Trunk Latch

[bolosky]

I've noticed that the trunk switch nearly always takes three tries to open the trunk. This happens both with the remote and with the button inside the car. It sounds to me like it's trying the left latch, then the right one then both.

Does this happen to others, or is it just me? If it is normal, does anyone have any idea why it's designed this way?

It's no big deal, but I'm curious.

 

[Doug_G]

My trunk pops from a single press of the interior button. It takes two presses on the remote fob for some reason.

Maybe your latches need adjustment?

 

[Tdave]

On my car, it takes 3, 4, sometimes 5 presses to open the trunk, for both the inside and key fob buttons. I have a note into Tesla to fix it on the next service call I have. It's been like this since forever and for some reason I've just now realized that maybe it shouldn't be this way.

 

[DaveD]

@bolosky: you should have Carl take a look at it. It's definitely not the normal behavior. Soon after my Roadster was delivered, it started having problems releasing the latch on one side, Carl made an adjustment, and I've not had any problem with it since.

 

[TEG]

Has anyone had the interior trunk release button slide back into the panel, for instance if you pushed it too hard?

 

[dwegmull]

On my roadster, the interior button works great (trunk opens on first press, every time). I have given up on using the remote to open the trunk: between the limited range of the transmitter (technically, it is a receiver issue) and the lack of clear "click" feel of the remote button, I cannot do the double press in a reliable fashion...

If I'm walking up to the car, I typically unlock the doors with remote (to disarm the alarm) and then use the physical lock at the back to unlock the trunk. If I'm about to exit, I pop the trunk using the inside button and then get out.

 

[DrTaras]

My trunk pops from a single press of the interior button. It takes two presses on the remote fob for some reason.

Mine too. The double press was new for 2010 instead of the 2008 one extended press. How do I know that? When I got my 2010 (after totaling my 2008) I kept trying to do the extended press and it was not working so put a call into Tesla to "complain." http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3FnpaWQJO0

As for the original post... make sure that your trunk is not over packed otherwise it will also not open easily, but it does not seem that this is the issue.

Finally, since we are on the trunk issue... BE CAREFUL if it is over packed as then there is not a good water seal on the back and so if you have a lap top loose in the trunk and you are caught in a downpour then you'll be out a few cents to repair it! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6GuEswXOXo

 

[Doug_G]

Mine too. The double press was new for 2010 instead of the 2008 one extended press.

Ahhh... that explains it. The first week I had the car I kept holding the button down, and the fool alarm went off instead of opening the trunk! I even asked Tesla about it and they didn't have an answer for me... I had to figure out the double-click myself by fiddling (and sounding the alarm many times). Someone should update the manual! (And also have a section for the Canadian version, which has a few differences.)

On a related topic, why is it that the alarm goes off if I try to lock the car too quickly? I have to wait a full second after shutting the door or the trunk; otherwise the alarm starts sounding, which is a wee bit annoying. After three months I still do it occasionally.

Doug

 

[beakmeister]

I had the problem of the trunk occasionally not opening on the left side using the key fob and the internal switch. One day it failed to open at all (on the left) after repeated tries, so I slid my hand under (it was open on the right) and pulled the emergency release cord, which also failed to work. The Ford latch had failed mechanically. Fixed under warranty.

 

[Botbldr45]

On "Old 992" the passenger side trunk latch just quit working!! It would open after about 2 miles of driving leaving the trunk latched on one side only. Tried to figure out if it was electrical or mechanical. Suspected key fob at first since trunk only opened with key fob if i was on the drivers side of car (same side as receiver) on pressed hard. inactivated key fob and that did nothing..... two miles and "POP!" Tried to open trunk with key mechanically and found it took a couple tries to get either side to latch ..... didn't try that again!! Heading down to DC store this morning to have Matt look at it. I suspect it's mechanical and just needs adjustment.

Anybody tried to put amber bulbs in rear turn signal sockets .......

 

[tennis_trs]

... Someone should update the manual! ...

The double click is properly documented in the manual for my 2010 2.0 Sport (USA model).

 

[Doug_G]

The double click is properly documented in the manual for my 2010 2.0 Sport (USA model).

I wouldn't say "properly". That behavior is not described in the section "Opening the trunk". You have to find the section "Programmable button". Not exactly the first place you'd look.

 

[tennis_trs]

I wouldn't say "properly". That behavior is not described in the section "Opening the trunk". You have to find the section "Programmable button". Not exactly the first place you'd look.

Yeah, it should be indicated there also. I think I caught it right away in the key Programmable button area since that section is a little more complicated and took a closer read.

 

[bolosky]

I think I said this in another thread, but I did eventually get a resolution to my problem that started this thread. What happened was that the little adjustable stops that keep the trunk from closing too much had somehow come loose and opened too far. As a result, when I closed the trunk the latches were always under tension because it didn't close far enough. Adjusting the stops back to where they were supposed to be resolved it.

 

[TEG]

On "Old 992"...

Funny... I had a LEAF forum open next to TMC, and noticed some similarity: