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Top Speed of M3 Perfomance vs Performance plus

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imsyb

New Member
May 20, 2019
4
1
UK
What is the top speed for the P- model?
As I understand when I select the Standard Range plus - it shows 140mph. But when I select the Performance model (without selecting the additional "Performance Upgrade" - The topspeed goes up to 162mph.

So I am wondering why the "Performance Upgrade" package says that it will "Increased top speed from 145mph to 162mph"??

Am I missing something?
 
I think you Mean kph and not mph,they only unlock 162kph after they put on the spoiler so that might be the issue
Not kph, that's only 100mph
What is the top speed for the P- model?
As I understand when I select the Standard Range plus - it shows 140mph. But when I select the Performance model (without selecting the additional "Performance Upgrade" - The topspeed goes up to 162mph.

So I am wondering why the "Performance Upgrade" package says that it will "Increased top speed from 145mph to 162mph"??

Am I missing something?
The P- has a top speed of 145mph, the P+ has the 162mph top speed. 'Up to 162mph' means that it can be specced to go 162mph, with the performance upgrade.
 
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I’m hoping insurers realise there is a difference. The model I’ve ordered is the P- as I couldn’t order the LR AWD I originally wanted. But it’s still called M3 Performance even without the performance upgrade pack so insurers may assume they are one and the same and apply similar rates.
 
I’m hoping insurers realise there is a difference. The model I’ve ordered is the P- as I couldn’t order the LR AWD I originally wanted. But it’s still called M3 Performance even without the performance upgrade pack so insurers may assume they are one and the same and apply similar rates.
I'm not sure if they will or not! So far insurance still only seems to be from a few companies (and LV can't quote online despite all their 'specialist EV insurance' chat!).

Direct Line wanted £917 (w/£350 excess) for a LR AWD, full NCB, 10k miles, clean licence! When I went back and changed the model it was £200 extra for P (there was no P- or P+ option, just P), £237 less for SR+.
 
I’m hoping insurers realise there is a difference. The model I’ve ordered is the P- as I couldn’t order the LR AWD I originally wanted. But it’s still called M3 Performance even without the performance upgrade pack so insurers may assume they are one and the same and apply similar rates.

The p- has poorer tyres and brakes so should attract a higher premium.
Top speed is 70mph in the UK ;-)
 
The p- has poorer tyres and brakes so should attract a higher premium.
Top speed is 70mph in the UK ;-)

I’m aware of the speed limit :D And actually I didn’t want the P version at all as I don’t need the speed. Only ordered it as the LR AWD version disappeared as I was getting the courage up to place my order. So P- was my only option for AWD and improved range other than waiting a while to see if the LR AWD reappeared, which would require patience. I’m not good with patience.
 
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The p- has poorer tyres and brakes so should attract a higher premium.
Top speed is 70mph in the UK ;-)

Performance summer tyres won't be so great in adverse winter conditions when you are more likely to be having your grip related accident. I'd rather be on 18" with winter tyres on a wet miserable January morning. In reality insurers will probably label all P cars the same unless statistically they see more claims with one version over the other.
 
Performance summer tyres won't be so great in adverse winter conditions when you are more likely to be having your grip related accident. I'd rather be on 18" with winter tyres on a wet miserable January morning. In reality insurers will probably label all P cars the same unless statistically they see more claims with one version over the other.

Winter tyres perform better on the few winter days we have irrespective of diameter of the rims.
The narrower contact patch on summers combined with the reduced braking efficiency should give greater cause for for concern. That said I spent ages with admiral's underwriter attempting to explain fuel injectors being enablers to the already acceptable 25% power increase!
 
It’s a shame they are called winter tyres - maybe cold weather tyres (although everyone has their own definition of cold). Their grip is largely temperature related. ‘Winter’ tyres would probably perform better through late autumn to early spring here in UK, especially on early mornings with frost.

Never bothered before but I’m tempted in getting a set and will probably run them Nov through to March.
 
The narrower contact patch on summers combined with the reduced braking efficiency should give greater cause for for concern.

