Thoughts on EAP for the 3

[kychungkevin]

My wife have to drive from NJ home to NYC every workday as her job require. The 70 minute to once in a while 120 minute + stop and go one-way commute in her old Lexus CT cause her back pain and nerve pain also very tired and stressful.
So last year we switch her car to Hyundai Sonata Hybrid with full speed smart cruise control (also considered Audi A3 etron but too expensive). It doesn't steer for her but follow car in traffic and hold the car when traffic stop. She had much less pain since then and she love the feature a lot.
Twice I took the car to Toronto and 90% of the 9 hour drive I let the cruise take control; I just do the steering. Before I felt very tired after driving 7hr or so especially at night. With the Sonata I can go all the way. Part of the reason is I don't have to focus on the traffic as much as I used to; I just need to focus the lane; plus my feet are in resting position (rest near to pedal in case I need to take over) most of the time.
With EAP optioned Model 3 coming my wife commute should be even more relaxing. IMO EAP or smart cruise are the features you don't think you need until you experienced it.

 

[TaoJones]

I'm having the hardest time deciding if EAP is worth it for me. I drive about 60 miles total daily on a highway for my work commute, but the highway has pretty bad lane markings for most of the part I drive on (The 101 in California, between Santa Barbara and Ventura). I am just not sure if AP2 can handle it, wonder if they'll let me test drive an S for the commute to see how well it works (I live right next to a Tesla store/service center)?

Any chance Tesla will release a 1 month trial or something for AP on the 3? I don't want to buy something before knowing if it will work for me or not!

Short answer: get AP for TACC alone. AS is getting better but still has issues.

Specifically with regard to your commute, which I did in reverse (Ventura Harbor to Goleta) for years: That commute is one of the most dangerous in part because half of it can be done at 90, and the other half at 9.

TACC will be helpful throughout the vast majority of that drive. Where AS will fall short and to some extent TACC likewise will be during the brief stretches of changing elevation during curves. For example, that southbound stretch through Montecito.

On the other hand, that’s a section wherein you’d be more vigilant anyway.

All that stop and go through SB proper and the long straightish stretches adjacent the ocean? AP will excel for those.

Don’t trust it and watch it like a hawk for the first few months - you’ll see pretty quick those cases to which I refer.

Again, TACC is worth the price of the car and then some.

There is one use case at very low speed that’s a problem with AP2 and not AP1. Engaging TACC and then AS can cancel TACC which takes out the braking (and spacing) inherent w/TACC. So if you buy a CPO AP1 car instead of a 3, that’s not an issue.

On the other hand, there’s one use case in which AP2 does better than AP1 - lanekeeping in very poor visibility with less than perfectly marked lanes.

So... pick yer poison. If you have a garage and can start each day fully-charged, I’d get the 3. If you plan to drive a *lot*, then consider a CPO AP1 car for under $50K for the next 2-3 years while the dust settles. There will be some RWD AP1 cars coming off lease that as CPOs will have 55,000 miles left under warranty in that price range. Supercharging included is worth $6-$10K over 3 years in CA if you drive a lot. Especially with a high-speed commute with elevation.

Yeah. Get the EAP if you get a 3. You won’t regret it.

 

[smythey]

I don’t plan to get EAP on my 3; it’s simply too expensive and not something that’s essential. I plan to get the standard battery, so another £4.5k makes a big difference to the overall cost.

I’ve had the chance to spend a few days with both AP1 & AP2 cars, and came away fairly unimpressed with the lane keeping; especially with AP2.

To be honest, I’m surprised they didn’t adjust the price of EAP across the board when they starting delivering 3’s. 3 owners will be more price sensitive than S/X owners, and I think there will be a decent chunk who simply won’t be able to justify dropping $5k on convenience features.
I’m hopeful they’ll reduce the price between now and when I get my car (early 2019 - sob), but the longer they leave it, the more they’ll piss off folk who have already payed full whack.

 

[SlicedBr3ad]

It's all about expectations. I've not driven ap1 teslas, but I did drive ap2 teslas and other cars that have dynamic cruise control and lane keep assist. After doing this, eap is the reason I'm getting m3. If you shop around, tesla is the only car for $40k which Keeps lanes properly. I do hope it gets better as well (recognise street signs, etc).

 

[CheeseJam]

Short answer: get AP for TACC alone. AS is getting better but still has issues.

Specifically with regard to your commute, which I did in reverse (Ventura Harbor to Goleta) for years: That commute is one of the most dangerous in part because half of it can be done at 90, and the other half at 9.

TACC will be helpful throughout the vast majority of that drive. Where AS will fall short and to some extent TACC likewise will be during the brief stretches of changing elevation during curves. For example, that southbound stretch through Montecito.

On the other hand, that’s a section wherein you’d be more vigilant anyway.

All that stop and go through SB proper and the long straightish stretches adjacent the ocean? AP will excel for those.

Don’t trust it and watch it like a hawk for the first few months - you’ll see pretty quick those cases to which I refer.

Again, TACC is worth the price of the car and then some.

There is one use case at very low speed that’s a problem with AP2 and not AP1. Engaging TACC and then AS can cancel TACC which takes out the braking (and spacing) inherent w/TACC. So if you buy a CPO AP1 car instead of a 3, that’s not an issue.

On the other hand, there’s one use case in which AP2 does better than AP1 - lanekeeping in very poor visibility with less than perfectly marked lanes.

So... pick yer poison. If you have a garage and can start each day fully-charged, I’d get the 3. If you plan to drive a *lot*, then consider a CPO AP1 car for under $50K for the next 2-3 years while the dust settles. There will be some RWD AP1 cars coming off lease that as CPOs will have 55,000 miles left under warranty in that price range. Supercharging included is worth $6-$10K over 3 years in CA if you drive a lot. Especially with a high-speed commute with elevation.

Yeah. Get the EAP if you get a 3. You won’t regret it.

Appreciate the input from someone that is familiar with my commute!

I think I am definitely leaning towards EAP now, even though it is slightly stretching my budget.