android04
Active Member
If you ever get under there again make sure to inspect the subframe for any cracks as well. I kind of remember somebody with a Model S that had a subframe crack.
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Sway Bar Issues?
- Thread starter Mod Y Guy
- Start date
Just the other day, as I was leaving work, the rear noise was exceptionally bad. I grabbed my phone and just pointed towards the rear seats to see if the noise would show up on video. I was surprised just how loud and clear it was. You can ignore the video and just listen to the sound. It's definitely a metal "clanking", or "rattling", as presented on the video. I almost feel like I'm dealing with a couple different noises, in the rear suspension, that are clearly related. I know how hard it is to tell simply off sound but I thought I would throw up the link so you can at least hear what I'm dealing with. Any ideas at this point are welcomed and appreciated (it's been a few months of searching now with no solution). Thanks.
Rear Noise
Rear Noise
Are you sure you don't have someone trapped in the trunk?
I have a clunk sound that comes from the rear passenger side, but only occurs under the following conditions:
1) having just been parked and charging
2) taking a right hand turn at 5-10 mph in a parking garage down a slope
once my car completes the turn down the slope (the rear passenger wheel gets onto the slope), I get the “clunk” sound. It’s immediately once the weight shifts fully onto the slope.
could this potentially have anything to do with having been charging? Maybe it’s one of those mechanisms in the battery venting that moves abruptly from the shift in weight going down the slope, but otherwise would’ve slowly moved back into position on its own?
or do you guys think this is definitely suspension-related?
1) having just been parked and charging
2) taking a right hand turn at 5-10 mph in a parking garage down a slope
once my car completes the turn down the slope (the rear passenger wheel gets onto the slope), I get the “clunk” sound. It’s immediately once the weight shifts fully onto the slope.
could this potentially have anything to do with having been charging? Maybe it’s one of those mechanisms in the battery venting that moves abruptly from the shift in weight going down the slope, but otherwise would’ve slowly moved back into position on its own?
or do you guys think this is definitely suspension-related?
I had a clunking noise coming from my front suspension. Mostly the drivers side. It would happen ione when went over a manhole that wasn’t even with the road. “Clunk” every time. I have UP sway bars on the front and back. I read that sometimes the sway bar bushing can cause this. UP sent me free ones and I replaced the sway bar end links, just the factories that cost $10 each. After this the problem stopped. Maybe this will help you.
Your problem is you should have replaced the whole strut/coilover as a kit, not just springs. I have an Awd LR dual motor 2019 Tesla, and have gotten all my mods through primarily MPP and few unplugged ones. Stick with these, it will bring you to another level of performance. List of my modes include: MPP sport coil over kit, MPP rear camber and toe, MPP rear cyber traction arms & trailing arms, light weight rear spring arm, MPP front upper A arms, lower front bushings, MPP 12 volt lithium battery(25 pounds dropped),Unplugged rear spoiler for efficency, and last but not least Michelin Pilot Sport 4's on stock 18's. My tesla is freaking race car and I love smoking obsolete ice cars to beat. I saw this post and was leaning towards replacing sway bars both front & rear, bc i replaced ever other dame thing right?
Hey man, I have driven some clunkers in my life and I had almost the same problem as you with my Civic only difference is I wasn't lowered, I had this horrible clunk noise that came from the rear, I changed the struts, camber arms even the calipers and nothing would work.
You say that you hear it from the rear seats just like I did, what I ended up finding was that I didn't apply the correct torque to the nut strut mount and it loosen over time so much to the point where the nut stripped the threads on the stud.
I would make sure to check those two screws on top and torque them to whatever value and possibly use thread-locker or a lock washer to make sure they stay down
NJturtlePower
Living the Dream, Driving the Future!
Any news from Eibach about the lateral movement on these rear sway bars? Just sent them a tech message as well....
Had mine installed for about a year now, and sure enough when it went up on the lift yesterday it's shifted to the right about 1+" and seems to cause control arm rubbing with the end link. Should have taken a picture but forgot. In this position it also really crimps the left side lower end link bushing.
Any reports on if those aftermarket lateral locks do any good? Thought I read they did little to nothing to keep things in place.
Considering putting the OEM rear bar back on at this point if there is no revision...not worth damage to the other suspension components or unpredictable handling due to the shift.
My other issue is the click/clunk noise at low speeds turning in the front since day one of install. I know for a FACT it was not there before the Eibach spring and sway bar install. A few shops thought it was the springs, but considering what I've been reading here and elsewhere it's likely the front sway bar, similar to the UP bars that needed an updated bushing.
Has anyone just removed the Eibach front bar completely to rule out the noise? My rear bar still seems to be silent, but like I said the lateral shift is no good either way.
