Tesla model 3 awd lr only getting 286 miles of range at 100% charge

[AlanSubie4Life]

I think much of it is the BMS. I was in the worried camp over the winter when I thought my 1 year old LR AWD had degradation of about 10% (280mi at 100%). I would schedule departure charging for my daily commute, but never get below 60% battery. Since spring, I’ve been driving down to 20% now and again and charging up to 90%. My BMS is now showing about 300-302 at full charge. I think the BMS believes degradation is occurring when we aren’t using a wider range of cell voltage.

Easy enough to answer. You can measure it. I (and others) have, with a charging event with no battery warming or other overhead.

Winter is a different issue. When your battery is cold it has less available energy, so will show fewer miles. That’s the primary reason for your 20 mile change, I suspect.

I am just hoping you are wrong and I am right.

I have occasionally used near the entire range of charge and it has made little difference (less than 5 rated miles) in the estimate. Usually it makes zero difference, and I suspect the times it has are due to temperature changes, mostly.

 

[JBT66]

I changed my wheels in the car from 18s to 20s and gained 4 miles of range after a drive. From 286 to now displaying 290. This was only the setting, the actual wheels are stock Aeros with MXM4.

 

[Vaillant]

And now he’s back at 271 or whatever...the reset did not help him. It just made the BMS display inaccurate information for a time. They have the CAC estimates for a reason, so if you reset it to its initial condition, it will be incorrect and show the wrong capacity for a period of time.

The CAC can be reset but the BMS will thereafter work to figure out what the actual calculated amp-hour capacity (CAC!) is of the worst brick (again) - they probably don’t want you to go below 20% after a CAC for fear of inadvertently completely discharging (destroying) a weak brick, before the estimates are corrected again (speculation)! So, that worst brick will limit your battery available energy. (96 bricks are in series, so your maximum discharge event energy is limited by your worst set of 46 parallel cells.)

Sure the BMS is estimating, but I believe it is quite accurate. If you don’t believe me (totally reasonable! I’m just a guy on the Internet!) it can be quite easily measured and compared to other users‘ results via charging event durations. It’s not something we need to quibble about - the actual status can be determined relatively accurately if you are curious. (You do have to be careful to make it a valid charging event experiment but it really is not difficult! It is a trivial controlled experiment to set up, especially since it is now no longer winter.)

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Your post showcased an excellent use of parenthetical comments (which I’m obviously a fan of, too).

 

[vsansal]

Here is another model 3 LRRWD that has 100K miles.

Rated range 290. So if you take 310 as the base for when he bought the car, it has around 7% loss. If you take 325 as the new base, he has around 11% loss.

These are also first batch of Tesla model 3s hitting over 100K. So you would think the battery packs would only get better not worse.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

. So you would think the battery packs would only get better not worse.

I would also expect that. All the really bad packs I have heard about were from 2018. But I have not been following along lately. What’s the worst 2020 Model 3 you’ve heard of, and which wheel selection was made for that number? (This is getting slightly off topic for this thread, which is simply a thread explaining that wheel selection on 2020s changes the rated mile constant. But at least we are talking about 2020 Model 3 again.)

 

[Jason_G]

So your car only goes from 50-60% to 90% everyday and calculates capacity based on that. Did you ever try draining it below 10% and then charging it up to 100% to see if it makes any difference on the rated range?

Yes, I have done a couple sub 10%, but I haven't done several back to back... I find it hard to actually plan to get the car <30% in between my regular use.

 

[vsansal]

Yes, I have done a couple sub 10%, but I haven't done several back to back... I find it hard to actually plan to get the car <30% in between my regular use.

I don't think you need to get it under 10% for regular use. 30% should be sufficient. If you can drive 2 days in a row without plugging in and that takes you down to somewhere 20-30%, that would be a good test to see if you reclaim any miles back instead of plugging in every night. So your charges would be 60% capacity instead of 30% or so and should help BMS calibrate better.

 

[vsansal]

What’s the worst 2020 Model 3 you’ve heard of, and which wheel selection was made for that number?

I think the worst I have heard is 275-280 for performance 2020 with 20 inch wheels. And that's about 8% loss. Mine is 2020 performance with 19 inch wheels, 7 months old and around 4500 miles and shows 3% loss. My main difference like I mentioned before is, I don't have home charging so I don't plug it in everyday like recommended which I believe is causing issues with BMS calibration. I usually drive it like a regular car until I hit low 30s or high 20s and then charge. So I am thinking my BMS is more aware of my capacity since I don't constantly plug it in and with my driving habits I usually get 100 miles using 40% capacity. This includes parking the car in my garage without plugging in and sentry mode turned off, then driving normally and using both cabin overheat protection and sentry mode when I park away from home. So I can get about 170 miles or so from 90% down to 25% or so before I plug in and charge it back up to 90%.

 

[andy92782]

10/2018 build AWD LR on 19s here. ~15.8K miles, ~281 max range estimated.

I always plug in at home and charge to 80% overnight. I tried the BMS "reset" trick by upping it it to 90% a couple weeks ago. Doesn't seem to have made a difference.

I started using Teslamate about earlier this year. Here's the past ~6 months of data showing odometer mileage vs. Projected Range. You can see the steep dropoff of accumulated mileage at the beginning of March due to CV19.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I think the worst I have heard is 275-280 for performance 2020 with 20 inch wheels. And that's about 8% loss. Mine is 2020 performance with 19 inch wheels, 7 months old and around 4500 miles and shows 3% loss.

Sounds like things haven't improved much after all then (in terms of consistency amongst battery packs). Sounds like you're on a similar trajectory to my vehicle. I'd expect in the fall you'll be close to 5% loss. And then maybe mostly plateau around 6% loss sometime next year (ignoring temperature effects). My car's available energy has been pretty steady for the last 7-8 months.

