
I use these when my car gets stuck in snow on my driveway:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Tir...ds=B0046CZKIA&qid=1552009325&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Might be useful to have around for the future, although you solved your present problem.
Or trade in for AWD and get BFG Mud TerrainsThe correct response would be - only park on the driveway.
If it is P it seems unlikely that it would rotate. However I'm not sure how you'd get the strap to stay on the bottom instead of riding up to the center of the wheel? Maybe wrap it around the outside of the tire? Ug.The problem is if you're pulling straight back the wheel may rotate and then the strap will push against the bumper cover.
If nothing else snow is much, much easier to shovel. You can highpoint your entire vehicle on snow and it's just a couple hours with a single person, at most, of shoveling to get the wheels down to something with traction. I have firsthand experience here.I do a significant amount of overlanding (long distance 4wd) and I can honestly say based on this and past experience with snow, mud is far worse than snow as far as recovery.
If you had D-ring straps, you could have looped through and around the wheel, which would keep the straps on the outside of the wheel.If it is P it seems unlikely that it would rotate. However I'm not sure how you'd get the strap to stay on the bottom instead of riding up to the center of the wheel? Maybe wrap it around the outside of the tire? Ug.