Tesla offered me 31K for my CPO 2014 P85+

[analRaviOli]

Hey all,

I purchased my P85+ last November @ 45k miles and right now i have my car at 58K miles. I purchased the car for 48K coming up on one year on November 20th. At the time of sale i could not find any cars that i liked within my price range orher than the Model 3 which i did not want to get. I wanted to look into upgrading into a newer AP car as mine is preAP and pre sensors of any kind. Anywho, i see cars that are in the same year with MORE miles than mine such as an S85 not even a P and they are trying to sell them for 46k or MORE. I dont get how they can offer me THAT much less yet they try to sell a car with less specs for MORE than mine.

Anyone experience this?

 

[anthonyj]

Just sell it private party. Tesla's trade in values are a joke

 

[davidc18]

Private party or carmax or keep enjoying the car.

 

[analRaviOli]

Just sell it private party. Tesla's trade in values are a joke

I am starting to see that.. my mouth dropped when they offered me 31k... I was like, maybe ill break even and just find a S that has at least AP2 or whatnot, but NOPE. I will probably keep this car until near the warranty end, then sell and purchase hopefully another model S that i see attractive. I am hoping for a DL for around 50k.

 

[anthonyj]

I am starting to see that.. my mouth dropped when they offered me 31k... I was like, maybe ill break even and just find a S that has at least AP2 or whatnot, but NOPE. I will probably keep this car until near the warranty end, then sell and purchase hopefully another model S that i see attractive. I am hoping for a DL for around 50k.

They wanted to give me $44k for my CPO 2015 P85D with 27,000 miles lol. Paid $73,200 for it last year. I'm getting offers for 55k private party but I want 58k

 

[HankLloydRight]

2015 Model S | Tesla $46,100

I can't guarantee that Tesla won't strip Ludicrous mode when sold, but it has the P85D badge and the option codes still indicate it has Ludicrous mode.

Good luck!

edit: Trade in your P85+, shell out $15,100 in cash, and get the P85DL. You save on sales taxes, too.

 

[analRaviOli]

2015 Model S | Tesla $46,100

I can't guarantee that Tesla won't strip Ludicrous mode when sold, but it has the P85D badge and the option codes still indicate it has Ludicrous mode.

Good luck!

edit: Trade in your P85+, shell out $15,100 in cash, and get the P85DL. You save on sales taxes, too.

Thanks for the help! right now i am pre Facelift, and if i upgrade its going to be the new front end. I think, if i wait a little longer, hopefully more show up. If i cant get the DL, i'll be satisfied with the Dual Motor without L.

 

[davidc18]

Sounds like you have a good plan. Best of luck!

 

[Dithermaster]

I'll second that Tesla's trade-in offers are laughably low. So is CarMax. I sold my 2013 P85+ privately for about $5K more than what they offered, and both buyer and seller were happy.

 

[Kenz]

Trade in offers at any auto dealer are WHOLESALE PRICES.
The dealer may clean the car, buff it out, make some repairs and advertise it for sale at retail.
The dealer may also provide some warranty to the buyer. These are all costs to the dealer..
This is just how it works. The dealer has to make a profit to take in the car, do repairs, pay their employees and resell it.
Every car looses value when you drive it off the lot. Keeping any car for only one year is a guaranteed way to lose money.
You are always better off selling the car at RETAIL PRICE yourself but most people do not want the hassle or to worry about a bad check or people coming over to their house. You give up some money for the convenience of not having to deal with selling it yourself. Sometimes selling a vehicle is easy and other times it can be a real pain. There are too many CON men out there these days.

 

[kapone]

Selling a car yourself is not rocket science.

You simply ask for a wire transfer or a certified check. Neither of those two can be questioned.

Yes, you do have to make the effort to show the car and potentially let the buyer test drive it (with you in the car), but these efforts are minimal in comparison to the price difference between trade-in and private sale.

If you can't, you can't. If you can, you should.

Hell, I've sold real estate without agents, and that's way more effort/work. But the pay off is worth it. On a $1M house (I'm in the DC area, where $1M buys you a run of the mill 2800 sqft house.) that's anywhere from $30K to $60K in savings.

 

[Olle]

Selling a car yourself is not rocket science.

You simply ask for a wire transfer or a certified check. Neither of those two can be questioned.

Yes, you do have to make the effort to show the car and potentially let the buyer test drive it (with you in the car), but these efforts are minimal in comparison to the price difference between trade-in and private sale.