Had mine installed for about a year now, and sure enough when it went up on the lift yesterday it's shifted to the right about 1+" and seems to cause control arm rubbing with the end link. Should have taken a picture but forgot. In this position it also really crimps the left side lower end link bushing.
Any reports on if those aftermarket lateral locks do any good? Thought I read they did little to nothing to keep things in place.
Considering putting the OEM rear bar back on at this point if there is no revision...not worth damage to the other suspension components or unpredictable handling due to the shift.
My other issue is the click/clunk noise at low speeds turning in the front since day one of install. I know for a FACT it was not there before the Eibach spring and sway bar install. A few shops thought it was the springs, but considering what I've been reading here and elsewhere it's likely the front sway bar, similar to the UP bars that needed an updated bushing.
Has anyone just removed the Eibach front bar completely to rule out the noise? My rear bar still seems to be silent, but like I said the lateral shift is no good either way.
NJturtlePower
Living the Dream, Driving the Future!
CONFIRED (or at least reconfirmed Dolemite) that Eibach WILL be replacing any rear sway bars with proof of shifting / lateral movement.Any news from Eibach about the lateral movement on these rear sway bars? Just sent them a tech message as well....
Had mine installed for about a year now, and sure enough when it went up on the lift yesterday it's shifted to the right about 1+" and seems to cause control arm rubbing with the end link. Should have taken a picture but forgot. In this position it also really crimps the left side lower end link bushing.
Any reports on if those aftermarket lateral locks do any good? Thought I read they did little to nothing to keep things in place.
Considering putting the OEM rear bar back on at this point if there is no revision...not worth damage to the other suspension components or unpredictable handling due to the shift.
My other issue is the click/clunk noise at low speeds turning in the front since day one of install. I know for a FACT it was not there before the Eibach spring and sway bar install. A few shops thought it was the springs, but considering what I've been reading here and elsewhere it's likely the front sway bar, similar to the UP bars that needed an updated bushing.
Has anyone just removed the Eibach front bar completely to rule out the noise? My rear bar still seems to be silent, but like I said the lateral shift is no good either way.
This was the last response I received after submitting pictures of my bar shift, "Please forward your proof of purchase and confirm your shipping address and phone number. The bars in stock should be the updated bars with the bushing rings. I'll have to check with the warehouse to make sure. - Team Eibach"
To be continued....
Attachments
kyledmb
Member
NJturtlePower
Living the Dream, Driving the Future!
Yup, they sent me an upgraded bar for free back in Oct. 2021.
Copy and paste of my response from the other forum....
"So finally got around to installing the V2 Eibach rear sway bar which they sent me free of charge as a warranty replacement of the V1.
As shown, the new V2 bars have welded bushing rings/ribs in place which makes lateral movement impossible and man does it feel better...now running the inside firm setting. So flat and tight!!! Yeah I know...that's what he said!
Hats off to Eibach for making things right, better late than never in my book.
"So, this is common on Tesla model X, but I would guess they all may have this issue because of the torque
of the motors and poor roads.
The clunk is normally the upper control arm, it is easy to replace and you can find new oem parts for your
year on ebay, you may have to look for a while but they pop up. the removal and installation is pretty easy,
3 bolts, but the one bolt comes out toward the battery, so you'll need a carbide sawzaw blade and cut that bolt
out after loosening it, then when reattaching the new one, put it through the other direction so it can be removed
easily.
This is the only hassle with this job, if this sounds too much to do, just pay Tesla it's probably around $400-500 total.
If this doesn't cure it, your next trouble shoot is to replace the 2 lower control arms, 2 bolts each. Same ebay doo dad,
but, i would make sure it's oem and not 'fits' tesla like many state and that it is new or you'll have the same issue.
This will normally stop the 'clunk' and then get a front end wheel alignment done.
cheers,
of the motors and poor roads.
The clunk is normally the upper control arm, it is easy to replace and you can find new oem parts for your
year on ebay, you may have to look for a while but they pop up. the removal and installation is pretty easy,
3 bolts, but the one bolt comes out toward the battery, so you'll need a carbide sawzaw blade and cut that bolt
out after loosening it, then when reattaching the new one, put it through the other direction so it can be removed
easily.
This is the only hassle with this job, if this sounds too much to do, just pay Tesla it's probably around $400-500 total.
If this doesn't cure it, your next trouble shoot is to replace the 2 lower control arms, 2 bolts each. Same ebay doo dad,
but, i would make sure it's oem and not 'fits' tesla like many state and that it is new or you'll have the same issue.
This will normally stop the 'clunk' and then get a front end wheel alignment done.
cheers,
