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The value of PPF (Paint Protection Film)

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If you are still not sure about the investment in a PPF wrap for your MS, here are couple of pictures showing the value of the product. For me, I had my MS wrapped in Xpel. I got too close to a stucco wall and rubbed it. After removing the film, I noticed that the film absorbed most of the scratch. The 2nd picture is the after.

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I had a huge scuff in the same area from what appeared to be a bumped of another car. I was livid, but thankfully I had the Xpel Ultimate already applied so I was able to literally scrape it off with my fingernail.

Unfortunately for me the rough surface of the stucco made deep gouges into the PPF. I'm confident the PPF would perform even better against a smooth surface.
 
Ordered my S today and I was thinking about something like this. How much does it cost? From your experience I can see it is a good investment

First, congratulations on your recent MS order...you made a very good decision. The cost of the wrap will depend on how much of the MS you want to wrap. For me, I had the whole vehicle wrapped which easily approached the mid four figures. If you wrap less, your cost will be less. Make sure you do your research and go with a reputable installer because this material does require skill and patience. You can purchase kits. Here's a link to kits purchased from Xpel. This should give you an idea of cost of material...just factor in the labor.
 
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Thanks for posting. I have a new MS on the way and have been debating on PPF. My current MS has a bunch of nasty rock chips in the hood, some all the way down to the aluminum. Based on that, I thought PPF would be a good investment this time.

I hear the PPF is excellent protection for rock chips. For me, the 2nd day after delivery, I had the PPF installed. So my MS had limited road time without the PPF. I coordinated my PPF install with delivery to minimize the time it was unprotected.
 
I hear the PPF is excellent protection for rock chips. For me, the 2nd day after delivery, I had the PPF installed. So my MS had limited road time without the PPF. I coordinated my PPF install with delivery to minimize the time it was unprotected.
And not just rock chips. I've had a couple of paint spots from other cars. Some tar and bug remover and they came right off.
 
I've already posted this elsewhere on this forum, but I was so impressed, I feel I must share it again.

I drive over a narrow bridge every now and then. Not too long ago, a pickup decided we would both fit, and drove up on the bridge, and I dodged. The passenger mirror whanged the bridge support so hard that the mirror flipped back, hard enough to break the mirror on the passenger door window - actually left a mark on it.

I pulled over at the next turnout. Where the bridge hit was partly absorbed by the chrome base, which sits out from the painted top cover, but the cover had a good four inch by one inch scrape along the paint. I was sick. Then I remembered the PPF. I should have taken pictures, but when I pulled the 3M off (NOT Xpel), there was just the faintest mark, which buffed out in about two seconds.

I have replaced the plastic, hardly believing that it does this well, but seeing is believing. I also close the mirrors now when I cross the bridge.
 
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I've already posted this elsewhere on this forum, but I was so impressed, I feel I must share it again.

I drive over a narrow bridge every now and then. Not too long ago, a pickup decided we would both fit, and drove up on the bridge, and I dodged. The passenger mirror whanged the bridge support so hard that the mirror flipped back, hard enough to break the mirror on the passenger door window - actually left a mark on it.

I pulled over at the next turnout. Where the bridge hit was partly absorbed by the chrome base, which sits out from the painted top cover, but the cover had a good four inch by one inch scrape along the paint. I was sick. Then I remembered the PPF. I should have taken pictures, but when I pulled the 3M off (NOT Xpel), there was just the faintest mark, which buffed out in about two seconds.

I have replaced the plastic, hardly believing that it does this well, but seeing is believing. I also close the mirrors now when I cross the bridge.
Which 3M product do you have on the car? Do you have something on top of that?
 
I have been reading so much about PPF the last few weeks my head is spinning. Expel Ultimate, Suntek, Clearguard Nano, Opti Coat Plus/Pro, Cquartz Finest, Modesta....OMG (that's not a product, btw, just my exasperation showing).

I understand the value of a film and how it can protect the car from rock chips, door dings, etc. but when people also get their car film coated with Opti Coat or one of the other top coatings...I get confused. Is that really necessary? Or is it b/c these folks want a higher gloss factor. I thought the film was supposed to also make the car easier to clean...??

Guess I'm not so concerned about seeing the lines from the edges of the wrap where it cannot be tucked under...it wouldn't bother me when I'm driving. But what I would be concerned about is whether or not the car's paint color will wear evenly over time if the entire car is not wrapped. For example, if I choose only to wrap the front end of the car, hood, fenders, and doors...will the rear quarter panel look different when the film is eventually removed? And it does need to be removed at some point, right?

My X will be midnight silver so I'm not too concerned about yellowing...

As far as maintenance goes, although I'd love to baby the car and hand wash it every week...we've got 3 kids under 10 so that idea is pretty much out the window. I'm more of a drive-through car wash gal these days (brushless, of course). Is this too harsh for the PPF and coating to handle? Will it make it wear down faster?
 
I have been reading so much about PPF the last few weeks my head is spinning. Expel Ultimate, Suntek, Clearguard Nano, Opti Coat Plus/Pro, Cquartz Finest, Modesta....OMG (that's not a product, btw, just my exasperation showing).

I understand the value of a film and how it can protect the car from rock chips, door dings, etc. but when people also get their car film coated with Opti Coat or one of the other top coatings...I get confused. Is that really necessary? Or is it b/c these folks want a higher gloss factor. I thought the film was supposed to also make the car easier to clean...??
1. Coatings like Opti Coat are supposed to make the car easier to clean. They don't really do any protection.
2. PPF will protect the car against rubs, most rock chips, etc.
3. Yellowing happens if you used petroleum distillates (this means car wax and some cleaners) on them. Clean them properly and they won't yellow. The older films like 3M got a bad rep because it wasn't well known that wax yellowed.
4. Car wash brushes will scratch the PPF just like they will scratch the paint. However, the underlying paint will be protected.
5. Most of the saves that PPF has done to my car have been not on the hood and front fenders (the rear bumper and quarter panels seem to be popular for other cars to rub against). I had every painted surface covered. Once you have done the front and doors, there is not that much left.
 