If you can't, you can't. If you can, you should.

Hell, I've sold real estate without agents, and that's way more effort/work. But the pay off is worth it. On a $1M house (I'm in the DC area, where $1M buys you a run of the mill 2800 sqft house.) that's anywhere from $30K to $60K in savings.

Agreed. Selling a car privately is even easier than selling to a dealer these days IMO. You advertise it on the main sites like cars.com, auto trader and TMC if it's aTesla. Don't put out your phone #. Then you read the incoming email's very carefully; you can tell a con man and and honest person who can afford a Tesla almost with almost 100% accuracy. I've quickly sifted through many con men and "dealers" at this stage. Then before you invite them to your house you google(or duckduckgo or whatever you prefer) them and then read their linkedin profile. Never seen a con man with a solid linkedin including solid connections. Sometimes it turns out you even have mutual acquaintances that you can check with. Now as a third layer of safety, call the bank and see if their check is valid before you give them the keys and the title. This is how I've always done it, found it both time efficient, fun and the buyers were a lot more pleasant than dealers And got more paid than a dealer trade in.

 

[AMPd]

I say keep the car, save up until next year and get the plaid model!

 

[Rogue Synapse]

Then before you invite them to your house you google(or duckduckgo or whatever you prefer) them and then read their linkedin profile. Never seen a con man with a solid linkedin including solid connections. Sometimes it turns out you even have mutual acquaintances that you can check with.

Hmm, I don’t have a Linked In profile and I’m not sure I know anyone who does. But I’m in the medical field where maybe it’s not widely used. I just wouldn’t consider absence of Linked In to be a red flag.

 

[North75]

Selling a car yourself is not rocket science.

You simply ask for a wire transfer or a certified check. Neither of those two can be questioned.

Yes, you do have to make the effort to show the car and potentially let the buyer test drive it (with you in the car), but these efforts are minimal in comparison to the price difference between trade-in and private sale.

If you can't, you can't. If you can, you should.

Hell, I've sold real estate without agents, and that's way more effort/work. But the pay off is worth it. On a $1M house (I'm in the DC area, where $1M buys you a run of the mill 2800 sqft house.) that's anywhere from $30K to $60K in savings.

I disagree, there is a reason why "most" people trade in their cars to the dealer or Carmax. It's called time value of money.

(Having said that the offers that Tesla is offering on Tesla trades might skew that math, but for typical cars I think most have decided it's not worth it. I just don't think Tesla want to purchase used Tesla's for whatever reason)

 

[SSedan]

With a 370mile range current model with a lot of standard equipment going for $80k new what do you really think a 5yo pre-AP car with under 250mile range is worth?

I say this as someone in the same position have a 2014 P85 I would love to upgrade but with increasing range, standard options and falling price resale on mine has tumbled hard and I can understand and admit it.

 

[Kenz]

A new car looses 10% of its value when you drive it off the lot. It goes from new to used.
That is called depreciation and is worst in the first 3 years. Usually anywhere from 10 - 15% a year.
Luxury cars have higher depreciation than economy cars.
After that it might slow a bit and depend more on condition.

 

[analRaviOli]

Thanks everyone! Im on the fence cause i really cannot afford past 50K, i may be able to push to 60 but i need to save a bit more and maybe do one less vacay a year. I tend to do a few. Anyways, either a used P90 with AP2.5 or mayve a new M3P. Those are what is on my table right now. Hell, if i can get a Model X with a P90 maybe a 2017 model i may do that as i see prices are falling.. slowly...

 

[Dithermaster]

I got an extra layer of confidence in the buyer of my car - a family member they brought to check out the car has been on this forum longer than me and had many insightful posts. Instantly built trust not only that they were not a con artist, but knew exactly what they were buying.

In the past I've met buyers at my bank and deposited their cashier's check, but recently a friend told me that even cashier's checks are being forged now. He recommended instead meeting at their bank and watching them draw the cashier's check out of their account. The other nice thing about banks is they have lots of cameras, which protects both parties.

 

[Olle]

Hmm, I don’t have a Linked In profile and I’m not sure I know anyone who does. But I’m in the medical field where maybe it’s not widely used. I just wouldn’t consider absence of Linked In to be a red flag.

You're probably right. The ones I dealt with lately had linkedin, could have been a coincidence. What are some other ways to look up a buyer or seller?