This is literally one of the first mods I made in the MY7. I haven’t seen anything go haywire yet with the windows but after hearing this stuff several times, I’m thinking of putting the OEM lights back in. Sad though, because I really like the ones that I’ve got. They don’t seem way brighter than the originals…so maybe that’s why I haven’t had any issues?
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Tesla Claims Warranty is Void Due to Aftermarket Puddle Lights
- Thread starter ps134
- Start date
linux-works
Active Member
actually, we're talking about the china govt. bottomless pocketbook.
we should be so lucky to get the gov to invest THAT much in a tech! shades of kennedy and the moon shot, but nothing since then.
its not all sunshine, though; but investment from the govt was a main reason why battery swap is working in china. they didn't even give it a real chance in the US, but in china, its a real thing and not going away any time soon.
AquaY
Member
Everyone has preferences that translate to some bias. I find Munroe to back up his bias with reasons and admit when it is simple preference.
Watching that video of tearing the two companies thermal units down it's hard to see anyone arguing with his conclusions.
We still don't know what " Opening up the charging stations" to other vehicles will entail.
Seems to me idiotic for Tesla to do this without getting something out of it.
I believe one motivation is for government subsidies.
Another is profits from selling electricity. I would think other vehicles will be charged more ( or tesla vehicle owners will get a discount.) but who knows.
More on charging.
I'm not sure the Mach E charges as well as the MY. Either at super charging stations of home.
I would think you've looked into that already.
And I'm curious how the two compare in charging rates and efficiency.
The Mach E certainly gets worse mileage and range.
Trying to compare most similar models the The Mach E AWD with an EPA range of 211 miles 93 combined MPGe while the Tesla MY LR AWD with EPA range estimate of 326 miles gets 121 MPGe combined.
Even the RWD extended which gets estimated EPA estimated range of 300 miles only gets MPGe of 97 combined.
Stats are better than personal preferences to me but as you imply there are lots of things that fall into the decision process.
I have a MY LR and find the ride to be fine. YMMY. I like trucks and sports cars so the MY is very comfortable for me.
My biggest dislike for the MY is the dash. While many love the simple clean look I would like dashboard gauges in front of me in addition to the screen.
That's my preference and I know others have the same one. While others love the way it is.
Having only looked at photos of the Mach E dash I think I like it much more than my MY but all in all I am extremely happy with my Tesla MY.
AquaY
Member
China isn't exactly a country that I'd want the USA to emulate. The genocide, the slave labor, the general lack of human rights, the pollution that makes 1980s LA seem like an oxygen tent ...are all big downsides to me.
I also think I'm better at choosing where and how to spend my money than the government.
AquaY
Member
I changed mine too and they are much better than the originals.
I've not encountered any problems and really feel bad for those people that have had this happen to them.
The 2 things I'm taking out of this thread are
#1) if the door doesn't close right I'm going to open it and lower the windows completely before I try to close them again and
#2) I'm putting the OEM puddle lights in before I take it in for service
I think its when the connector isn't seated well and comes loose or the light fails. Some of the original puddle lights you even had to splice in with an extension.
Also it seemed that when I connected the aftermarket puddle lights, the windows moved up with more force, in this case, Tesla might have a point
Also it seemed that when I connected the aftermarket puddle lights, the windows moved up with more force, in this case, Tesla might have a point
Well, it's a $460 consumer right issue and I don't have time to argue with them
I just want to point out that the OEM puddle lights are useless. They are so dim I didn't even know I had them. The aftermarket ones are significantly brighter. Tesla should just start selling an eom upgrade with logo. I'd buy it.
linux-works
Active Member
they must be really carefully monitoring current draw and perhaps that light load is on the same B+ line.
in a way, its a good thing to watch the current, voltage, etc - so you can flag errors or take alt actions. but being THAT sensitive actually worries me, as lights are noise level in terms of current draw.
no its looking for short to ground not .001 amp differences, those occur just from temperature changes. when you unplug the puddle lights the car thinks the door is shut so it will roll up the window. it has a circuit which slightly lowers window when door opens and closes again after door shuts, to let air out and make it easier to close window. Whats happened here is not related. be interesting to get to the cause though
iamnid
Active Member
It absolutely causes it but it isn't due to the current they are pulling. You can check right now with your own ones if you want. Open your door, pop off the puddle light and, AS SOON AS IT IS DISCONNECTED, the window will pop up to its closed position. Plug the light back in and it goes down the 1/2" so that the door can open and close properly. I had a similar issue to OP when I installed aftermarket puddle lights. Somehow, one of them worked itself loose and was shorting out intermittently, and was causing the window to stay up when opened. Sounds like OP either has a faulty light or a loose connection.