 

[scubastevo80]

10/2018 build AWD LR on 19s here. ~15.8K miles, ~281 max range estimated.

I always plug in at home and charge to 80% overnight. I tried the BMS "reset" trick by upping it it to 90% a couple weeks ago. Doesn't seem to have made a difference.

I started using Teslamate about earlier this year. Here's the past ~6 months of data showing odometer mileage vs. Projected Range. You can see the steep dropoff of accumulated mileage at the beginning of March due to CV19.

View attachment 544971

Try discharging to about 20% and recharging up to 90% a few times. That has helped me through spring.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

That has helped me through spring.

I suspect your "loss" of 20 miles was due to temperature, but you would know best, based on where you store your car, dependence of the predicted range on ambient temperature, etc.

I'd expect your extrapolated 100% range (from 90%) would correlate fairly well with ambient temperature.

 

[scubastevo80]

I suspect your "loss" of 20 miles was due to temperature, but you would know best, based on where you store your car, dependence of the predicted range on ambient temperature, etc.

I'd expect your extrapolated 100% range (from 90%) would correlate fairly well with ambient temperature.

Yes - that’s my belief. Just trying to help those with 2019 cars going through their first winter understand that the temperature and charging habits may cause the BMS to read like more degradation is occurring than actual loss.

 

[Toppatop55]

Wow -

I have got you all beat at 255 on a P3D-! At this point, I’m hoping to loose a few more percent so I can get a new battery

DAMN!!

I didn't realize they were selling performance Standard Plus Model 3s. LMAO

 

[McMoo]

Mine was similar over the winter presumably from less cell capacity when cold. Warmer weather had it up to 283. A recent drain to 10% and supercharger session had it to 289. I only use 20% - 30% each day and always charge on 240V at home. I think it could be a BMS calibration issue and not necessarily degradation.

Mine has crept up to 293 miles at 100% when warm. I’ve intentionally set charging to 50% since I’m not driving much and charge to 90% every once in a while.

 

[andy92782]

Update: Historically I've always charged my car to 80% overnight. I tried an experiment where I increased this to ~90% for a couple weeks: No change to affected range so I went back to 80%. Then I decided to unplug the car and just let the battery drain down to ~50% or so (driving it here and there; I don't drive it much these days due to COVID/WFH), followed by charging it back up to 90%. This resulted in gaining back about 5 miles of Projected Range. See screen capture here from Teslamate:

 

[ABCDE]

289 miles with 15k driven, not sure what year bought used, haha, maybe 2018

seems in line with most, its either BMS playing with us, or we should all be getting new battery packs comes warranty time!!!

 

[Vaillant]

289 miles with 15k driven, not sure what year bought used, haha, maybe 2018

seems in line with most, its either BMS playing with us, or we should all be getting new battery packs comes warranty time!!!

You can check in the driver’s side door jam for the metal plate that gives details about your Model 3, including the month and year it was built.

 

[mojoe]

Hmmm my 8/2018 build LR RWD with 30,968m has been creeping up as the summer hits here in CT. I am showing 281 at 90% and estimated 312 at 100%.

I got it used so I have no idea if it ever saw the 325 bump but I’m impressed with the battery so far.

 

[Mr Toad]

Hello all. I have finished reading this entire thread and wished to post my experience and some comments.
First, I have a 11/2018 AWD Model 3 and have always used the 18" wheels with the Aero covers. I live on the very mild Central Coast of Calfornia but have taken the car as far as the other side of Missouri and all over the SW US. I have 18K on it right now. I love my car and have a Model Y as well.

That being said, I am deeply disappointed with the ACTUAL as well as calculated and rated range and how it has dramatically dropped off after about 6 months and I am now consistently down to about 277-281 miles. But far more importantly, if I drive a long trip, having charged to 100 percent and then drive at 240-242 Wh/mile I cannot even come close to that range. Please hear me out. I think we all agree the battery is a 75kWh pack with what started out as about 74.5 kWh of usable energy, as measured by multiple people including Tesla Bjorn.
My car was originally rated at 310 miles EPA which means if driven at the rated consumption of 241 Wh/mile and used 100 percent of the energy one should be able to go at least over 300 miles if not 310. This has nothing to do with driving conditions or speed or temp...those are factors in the Wh/mile efficiency but if one massages the drive to achieve the efficiency of 241 Wh/mile, can we all agree that you should get that range with a full charge?

If someone like myself can do a drive at 241 Wh/mile and in real life only go 260 miles (let alone the already degraded BMS predicted 277 miles I mentioned before), then can we agree the battery pack has degraded significantly or has been reserved or changed by Tesla?
No amount of resetting or recalibrating has ever worked for me and it boils down to real, actual range IF one drives the rated efficiency of 241 Wh/mile, which I do routinely.

With that in mind, I am so sick of people telling me to "just change to percentage and forget about it". I assure you that you would not be forgetting about it either if you were stuck between charging stops in the Nevada desert because your car would not even get remotely close to the already reduced range it predicted even though you were driving at close to 240 Wh/mile. NO, in fact there has been a significant number of Model 3 owners who have experienced abnormally high REAL battery degredation or reservation and no longer have anywhere close to the range they were promised even when driving efficiently, no matter what the conditions.

Fellow owners should not criticize or lambast those who truly complain of this if they understand their cars and have done everything they can to achieve that range when it should be there for them. And Tesla needs to also not just blow us off at the service centers and say the "battery is within parameters" It is not within acceptable parameters when you cannot get even close to the rated range when driving at the rated efficiency required to achieve that range.