Time to change or not?

[Atari2600]

I would evaluate again before 8 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first. The battery and drive unit are the expensive parts.

Your vehicle was also sold as EAP + FSD so you have the old FSD description where the car can drive with no input from the person in the driver seat. At least hold out for the FSD lawsuit/settlement or upgraded self cleaning anti-glare cameras.

 

[mrbulk]

If running out of warranty is your primary concern, isn't there an extended warranty you could buy? Plus as mentioned above, your powertrain warranty (comprised usually of the most costly parts to fix) is still good, right?

 

[Knightshade]

If running out of warranty is your primary concern, isn't there an extended warranty you could buy? Plus as mentioned above, your powertrain warranty (comprised usually of the most costly parts to fix) is still good, right?

There is... Only one I know of that is offered for Model 3 is below:

X-Care - Xcelerate Auto


You can use code MJC4JI9375 to get $100 off the price too

 

[CharleyBC]

Keep it.

Note that you listed only upsides and uncertainties--no downsides. In other words, pluses and kinda neutrals. No negatives.

And as for resale, if you truly bought with the long run in mind, then (for me, at least) resale isn't a big factor. You're planning to get all the value out of the car you can until it's old and decrepit.

 

[Gizmo35]

I wouldnt consider changing cars for the exact same car unless there was significant technology change with massive improvements and benefits. The small cosmetic stuff, not worth it for me to lose all that money.

 

[Gize]

If you are asking this question you must have the money to do it. So I say do it.. But not yet! You buying a newer model helps Tesla and it's cause. You will be introducing your old car to someone that possibly can't afford a new one, which will add a new Tesla family member. You will help Tesla with another new car sold and likely get another gas car off the roads.

Having said that, if it were me, I wouldn't do it even if I had the cash, until battery day. Make a decision off the information you hear then. Specifically, will new battery tech be coming to the model 3 anytime soon.

 

[jpfive]

If you are asking this question you must have the money to do it. So I say do it.. But not yet! You buying a newer model helps Tesla and it's cause. You will be introducing your old car to someone that possibly can't afford a new one, which will add a new Tesla family member. You will help Tesla with another new car sold and likely get another gas car off the roads.

Having said that, if it were me, I wouldn't do it even if I had the cash, until battery day. Make a decision off the information you hear then. Specifically, will new battery tech be coming to the model 3 anytime soon.

This. Let's definitely see what battery day brings before making a plan.

 

[twistedskipper]

A new battery will still be much less than a new Tesla.

Only reason for a new car is the old one is worn out and can’t be made cosmetically/functionally/reliably sound, or it no longer meets functional requirements, or the new one has must-have new features. Not because the warranty ran out.

 

[TLLMRRJ]

The great thing about an EV is that performance isn't going to drop off.

I have read the exact opposite, that the batteries and the motors become weaker with mileage and age.

 

[puckpurnell]

Keep it. You’ll be able to get the Model Y when the 3 hits 100,000...and by then you’ll probably get an even better Y.

 

[SigNC]

keep it. I'd at least keep it until they have a product with significantly better batteries. Plus, as noted your drive train warranty is to 120k.

 

[ArcticStation]

Keep it. I have a July 2018 build and other than problems that surfaced and were corrected immediately after delivery, the car has been perfect. If you do plan to upgrade to a Y, wait a while until the early manufacturing glitches have been worked out. And no matter what you buy, wait until issues related to Covid-19 are resolved. The last thing I would want is a car built in a factory chock full of temporary workarounds and kludges designed to protect employees from the virus.

 

[Twiglett]

Eh?

battery has an 8yr, 120k mile, 70% capacity warranty

I have read the exact opposite, that the batteries and the motors become weaker with mileage and age.

I'd love to see exactly where you read that.
Especially with high mileage Tesla's out there showing the same performance as new - other than range.
Even then, range loss with Tesla compared to other EV is really good as well - based on real data, not "predictions" from Top Gear

 

[ucmndd]

battery has an 8yr, 120k mile, 70% capacity warranty

Yes, I understand that.

I originally thought the person I was responding to was suggesting that OP's current car would have a "much longer" battery/drive unit warranty than a hypothetical new Model 3/Y. I later understood that they just meant there is substantial balance left on the current car.

 

[TLLMRRJ]

battery has an 8yr, 120k mile, 70% capacity warranty

Not all do. SR's are 100K miles.

 

[Twiglett]

Not all do. SR's are 100K miles.

true - but mine is a LR

I really appreciate everyone's comments. I was leaning toward hanging on to it because its been such a brilliant car.
But its always good to get ideas from a a bunch of folks who don't have an attachment - sad, but the car is named and is part of the family.

 

[joebruin77]

One other factor to consider is sales tax. I see you are in Austin, TX. I believe the sales tax on a new car in TX is 6.25%. If your new Tesla cost $45,000 you would be paying nearly $3K in sales tax . If you keep the original car, you can put your $3K towards an extended warranty or pay for non-warranty repairs out of pocket. My vote would be to keep it.

 

[TLLMRRJ]

true - but mine is a LR

I knew that already, which is why I said SR’s, not Twiglett’s.

 

[TLLMRRJ]

One other factor to consider is sales tax. I see you are in Austin, TX. I believe the sales tax on a new car in TX is 6.25%. If your new Tesla cost $45,000 you would be paying nearly $3K in sales tax . If you keep the original car, you can put your $3K towards an extended warranty or pay for non-warranty repairs out of pocket. My vote would be to keep it.

Unless you trade it in. Then the value of the trade in is discounted from the value of the new car for sales tax purposes.