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Tesla makes electricians see $$

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Its all in how you word it. I got 4 different quotes while i'm waiting for mine (to be wired 3 feet max from my breaker box):

1: Tesla Wall charger: $1750 not including charger
2: "Electric Vehicle Charger": $600 not including charger. Same parts list as above.

3: Nema 14-50 "for a tesla charger": $1200 not including connector
4: Nema 14-50 (no specific given): $150-200
 
Its all in how you word it. I got 4 different quotes while i'm waiting for mine (to be wired 3 feet max from my breaker box):

1: Tesla Wall charger: $1750 not including charger
2: "Electric Vehicle Charger": $600 not including charger. Same parts list as above.

3: Nema 14-50 "for a tesla charger": $1200 not including connector
4: Nema 14-50 (no specific given): $150-200

Maybe there is some kind of licensing fee these electricians pay Tesla. haha
 
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As a follow up, the charger was installed today. Found reputable electrician who didn’t add in any Tesla tax. He ran 6/2 from my indoor panel on a 60 amp breaker. I ended up paying $750 - much better than the $5,000 and $989 prices I was quoted before.​

I'd probably send a copy of the invoice you paid to the guy who quoted $5k. I mean, usually I wouldn't troll a company like that but that kind of difference shows they were looking to rip you off in an outrageous manner.
 
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Its all in how you word it. I got 4 different quotes while i'm waiting for mine (to be wired 3 feet max from my breaker box):

1: Tesla Wall charger: $1750 not including charger
2: "Electric Vehicle Charger": $600 not including charger. Same parts list as above.

3: Nema 14-50 "for a tesla charger": $1200 not including connector
4: Nema 14-50 (no specific given): $150-200

Over here in Austria it was even more drastic:
I asked if I can get a wallbox installed in my garage. The electrician told me that he'd have to ask the utility if that's permitted, I'd probably need to ask my town for a permit and whatnot, and that there's probably no way to legally do this because the net "is not designed to handle this kind of load".

Then I said ok, forget about this, I have a completely unrelated question, and asked whether he could run a line to the other end of the garage and install a CEE outlet.He then asked what size and how many amps. I said 32 amps would be nice, but 16 would suffice too. Guess what, he would have had no qualms installing a CEE32 because lo and behold, my house has like a 64 amp breaker on the roadside distribution box. So the grid can handle a 32 amp consumer on a CEE32 plug no problem, but as soon as you plug in an EV the grid explodes.

So I now charge my Model 3 with 6kW three phases on a CEE16 plug because that's what I can draw from my energy storage without using grid power, and I can go up to 11kW anytime if I want, and everything is fine because as far as my electrician is concerned, it's a large tablesaw or heater or something.

So don't assume dark motives immediately. It may just be that the electrician has no clue.
 
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one thing to watch out for is the exact materials that will be used...
I got a quote of about $600 from one place that I thought was reasonable given the distance required -- it was also lower than some other quotes. However upon digging into it, they had intended to use aluminum #6, which *will* carry 48 amps (but at a higher temperature/voltage drop). I told them I wanted copper, and that raised the price nearly $200.
 
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My electrician said that in order to be recommended by Tesla they are required to send before and after photos of the panel, electric cabling, outlet - basically everything for every Tesla-related job that they do.

Well this says it all! Tesla requires all this crap and the "Tesla recommended" electricians have to do all this nonsense to please Tesla, not us.

At least for people who live where there are a lot of Teslas- look at the "recommended list" to figure out who not to call. I'm sure most "regular" electricians have installed EV's - and Teslas.
 
one thing to watch out for is the exact materials that will be used...
I got a quote of about $600 from one place that I thought was reasonable given the distance required -- it was also lower than some other quotes. However upon digging into it, they had intended to use aluminum #6, which *will* carry 48 amps (but at a higher temperature/voltage drop). I told them I wanted copper, and that raised the price nearly $200.

I’m not sure it makes that big a difference. Code requires the voltage drop to be less than 3 percent. But, i’m thinking the Tesla charger may say “copper connections only”...

Larger aluminum under lugs properly tightened isn’t really an issue...
 
I’m not sure it makes that big a difference. Code requires the voltage drop to be less than 3 percent. But, i’m thinking the Tesla charger may say “copper connections only”...
If you look at an Ampacity chart, 6 gauge Cooper is rated for 55amps at 60C whereas aluminum can do 55amps but at 90C. Given that these draws are usually for hours, you really want boiling hot cables running across your house? I don't.
 
If you look at an Ampacity chart, 6 gauge Cooper is rated for 55amps at 60C whereas aluminum can do 55amps but at 90C. Given that these draws are usually for hours, you really want boiling hot cables running across your house? I don't.

The insulation, connectors, and breakers are all rated for 90c after derating, then there is no issue.

the 90c rating doesn’t mean the wire will be 90c

also, you size the wires based on what you want the temperature rise to be, after factoring Derating factors.


Appropriately sized aluminum is not riskier than appropriately sized copper, at heavier gauges.
 
Anything with Tesla stamped on it is going at a premium right now .. I wouldn't use a "Tesla" recommended electrician .. this isn't rocket science, electricians know how and what to do and the requirements aren't a secret .. also, Tesla sure isn't going to pickup the bill if their "recommendation" burns your house to the ground.
 
Just got my first estimate. $800 using a Siemens 60A breaker in my panel, running what looks to me like decent cable, etc. Not too bad given how far my garage is from my breaker.

I'm still waiting to hear from a couple more electricians.
 
As some here have said, it’s no different than a drop for most electric ovens for the HPWC, or clothes dryer using a 240v NEMA.

It’s greed and dishonesty. It’s called playing on the FUD (Fear Uncertainty and Doubt) and there is zero excuse for it. Not emotional, I’ve been dealing with electricians my whole life and many suffer from the notion that there is some sort of high tech aspect in what they do. It is Jr High ohms law and some tools, and if you can read and write you easily read those NEC ratings. It is not in the same realm as engineering and no, I’m not an engineer.

Not saying not to use a licensed wiring technician. Just don’t listen to the BS.

My apologies to the GOOD electricians on this forum, wherever you are...
Everyone has their own code of ethic’s from which they operate, and I’m glad you’ve differentiated those who would take advantage to the situation. Trouble is the boomer’s of which I’m one are retiring or already retired, leaving the next several generations doing the Electrical work now. Seemingly ethic’s isn’t quite as important now, and it’s just not in the Electrical field either, which is too bad...Retired IBEW/NECA Electrical Contractor.
 
one thing to watch out for is the exact materials that will be used...
I got a quote of about $600 from one place that I thought was reasonable given the distance required -- it was also lower than some other quotes. However upon digging into it, they had intended to use aluminum #6, which *will* carry 48 amps (but at a higher temperature/voltage drop). I told them I wanted copper, and that raised the price nearly $200.
Exactly that’s why there’s a scope of work required for a contract to be signed, so you the homeowner knows what they’re getting. (Licensed Electrical contractors, that is).