I have been reading so much about PPF the last few weeks my head is spinning. Expel Ultimate, Suntek, Clearguard Nano, Opti Coat Plus/Pro, Cquartz Finest, Modesta....OMG (that's not a product, btw, just my exasperation showing).

As far as maintenance goes, although I'd love to baby the car and hand wash it every week...we've got 3 kids under 10 so that idea is pretty much out the window. I'm more of a drive-through car wash gal these days (brushless, of course). Is this too harsh for the PPF and coating to handle? Will it make it wear down faster?

I had Opti Coat Pro Plus and Scotchguard 3m wrap applied to my new Model S. It's an awesome combination! The recommendation from OptiCoat and my installer is hand wash with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine and Opti- Seal. My installer actually came to my house and walked me through the hand wash process which was very easy and took about 30 minutes. Your basically washing the vehicle with a sponge panel by panel and drying with waffle weave microfiber cloth. I was also leary about handwashing every week, but when you factor in the time it takes you to go to and through a car wash, 30 minutes at home is really not bad at all. The coatings bring out the glossiness in the paint and its amazing how good the car looks afterwards.
 
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If you are still not sure about the investment in a PPF wrap for your MS, here are couple of pictures showing the value of the product. For me, I had my MS wrapped in Xpel. I got too close to a stucco wall and rubbed it. After removing the film, I noticed that the film absorbed most of the scratch. The 2nd picture is the after.

View attachment 182508 View attachment 182509

Glad the XPEL saved your paint! We've been seeing a bit more of this lately, and we're happy to see the performance hold up. If I may ask, who was your installer?

Your film isn't self healing? I know that nanoguard is self healing with a little heat.

The top layer of the film is the self-healing part...after the top coat of the film is penetrated, the film can no longer self-heal. The self-healing properties are more for fine scratches, swirl marks, light etching on the film. With a little heat from the sun, or a heatgun, the fine scratches, swirl marks, etc will slowly fade.
 
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So happy to hear these stories for my peace of mind! My Model S is receiving Xpel and Opticoat as I write this. I basically view the Xpel as the paint "armor" and the Opticoat as the "permanent wax." I like the idea of knowing that washing it will be a short and easy process!
 
Glad the XPEL saved your paint! We've been seeing a bit more of this lately, and we're happy to see the performance hold up. If I may ask, who was your installer?



The top layer of the film is the self-healing part...after the top coat of the film is penetrated, the film can no longer self-heal. The self-healing properties are more for fine scratches, swirl marks, light etching on the film. With a little heat from the sun, or a heatgun, the fine scratches, swirl marks, etc will slowly fade.
Is the car easier to clean with the Xpel by itself? Versus no film at all? I've heard some people do Cquartz Finest on top of the paint (no film) and that's supposed to protect from scratches and chips as well??

What are these coatings made of/what are they doing to the surface? I was always curious if they really bond to the film or if they were meant to bond to the painted surface. Is it really like glass coating and has to be buffed off mechanically? Is this true of Modesta too?

Was also considering not doing anything and if/when it gets really bad looking, just install a vinyl wrap and have fun with some new color(s). Surely that option is more cost effective. I'm already planning on plasti-dipping my rims...and contemplating a chrome delete.
 
I have had my Xpel full body wrap on my Model S since new. Let me tell you that although the benefit of rock chip and paint protection was important I soon found one other huge benefit. The thing that became apparent is that the car is so much easier to clean. I dust it off with a dust mop (you know the California Car Covers wooden handle mop with the red cloth mop) and then spritz each panel with a gloss detailer. Then simply wipe the panel with a micro fibre towel folded in quarters. Start at the top and work down to ground level. Use one quarter of the micro fibre for wipe down and then fold and expose a clean surface and perhaps spray again and do a final wipe. The surface looks super and you do not scratch the Xpel one little bit.

Now if there is mud, road salt, and dry caked on dirt, I would rinse the car off first with a foaming spray gun. I use the above method with fine dust and pollen. I have been using Zaino Brothers Glosser on the Model S over the Xpel. Works well.
 
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I have had my Xpel full body wrap on my Model S since new. Let me tell you that although the benefit of rock chip and paint protection was important I soon found one other huge benefit. The thing that became apparent is that the car is so much easier to clean. I dust it off with a dust mop (you know the California Car Covers wooden handle mop with the red cloth mop) and then spritz each panel with a gloss detailer. Then simply wipe the panel with a micro fibre towel folded in quarters. Start at the top and work down to ground level. Use one quarter of the micro fibre for wipe down and then fold and expose a clean surface and perhaps spray again and do a final wipe. The surface looks super and you do not scratch the Xpel one little bit.

Now if there is mud, road salt, and dry caked on dirt, I would rinse the car off first with a foaming spray gun. I use the above method with fine dust and pollen. I have been using Zaino Brothers Glosser on the Model S over the Xpel. Works well.
So you have no top coating on top of the Xpel...and are happy with the gloss factor it leaves you with? Seems like many want xtra gloss/shine and those coatings help with that?

Would you mind uploading a pic of your car? I've ordered the same color!
Can you see the edge lines of the film or did they wrap them under everywhere possible? I've only seen Xpel on a black X, and Suntek on a midnight silver--and the edges were very apparent. Not really sure how much this will bother me over time. It's the first scratch that hurts the most, then you just get numb...

So you do not use automatic car washes at all? If you did, it wouldn't damage the Xpel would it? I used Zaino Bros on my Integra, works like magic.