I'd also point out that, when you're installing aftermarket puddle lights, the instructions are very clear that you have to be careful not to close the doors until you are done because the windows go all the way up. When my window started acting weird a day or so after I installed the puddle lights, unlike OP, I did not slam the door to try to close it but recognized it was likely due to the puddle lights and figured out it was loose.
Some other strangeness... when diagnosing this problem, I was pressing on the light and it was illuminating, and the window was going up and down as I did it. I also go the message on the center screen to "close the lid gently" -- so apparently the center console lid is also tied into that circuit somehow.
Wow. I thought this discussion was about the installation of puddle lights affecting the window function, NOT a public opinion thread about industrywide issues, and Elon's character.
Has it been established that the change to any aftermarket puddle light changes the actions of the window electric motor? I recall reading about this issue elsewhere in this forum.
If there is ANY deviation of window motor function after the change to aftermarket puddle lights, Tesla is well within their right to deny coverage.
Has it been established that the change to any aftermarket puddle light changes the actions of the window electric motor? I recall reading about this issue elsewhere in this forum.
If there is ANY deviation of window motor function after the change to aftermarket puddle lights, Tesla is well within their right to deny coverage.
Wow you are exactly right. Jeez what a crazy design. If you unplug the puddle light (or it’s plug somehow fails) then the window not only goes up, it goes up PAST the window frame ! So if you try to close the door like that, you smash the window against the frame at the top front. That’s insane ive never seen that.
now I get why they denied the claim. If your aftermarket puddle lamp failed or wasn’t plugged in right that will smash the glass when you try to close it.
learned something new today. Doubt you will get that covered and if it ever happens to me I’ll be sure to swap out the puddle lamp back to oem before visiting the service center. Also will visually make sure the glass is retracted every time I shut the door just in case. Man it does that for all 4 doors ??
What if oem puddle lamp burns out? Do you smash the glass closing the door ?
op - what was the condition of the aftermarket puddle lamp then?? Was it unplugged or fried ? Where did you buy it ? Are you back to using oem ?
this is a dangerous design. I wonder why the heck they do that. Maybe they want the glass tucked up under the frame for aero ?
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I actually have had decent service so far. I haven't any sc appointments. 3 mobiles. Two were in a couple days.
The longer one was two weeks but I think reasonable. On one of the above appointments they had to align the left rear door handle (an original delivery issue). It took him about an 1 1/2 hour. He had to remove all the inner door stuff and remove the window itself. When he got done all that, he noticed some small scratches on the door handle and decided the whole handle needed replacing. So he put in an order and 2 weeks later came back and repeated the whole thing. He also took a look at the rattle from the driver's seat belt anchor (in the low position) even though it wasn't on his ticket. Pulled the trim and inserted some foam. So far so good.
I don't doubt the horror stories I've heard here. But you can get that from any manufacturer. I had a '78 Chevy Caprice Classic. Pretty much top of line for all of it. Factory ordered so I got just what I wanted. Back then the warranty was 12/12. I was back to the dealer 18 times under that short warranty. The last stsraw was the day that 3 of us were coming back from lunch and I was driving, One of my co-workers got in the back and pulled the arm rest to close the door. The inner part closed but the out part remained open. About a month later I had a nice '79 Datsun 510 wagon that lasted many years without any trouble at all (other than rust as time went on)
But I will say that if I have a front door / window issue I'll put the OEM puddle lights back. I really like the AO ones I got. Bright red. Probably the last of the "T' / dagger puddle lights before Tesla made them stop selling them.
linux-works
Active Member
man, I miss the old days when B+ was B+.
I like CANbus. I work with it a lot and I even designed a small arduino traffic generator system based on CAN.
but come on - some things are so simple they dont need complexity.
I like CANbus. I work with it a lot and I even designed a small arduino traffic generator system based on CAN.
but come on - some things are so simple they dont need complexity.
ElectricIAC
Good-Natured Rascal
linux-works
Active Member
I'd use the word 'fragile'. its what we use in systems when changing a small thing breaks something that should not be related.
a fragile design, unless there is no other choice, is an inferior one. almost an embarassment.
now, to be fair, sometimes you are stretched for can or lin or relay or ttl or pwm (etc) lines and you do what you can. I've worked on gateways that had only so much i/o and you had to make things work. it could be one of those things. but still. tesla... oh tesla. is this how its gonna be, going forward? things like this in the design?
users are going to change things like this out. its blind to assume they wont. dont make fragile designs, vendors!
linux-works
Active Member
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