All the stock M3 wheel options have the same tyre width, just different sidewall profiles i.e. 235/45 18" 235/40 19" and 235/35 20"
For UK roads I'd much rather have the 45 profile on 18" for a more compliant ride. Can always fit some stickier tyres than the stock ones for summer (e.g. PS4s are available in 235/45/18) and there are far more winter tyre options in 18" than 20".

Only real advantage I see for the 20" package is the bigger brakes and lower ride IF you are doing track days as the stock brakes will probably fade. For road use the performance package is just going to be harsher, noisier and more prone to damage.
 
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It’s a shame they are called winter tyres - maybe cold weather tyres (although everyone has their own definition of cold). Their grip is largely temperature related. ‘Winter’ tyres would probably perform better through late autumn to early spring here in UK, especially on early mornings with frost.

Never bothered before but I’m tempted in getting a set and will probably run them Nov through to March.

IME winter tyres are better throughout most of our miserable cold winter days (especially when wet) and infinitely better when there is a bit of snow around.
 
I too have the P- on order and am hoping its 3.2, but the reality is that some of that time is most likely attributed to the better grip from the 20 inch low profile tyres.

Time will tell, but I think on 18" aero's its likely to be closer to 3.5s

Don't over-think it! The road surface and weather conditions will have a far bigger influence on grip level.

If you are not happy with the ultimate grip level of the stock 18" tyres, just fit a set of performance tyres in the same size. For example the Michelin PS4 that comes with the 20" wheels is also available in the 18" size.

You might also be surprised to learn that ultra-low profile tyres are actually compromised in ultimate grip/performance and exist only for the "look". I would not be at all surprised to find that the 18s are superior on the same tyre (i.e. Michelin PS4) with the slightly more compliant profile. For a start you would be able to run a lower pressure in the 18s because of the larger air volume = more grip and more forgiving on the limit.

I have a professional motorsport engineering background (F1, BTCC) and have had this discussion many times with motorsport tyre designers (from Michelin, Bridgestone, Dunlop etc). Even done back-to-back track tests in BTCC with 18 v 19" wheels (although that was a long time ago, but the physics hasn't changed!).

From my own experience I was very happy to get the option of ordering a P-
I was actually dreading having to live with the 20" performance package for hooning around uk country backroads. The upgraded brakes would have been nice, but outside of track use I doubt they will be a big deal - unless the stock brakes are really that woeful, which I doubt.

To put grip levels in context, my barge of a Model X on standard 20" rims (45 profile tyres, same as 18" M3) with Michelin PS4 SUVs has more grip than you could ever safely use on a public road. Nothing has managed to drive away from it on our local backroads yet. So a P- Model 3 should be plenty awesome enough for any public use and even if a P+ did have more grip, you wouldn't be able to utilise it outside of a track environment anyway.
 
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It’s a shame they are called winter tyres - maybe cold weather tyres (although everyone has their own definition of cold). Their grip is largely temperature related. ‘Winter’ tyres would probably perform better through late autumn to early spring here in UK, especially on early mornings with frost.

I'm in a rural location, so fair chance that the "last mile" (or two!) isn't gritted.

But either way, I'm 100% with you that its just better in Winter. I can drive on Snow, or Ice, on Summer tyres ... we all used to do that 30 years ago ... but where Winter tyres really score is when you aren't expecting it - the cold, wet, corner is a bit sharper than expected; someone washed their car earlier and there is now a patch of black ice ... Winter tyres just give you more margin. Even a minor "bent it" is a monumental PITA to get sorted out with Insurance, Body Shop, driving an alternative car ... I'd prefer to avoid that.

And have the extra safety too - for me that is: Winter tyres fitted to all family members' cars.

For road use the performance package is just going to be harsher, noisier and more prone to damage.

Ah! The nostalgia of the XR3 and the awesome job Turbo Technics did to it - "Turbo Boost" switch on the dash too, just like Knight Rider (v. important at the age I was back then, but fairly sure it didn't impress a single girl, which cannot possibly have matched my expectation - back then!). XR3 cooking-version was 95-ish BPH, Turbo Technics was 130 and Knight Rider Mode 150 :)

But, yeah, grown out of Noisy, High Revving, Harsh Ride a looong time ago. I much prefer my new EV-driving-style : corner at sensible & safe speed and then just "punch it" on the straight :)