TESLA MODEL S stopped working... CAR MAY NOT RESTART

[nemSoma]

You ment measuring high voltage system ? On junktion box right? And if that will be not correct what to change? Cables?
Funny thing is that car doesnt show whats wrong... How you predict DCDC or AC compresor before?

The components I listed are all the HV components (other than the pack itself, of course)
Yes in junction box. It's most likely not the cable that has to be changed, but the component itself.
I had 2 external isolation failures before, one had a bad A/C compressor, other one had a bad drive unit.

 

[Qurix]

The components I listed are all the HV components (other than the pack itself, of course)
Yes in junction box. It's most likely not the cable that has to be changed, but the component itself.
I had 2 external isolation failures before, one had a bad A/C compressor, other one had a bad drive unit.

And how you know with has to be replaced? And Both are not working neither drive unit and AC and car wount start!!! For sure it starts when voltage of the 12v battery is high enough and show errors even drive unit is not in use and ac not in use...

 

[nemSoma]

And how you know with has to be replaced? And Both are not working neither drive unit and AC and car wount start!!! For sure it starts when voltage of the 12v battery is high enough and show errors even drive unit is not in use and ac not in use...

You measure the HV wires in the rear junction box. You measure the wire going to the drive unit, if it has low resistance, it is the faulty component.
You wouldn't be able to run the A/C or drive the car even if you had a battery heater fault. If BMS senses low isolation, it turns off high voltage so none of those will work. Also the AC or drive unit or any of the HV components don't have to be in use to show a low isolation failure.

 

[Qurix]

You measure the HV wires in the rear junction box. You measure the wire going to the drive unit, if it has low resistance, it is the faulty component.
You wouldn't be able to run the A/C or drive the car even if you had a battery heater fault. If BMS senses low isolation, it turns off high voltage so none of those will work. Also the AC or drive unit or any of the HV components don't have to be in use to show a low isolation failure.

Well strange because it was drivable... I can tel you more! At first i was driving and receive error that car may not restart... If i turn form Drive to Neutral error disappear and back agin randomly...

 

[Qurix]

Got the question.... What if i disconnect battery heater at all ? Will system run ? Will change form isolation error in to heater error in case if that was a problem? What if i take battery heater from another vehicle? Do i have to reprogram it ?

 

[Qurix]

Car is running however it shows error while i put in D... When i put in N error gone... SO i believe its problem in leak on HV of drive unit. Does anybody know how to fix it?

 

[Blue Dragon]

I've had this issue several times. First the mobile tech replaced the 12 volt battery, but he thought the 12v was probably actually fine. Fine for awhile and then more error messages. Finally, the car wouldn't start. Trucked over 400 miles to nearest service center. They replaced a high voltage cable. Got the car back and a week later, the error messages start up again and become frequent. Back to the service center and they replace several parts (I don't remember what all). And finally a third trip to the service center (about 5 months later) where they replaced the front drive unit - probably completely separate issue.
Based on my experience, you're kind of screwed not having a service center in the country. Good luck! Maybe you've fixed it, and nothing else will happen.

 

[nemSoma]

I've had this issue several times. First the mobile tech replaced the 12 volt battery, but he thought the 12v was probably actually fine. Fine for awhile and then more error messages. Finally, the car wouldn't start. Trucked over 400 miles to nearest service center. They replaced a high voltage cable. Got the car back and a week later, the error messages start up again and become frequent. Back to the service center and they replace several parts (I don't remember what all). And finally a third trip to the service center (about 5 months later) where they replaced the front drive unit - probably completely separate issue.
Based on my experience, you're kind of screwed not having a service center in the country. Good luck! Maybe you've fixed it, and nothing else will happen.

I don't think the OP's main problem is not having an SC in his country. More like that he probably owns an US salvage in Poland

 

[Qurix]

I don't think the OP's main problem is not having an SC in his country. More like that he probably owns an US salvage in Poland

Probably

 

[Qurix]

I've had this issue several times. First the mobile tech replaced the 12 volt battery, but he thought the 12v was probably actually fine. Fine for awhile and then more error messages. Finally, the car wouldn't start. Trucked over 400 miles to nearest service center. They replaced a high voltage cable. Got the car back and a week later, the error messages start up again and become frequent. Back to the service center and they replace several parts (I don't remember what all). And finally a third trip to the service center (about 5 months later) where they replaced the front drive unit - probably completely separate issue.
Based on my experience, you're kind of screwed not having a service center in the country. Good luck! Maybe you've fixed it, and nothing else will happen.

Well i see that service center is blind and they would replace whole car if they don`t know what is the reason of error In that case im glad that i don`t have to go with my car without warranty and pay for everything they want to change

 

[laurynas]

Well i see that service center is blind and they would replace whole car if they don`t know what is the reason of error In that case im glad that i don`t have to go with my car without warranty and pay for everything they want to change

Have you fixed the issue? I think I have similar problem since yesterday. Car is not charging. If 12V battery is OK, I can start and drive it, but with errors. It also disconnects main battery sometimes and 12V battery is dying then.

I have following errors:
BMS_f151_SW_external_isolation
BMS_f071_SW_SM_TransCon_Not_Met
BMS_u016_FEIM_Delayed_Ctr_Close
GTW_w018_hvacLoadShed
GTW_w017_accLoadShed
GTW_w175_low12VPower
BMS_w035_SW_Isolation
GTW_w176_notEnough12VForDrive
GTW_w177_dead12VBattery
GTW_w174_Replace12VBattery
BMS_w142_SW_Isolation_Degradatio
BMS_w158_SW_Low_Isolation_Wrn

 

[impoz25]

Have you fixed the issue? I think I have similar problem since yesterday. Car is not charging. If 12V battery is OK, I can start and drive it, but with errors. It also disconnects main battery sometimes and 12V battery is dying then.

I have following errors:
BMS_f151_SW_external_isolation
BMS_f071_SW_SM_TransCon_Not_Met
BMS_u016_FEIM_Delayed_Ctr_Close
GTW_w018_hvacLoadShed
GTW_w017_accLoadShed
GTW_w175_low12VPower
BMS_w035_SW_Isolation
GTW_w176_notEnough12VForDrive
GTW_w177_dead12VBattery
GTW_w174_Replace12VBattery
BMS_w142_SW_Isolation_Degradatio
BMS_w158_SW_Low_Isolation_Wrn

Hi! Did you manage to find the cause of the issue?

 

[laurynas]

Hi! Did you manage to find the cause of the issue?

Yes. It was antifreeze leak in drive unit. Replaced the whole unit, cause I had no time for experiments, but I think that it was enough just to clean it, replace bearings and fix the leak.

 

[impoz25]

Yes. It was antifreeze leak in drive unit. Replaced the whole unit, cause I had no time for experiments, but I think that it was enough just to clean it, replace bearings and fix the leak.

thank you for your reply! could you please share how you manage to locate the issue? is there a need to dismantle the unit?

 

[amiral_sub]

if the 12v battery was low, either the 12v battery needs to be replaced, or the dc-dc converter did not charge anymore the 12v battery. Failure of the dc-dc converter is common, but it's easy and cheap to repair. the dc-dc converter converts the 400v from the main HV battery in 12v to charge the 12v battery and to run the AC. If you don't have anymore AC, the DC-DC converter has failed. It should be only a fuse to replace. You can find on this forum informations on how to fix the dcdc converter

 

[impoz25]

my issue is that the car had a constant "Car may not restart" and "Sytems shutting down" error message, but it was still able to drive and charge. But then one day the car's 12V battery died and after recharging it back to 13.5V the error message disappeared. After this I saw the warning "Car may not restart" only once, I also checked the battery heater, AC and other parts, but found nothing criminal. The car shows ISO Resistance at 220kOhm and this is not good. So I'm just wondering what to check next

 

[StarLog]

My friend has a 2013 MS P85, and he had similiar problem.
Cost him ~$2200 to fix, DC to DC converter was defective.

 

[laurynas]

thank you for your reply! could you please share how you manage to locate the issue? is there a need to dismantle the unit?

!!!FIRST DISCONNECT MAIN BATTERY FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY!!!
I am not taking any responsibility if you will die while trying to fix your car.

I opened junction box under rear seat, CHECKED THE VOLTAGE TO BE SURE that main battery is really disconnected. Then disconnected all high voltage components in junction box and measured resistance with ground. Image 2443. Found out that the problem is with rear motor. Resistance was too little.

Then removed orange cover on the inverter and found some liquid on high voltage cable. Image 2447 you can see that bottom bolt is wet.

 

[laurynas]

Problem can be on any high voltage component (cables, motors, AC compressor, heaters, DC/DC converter) The best way is to disconnect them one by one starting from junction box and measure resistance with ground.
@GeorgeCM once told me that "total resistance with all components connected should be more than 1600 kOhm for dual motor cars and more than 1700 kOhm for single motor cars"

 

[TonyT]

Looks like facing my first big problem at 149k miles. Will be checking these items and providing details after. I'm having all the listed errors and symptoms. 12V was reporting bad. Replaced and died again next day. Charged up old battery with trickle and it seems to be holding charge.

Tesla Techs also pointed out I didn't have CNDNano battery configured. My previous battery was also CNDNano so config was wrong, and was previously replaced at SC.

My car also fails to charge until I let it sit for 6 hours or more.. Still looking and trying to confirm symptoms.